Calibrating and tuning my new Rostock Max V2

[Fearoflightning]

Hello, I finished building my max yesterday and printed out the peek and layer fan shrouds and a test/benchmark print (the owl). The max is stock except for astrosyn dampers.

I want to optimize the printer now, and will need a bit of guidance doing so. I do have a bit of experience with the makerbot replicator 2 and 2x, (and associated software) but that is it. I will need help interpreting print problems and coming up with solutions since this is my first delta.

I do want to do several upgrades, the main one being the e3d all metal hot end, but I want to get the printer dialed in as-is first.

Also, one question: I have a sneaking suspicion that pla will produce a much better quality print than abs will at this point. Am I correct?

Thanks!

[bvandiepenbos]

What quality issue do you have with the prints you are showing here?

PLA does not warp and split apart at layers like ABS can.

I think PET-G material is better than either.
https://www.seemecnc.com/collections/fi ... -1kg-spool

[Windshadow]

I would recommend that you make your effector (get a $5 spare effector plate here https://www.seemecnc.com/collections/pa ... joint-arms) and hotted combo quick swap with plugs and perhaps a pair of these http://www.themakerhive.com/shop/viewit ... oductid=20 and then you can stay with the stock hotted for ABS and especially PLA and use the E3D hotted for the high temp filaments it was designed for like Nylon and the PETG... I really like the e3d mounts from this chap http://713maker.com/mounts.html

[Fearoflightning]

Could you elaborate more on the PET-G?

Each print is great, except for resolution. I think that it greatly needs a smaller nozzle.

Should I get a smaller nozzle for the seemecnc hot end or just go ahead and upgrade to the e3d v6?

Those mounts look awesome!

[Windshadow]

I will let the real experts comment on the PET-G as I have yet to start on the spool i bought based on the recommendations here on the forum... except to note that the recommended hot end temp for it is too close to the failure temp for the PEEK section of the stock SMC hot end for me to use it except with an all metal hotted like the E3D. Right now I am playing with string trimmer line (Nylon) which is very cheap but it also picks up moisture from the air at this time of year so i have to bake it in a 150f oven before I use it if i have forgotten to put it in an ammo can with desiccant after i use it.

I also must plead ignorance about smaller nozzles as I am still using the ones that came with my equipment...

713maker does amazing work and very high quality parts and I buy from him even though I have my own machine shop as his anodizing is just so pretty

[Fearoflightning]

So an interesting issue has come up...

I tried to print a small millennium falcon model earlier today and noticed that at about the fifth layer it shifted directly over away from the Z axis and continued the rest of the print above that. I also noticed that in the layers view of mattercontrol the layer that started the shift was missing entirely. I immediately attributed that to a software problem.

I went and printed a test part to see if I could get it to repeat and it didn't.

I then tried to print just a straight 20mm cylinder, which then proceeded to shift about a mm the same direction each layer.

I then tried just a straight cube. It printed fine.

Is the problem software? As I mentioned I am using mattercontrol with mostly stock settings.

Thanks!

[Fearoflightning]

I just stopped another print because of the shifting problem. This is getting frustrating. I can't get it to repeat the problem, which leads me to believe that it is a software issue. I will try deleting and reinstalling mattercontrol.

Suggestions?

[IMBoring25]

Almost unheard-of for that to be a software issue. It typically happens when the part curls up and the nozzle snags causing the motors to lose steps, slicer travel speed too high causing missed steps, motor currents set too high or too low, causing overheating or insufficient torque and thus missed steps, loose grub screws on the pulleys allowing slip, incorrect belt tension causing overload or slip, or binding or interference somewhere in the mechanics.

[Fearoflightning]

Well how can I diagnose mine?

Also I just noticed that it seems like my print bed is slightly bowed. It extrudes fine at the edges of the print but pinches off any filament towards the center. How can I fix that problem? Is there a way to account for a bow?

[IMBoring25]

It's just a matter of eliminating possibilities. Check belt tension in accordance with the videos and for evenness. Move the effector around by hand and check for binding. Check the firmware for the current setting you're using. Check if the motors get uncomfortably hot during use. Watch or tape a print and see if the nozzle hits the print.

