HUGE FAIL - had to disconnect nozzle

[TFMike]

Yellow jack boards? EDIT: makerhive board, what a brain lapse on my part

I went ahead and got some jst connectors off of ebay, I totally forgot about those. Is there a link to a thread that discusses managing firmware for quick swap hot ends across different types of printers as well?

[KAS]

I don't think so. Just setup the firmware once with the correct values, then copy the directory two times and name it to match hotend.

Make sure you use repetier host to export the EEPROM each time you setup the hotend. Then you can import it when you change the hotends over.

Might be simpler ways to do it, but that what I started to do.

[TFMike]

So today I swapped out the original hot end for the e3d last night, turned the printer back on and it homed correctly and everything but the bed and hot end temps read def/0 and bdef/0 on the display. Is this related to a hardware or softwar issue? Anyone know?

[Polygonhell]

You probably have a loose connection on the Hotend thermistor.
The display reads def if either the Hotend thermistor, or bed thermistor read outside the expected range. In practice this means a short or an open circuit, though misconfigured firmware can do it.

[TFMike]

You probably have a loose connection on the Hotend thermistor.
The display reads def if either the Hotend thermistor, or bed thermistor read outside the expected range. In practice this means a short or an open circuit, though misconfigured firmware can do it.

So the best course of action would be to remvoe the crimped ferrules and just twist the thermistor into place and then electrical tape it? If that fails is there more info anywhere on messing with the firmware and eeprom settings? I am not the best with this sort of thing unfortunately.

[Polygonhell]

I would probably start at the board and measure the thermistor resistance, then work back to the various likely bad connection points.

I actually find the ferrules to be pretty good in terms of making a connection, I used to solder mine, and use Kapton to keep them electrically isolated, the important part is they aren't shorted and you have a good connection.

It's also pretty easy to plug the thermistor connector into the wrong socket upon the RAMBO.

[TFMike]

I had the e3d volcano on my orion but it is way too imprecise for my needs currently - I thought I could get away with just switching out the nozzle for one that was a smaller size but that isn't going to work either. So now I am back to where I started with a fully functional Orion with its effector head and nozzle scattered about - I really need to add quick connects to it and I got some from here: http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-st ... ads/1.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

However, the colors on the connector leads are: Black, Green, Yellow and Red

the colors on the on the hot end wires are: Green (white?), Red, Black and White

I doubt it would be wise to simply connect the black to black and the red to red, should I just go like this?

BLACK - GREEN

Green . Red

Yellow - Black

Red - White ?

Keep in mind I have limited soldering ability but I can get the job done if need be, I'd just like to have some input from some of the more knowledgeable people around here before diving into this. I also have JST connectors for the fans as well. I am thinking of just using JST connectors for everything here, would that be easier or harder?

EDIT: If someone could make a dummies guide for me I would really, appreciate it. I am looking at the guide on page 269 here http://download.seemecnc.com/rostockmax ... -Guide.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
but I am still unsure of myself.

[KAS]

The v2 uses Red/Black for the hotend heating resistor and Green/White for the thermistor per manual.

I would expect the Orion to be the same, although I'm not sure.

When you removed the original did you leave a little extra wire to work with?

maybe something like this:

Hotend:black ->connector:black->main wire harness:black
Hotend:red ->connector:red->main wire harness:red
thermistor:green ->connector:blue->main wire harness:green ( the picture on that link looked blue?)
thermistor:white ->connector:yellow->main wire harness:white


EC3 would be fine and probably better for the hotend power, just make sure you don't mix up the connectors.

[KAS]

actually 22ga might be a tad undersized come to think about it for the hotend.


If you want to go high tech pickup one of these: http://www.themakerhive.com/shop/viewit ... oductid=20" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[TFMike]

Here is a picture to better help anyone (and I guess me as well) to understand what I'm working with:

[img]https://i.imgur.com/NgRXPuw.jpg[/img]
Here are the numbered elements:

1. Heating Cartridge BLACK
2. Heating Cartridge RED
3. Thermistor WHITE (used red coated wire to make up for a shortage)
4. Thermistor WHITE (used black coated wire to make up for a shortage)

Now when I look at the guide from the rostock manual, I get very confused and have no clue where to put these wires into the 4 pronged connectors, any help is appreciated. Thanks

[TFMike]

The v2 uses Red/Black for the hotend heating resistor and Green/White for the thermistor per manual.

I would expect the Orion to be the same, although I'm not sure.

