Settings to print fine details/jewelry with the V2

[moody]

I love the Rostock Max v2 when it comes to printing parts etc. but my wife is asking me to print her some jewelry items from thingiverse and I haven't had to much success. First off, alot of the items only have 4 or five contact points with the bed and it starts building them by literally stacking dots on top of one another. The biggest problem is that the ABS filament that I am using absolutely refuses to hold to the bed with such small contact points and the second or third drop of material ends up catching on the tip and ripping the whole thing off. I have tried blue painters tape, glue-sticks, hairspray, everything fails. I've even slowed down the travel time from 300 to 60 thinking that that might help. so far nothing that I have done works. I'm using ABS with NOZ Temp 230-240 and BED Temp 100-110 ... any and all ideas are welcome. Eventually I plan to upgrade to an all metal tip so that I can use a higher temp material (I think nylon might work better for this sort of thing).

[Qdeathstar]

print with a raft. look into pei longer term and in the mean time you can make some abs juice using a little but of abs and some acetone... dilute and spread.

[Mac The Knife]

Why don't you post a link to an example you're trying to print.

[moody]

Something like this... http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:288182

Anyone have a link to a good Aluminum bed for the Rostock v2 and PEI? I can't find them on the matterhackers site which is where I get most of my stuff.

[TwoTone]

This company has the PEI with adhesive.
http://www.cshyde.com/index.html

I ordered it a little larger to give me a little wiggle room when laying it down.

Once it's down you can run a sharp razor around the edge to trim it off.

This was the part number they gave me. 36-3A-3D-D-12.25 -$11.76/each.
Had it in a few days after ordering it.

If I were to do it again, I'd order 12.5 or 13. Just makes life easier if you don't have to be as careful centering it and trim off the excess.

[Xenocrates]

You'll probably have to get them from different places and assemble them yourself, but heat spreaders can be had from Tricklaser, and the PEI precut with adhesive from CS Hyde, and have a choice of 3 mil. or 10 mil. precut adhesive backed circles. The main differences are cost and resilience between them, but the thickness will effect actual surface temperatures slightly.

I would personally go for the thicker one, as I have had issues with PEI rippling if a heat gun is used (Don't do that, by the way) with thinner sheets, as well as needing to semi-frequently re-sand the bed with a high grit sand paper lightly (wipe twice with 600+ grit) and isopropyl to get things to stick, as it's in a work shop with a large number of other things which could contaminate the bed. In spite of that, I spend less time messing with it than anything else, including bare glass (I found part remove time much higher with both bare glass and gluestick, if I could get them stuck at all). But calibration and temperatures need to be fairly close to make it happy. Once you get there, it's a champ.

[jmpreuss]

Something like this... http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:288182

Anyone have a link to a good Aluminum bed for the Rostock v2 and PEI? I can't find them on the matterhackers site which is where I get most of my stuff.

I don't see how this can be printed without supports, there is about an 85% overhang coming from a barely attached bottom.

[Nylocke]

If you've got a good cooling setup you could do that. I saw a video that Gene posted with his printer doing a 100-150mm bridge damn near perfectly, and most of those overhangs aren't greater than 45 degrees