Being high or low in the middle is adjusted by the procedure in the build manual (paging geneb to the white courtesy phone).

[Fearoflightning]

Ok, time for me to give y'all some actual information:

My belts are tensioned as per the directions, if y'all have any way to put a numerical value to it I'll adjust accordingly.

I went back and and found a video on calibration. It was immensely helpful, as I didn't know that I had to calibrate the z height each iteration. I then calibrated the end stops and noticed that I had to raise the z axis screw by 3mm more than the x and y.

I think that that has something to do with my problem as the print tends to lean away from the Z axis.

Also when I tried another test print it worked well on every side but the Z, where it was too close to the bed and extruded very little.

Also the motors were all very warm, they became uncomfortable after a second or two.

And here's a picture of the underside of the print to show the shift:

[noventix]

Cool to see you just got your Max V2 running - there is little as satisfying as seeing that first print. As someone who is fairly new to this printer as well, I would offer some advice. Wait to upgrade.

Like many people here, I really wanted to try some upgrades. I figured I was experienced enough after about 200 hours of printing to try them out. Candidly - I was wrong. Gene has done an amazing job with the manual, and this printer works so well after the initial build that it is easy to take it for granted. Changes introduce new complexity that you need to know how to troubleshoot.

I love tinkering and building, so don't mind that the rebuild process has taken so long (6 weeks now!). But I know if I had been more experienced with the printer before upgrading this would have been much easier.

And I am not the first to offer this advice. In fact, I have read this from several of our experts here but chose to ignore it. The Max V2 is an amazing printer out of the box. Use it and enjoy it for a while before you upgrade it. How long? I would say until you feel you can troubleshoot any problem comfortably.

[Fearoflightning]

Words of wisdom:)

After the trouble that I've had with it today I completely agree....

[CodonExe]

Ok, time for me to give y'all some actual information:

My belts are tensioned as per the directions, if y'all have any way to put a numerical value to it I'll adjust accordingly.

I went back and and found a video on calibration. It was immensely helpful, as I didn't know that I had to calibrate the z height each iteration. I then calibrated the end stops and noticed that I had to raise the z axis screw by 3mm more than the x and y.

I think that that has something to do with my problem as the print tends to lean away from the Z axis.

Also when I tried another test print it worked well on every side but the Z, where it was too close to the bed and extruded very little.

Also the motors were all very warm, they became uncomfortable after a second or two.

And here's a picture of the underside of the print to show the shift:

I recommend you double check your motor current settings. Your motors should not be uncomfortably warm.

Also, verify your X, Y, Z aluminum extrusions are perfectly set in the base/top and all the way seated to the stop screw. I would also disassemble the heated bed assembly make sure all is clean and it remounts perfectly. (3mm or more difference on your end stops is substantial)

Perform another calibration after your axis and heated bed is verified/adjusted, you may have to perform this multiple times (at least I did)

That's my 2 cents.

[Fearoflightning]

I did a thorough check of the printers construction today and found the problem. The gear on the Z stepper was slightly loose. I must have missed the flat spot on the shaft.

After a good bit of recalibration (screw problem fixed) print quality improved greatly, however the steppers still get pretty warm.....

How do I check the stepper current?

[CodonExe]

page 13 of the "Rostock MAX v2 User's Guide" found here: http://download.seemecnc.com/rostockmax ... dition.pdf

This will show you how to adjust your motor current

[Xenocrates]

Stepper current is usually set in the firmware. you're looking for the line

#define MOTOR_CURRENT

I have mine set at 155,155,155,165. Reducing the numbers should lower your temperature. However, this reduces your available torque (And thus your available jerk/acceleration) somewhat. I would dial it back enough that you're comfortable, however it seems that the issue wasn't related to motor current at all. Steppers will get somewhat warm. You have two options from what I can see. Either cool them better (Heatsink, fan, waterblock. Doesn't matter much which), or reduce the power which reduces torque/performance. You don't need the utmost out of them though. So if you're not going to try for maximum speeds, you don't need to worry about it much.