Considering a Max Metal, but would like to make it black.

[d1rron]

I was just wonder what would be the best, and most cost-efficient, way to make a Max Metal frame black -- or if it's even feasible without spending a ton. I know it's really not ultimately important, but if I'm going to rebuild my Rostock I'd like to make it as nice to look at as I can in the process. The only things I can think of are anodizing or powder coating, both of which sound pricey. Is there no way to do it without spending a ton?

Thanks for any advice!

[ccavanaugh]

I was just wonder what would be the best, and most cost-efficient, way to make a Max Metal frame black -- or if it's even feasible without spending a ton. I know it's really not ultimately important, but if I'm going to rebuild my Rostock I'd like to make it as nice to look at as I can in the process. The only things I can think of are anodizing or powder coating, both of which sound pricey. Is there no way to do it without spending a ton?

Thanks for any advice!

You can purchase a frame and an anodizing shop could strip the existing clear and re-anodize black. Sometimes the results can be a bit hit or miss and it will reduce the overall width by .002 - .003" depending on how thick the original was and how aggressive the shop is. If you are not in a hurry, they may be able to slip it in with another job and reduce cost a bit. Most shops have a tank at ready for black anodize.

[Jimustanguitar]

Contact Trick Laser and see what Brian would charge to mill it out of stock that's already anodized.

[mhackney]

Powder coating is actually not that expensive BUT you would probably not be able to use the stock carriages "wheel in slot". If you are going to use linear rails it would not be an issue. Anodizing parts like this would be expensive. I believe the raw stock comes in black in which case Brian might be able to make a few sets.

[Xenocrates]

I know that 80/20 sells the stock in black (Assuming it's all standard 1IN T slot), and I remember seeing a Max metal frame with black and yellow components at MRRF (Another color 80/20 sells). I would email Brian and ask about it. There will likely be a cost premium, since 80/20 has one for the stock, and Brian likely does not keep a lot of it on hand, if any, and so would need to do a new order for it. I'm sure that he'll take your money if you want it enough.

[Eaglezsoar]

I know that 80/20 sells the stock in black (Assuming it's all standard 1IN T slot), and I remember seeing a Max metal frame with black and yellow components at MRRF (Another color 80/20 sells). I would email Brian and ask about it. There will likely be a cost premium, since 80/20 has one for the stock, and Brian likely does not keep a lot of it on hand, if any, and so would need to do a new order for it. I'm sure that he'll take your money if you want it enough.

It is 1" stock from 80/20 for the uprights but the cross pieces are in a format that I am not sure who created it. I do feel that purchasing the kit is the best way to go because of all the drilling and milling of the cross pieces.
Any machine shop that does anodizing can strip the clear and redo them in black but as previously mentioned, the thickness tolerance could change. MHackney's idea to have Brian produce a custom kit in black would make the
most sense.

[d1rron]

Thanks for all the replies!

I think I'm just going to pass on having it anodized if it'll screw with the dimensions/accuracy. Also Brian seems like a pretty busy dude and the frames are back-ordered as it is, I don't want to be the guy in the drive thru making an unnecessarily complicated order when there is a big line. I mean if there was more demand than just me I might suggest doing a run of them, but a one off request feels like I'm being a thorn and would probably have to pay more for the custom order than would be worth it.

Thanks again for all of the input!

[jason128]

You would be very unlucky, or have a very rough anodiser if having the existing natural anodising stripped did anything substantial (or even measurable with a vernier) to the dimensions.

the usual process is to soak the anodising overnight in alkaline cleaning solution to soften the existing, then run it through the line as usual.
you would probably loose 0.05mm off the surface, but it would be even, so should not effect anything.


If you want to send it half way round the world, i'd be happy to do it for you

[d1rron]

Hah I can only imagine what that would cost. Just out of curiosity, in what country do you live? And you think it would be a negligible loss? It's admittedly not very important, I just thought it'd be neat to have black Max Metal -- of course I can make whatever parts I print for it black, so I've got that going for me, which is nice.

[bradjshannon]

You could also spraypaint it, if my googling about is correct. My frame certainly feels paintable.

[d1rron]

I considered that, but I'd imagine the paint would wear off where the trick truck wheels contact the vertical extrusions and may not be properly even with my spray painting ability. Lol

[teoman]

Or vinyl wrap the non important parts. You can go pretty crazy with that stuff. Carbon fiber look?
Also, no harm in asking Brian. Maybe he'll say sure why not, or with the next order in6 months or simply no.

[Jimustanguitar]

Glenn painted the cross pieces yellow for his build. He's been happy with the results.

https://www.facebook.com/themakerhive/v ... permPage=1" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I checked with Brian, and he doesn't think that the rectangular extrusions are available in black.

[d1rron]

Now that you mention it, I suppose I'd only really care about the towers being black anyway since I can paint the rest without it affecting anything. Thanks for the link, That thing looks awesome!

[JFettig]

Stripping the anodizing will make everything smaller by the thickness of the anodizing. Re-anodizing will grow some back, but not more than .001" per side unless you ask for more - then it might be a custom batch. It still looks good stripped and re-anodized. I've done it many times.

[bob64]

Not sure if the part number listed on the metal max description is incorrect or not because part 1003 goes to a completely different dimension profile but going by the dimensions ... i found a black version of the part I think he's using?
https://8020.net/shop/2012-black-fb.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

edit: looks like he mixed up the part numbers on the page. So yeah, they do make a black version.

[d1rron]

Oh, no kidding! Nice! I may have to inquire about that then.

[d1rron]

I sent Brian a PM, I'll update with what he says in case anyone is curious about this in the future.

[d1rron]

So they don't offer the same extrusions in black (with one side closed) and the other pieces would be special order so he's not interested in offering a black version. I can't say I blame him with it being backordered as it is. Thanks for all of the replies!

[bob64]

https://8020.net/shop/1003-black-fb.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Welllll technically they do offer it, but I guess the special order part would still suck. I mean look at the diagram, 3 sides open, 1 closed.

[dchauran]

I'd look at cerakote as another option. It's meant for firearms use, so it's pretty wear resistant, and it's only 1-2 mils thick. The blasting to prep the surface should be enough to compensate for that 1-2 mils.