When you removed the original did you leave a little extra wire to work with?

Mine are white/white on my Orion, got it November 2013. I was terrified of this day coming ever since I bought it too :/

And no, there wasn't enough extra wire to work with so we used some extra black and white wiring, probably should have grabbed a different color eh? Thanks for the help, I am gonna try to connect all of this and get it working again, wish me luck. The fire extinguisher will be at my side of course....

EDIT: please feel free to laugh but I needed to do this to get my brain around it, me and wires dont get along that well, is this what you would do then KAS?

[KAS]

well as long as you know what wires run to the thermistor, that's all that matters. Polarity doesn't matter in this case, for the heater cartridge or the thermistor. As long as you get those pairs of wires matching throughout your connection, you should be fine.

But, that 4 wire quick release connector you linked about might be to small for the heater cartridge. You should use the "EC3" or Deans connectors. I was wrong when I said JST, getting them mixed up but those are way to small.


[img]http://i482.photobucket.com/albums/rr189/Onuxis/20150323_200150.jpg[/img]

[TFMike]

the 22 gauge wire on these is too small? someone else (Nylocke) recommended them earlier and I thought I would be good to go, what will happen If I try them out? Will they explode or what?

[KAS]

I'll have to let someone else chime in with more electrical experience on these. I was just trying to match the 18ga they are wired with. 22ga may in fact work just fine.

If Nylocke gave the green light, I'm sure you're golden then. You shouldn't have any issues.

[TFMike]

I'll have to let someone else chime in with more electrical experience on these. I was just trying to match the 18ga they are wired with. 22ga may in fact work just fine.

It looks like some of the heavy hitters are reading this so hopefully they weigh in on it and sort this all out.

[Polygonhell]

22Ga sounds light to me, I used to run 18Ga. 22Ga is fine for the thermistor obviously.
Though looking at the chassis wiring rating it should be fine.
If it's too light, the wire itself will get hot, since it becomes a significant part of the resistance of the circuit.

[TFMike]

22Ga sounds light to me, I used to run 18Ga. 22Ga is fine for the thermistor obviously.
Though looking at the chassis wiring rating it should be fine.
If it's too light, the wire itself will get hot, since it becomes a significant part of the resistance of the circuit.

So go ahead and solder it together and just keep eyes on it then? I can goto radio shack here in a bit to get the ec3's if need be. I hate it that my printrbot is going strong and my deltas are sidelined, the cartesians are winning. At least at my house :/

[Nylocke]

Mhackney told me about those ones. He said he uses them all the time. 18 should be adequate for the heater, the wires for the cartridges use it. I'm going to be buying some of those to do a quick swap Kraken/Volcano thing.

[TFMike]

Mhackney told me about those ones. He said he uses them all the time. 18 should be adequate for the heater, the wires for the cartridges use it. I'm going to be buying some of those to do a quick swap Kraken/Volcano thing.

18 or 22? Do I need to pull these crimps out and put new crimps onto 18g wire or am I ok with the 22?

[Nylocke]

I would go with 18. You're putting around 3 amps peak current through the 22 if you do run it, not a super huge amount but I wouldn't trust it personally.

[TFMike]

I would go with 18. You're putting around 3 amps peak current through the 22 if you do run it, not a super huge amount but I wouldn't trust it personally.

Off to radio shack I go :/

[DdeWaard]

Here is what the plastic glob look like which was wrapped around my hot end, No clue how this happened. I had printed two overnight prints with the same settings and same filament no problem at all before I tried this one, I was able to extricate the nozzle from the effector platform but had to cut off the little important things in order to do it, is there a guide on redoing this somewhere for the Orion?

[img]https://i.imgur.com/NEAnkq3.jpg[/img]

Can I ask you what color and from what supplier that peek fan shroud is made of?
I've been looking for something that has the collor of PEEK but is made of ABS/PLA for a while, gives it that "engineering" color

I LOVE the green glob!

[TFMike]

Here is what the plastic glob look like which was wrapped around my hot end, No clue how this happened. I had printed two overnight prints with the same settings and same filament no problem at all before I tried this one, I was able to extricate the nozzle from the effector platform but had to cut off the little important things in order to do it, is there a guide on redoing this somewhere for the Orion?

[img]https://i.imgur.com/NEAnkq3.jpg[/img]

Can I ask you what color and from what supplier that peek fan shroud is made of?
I've been looking for something that has the collor of PEEK but is made of ABS/PLA for a while, gives it that "engineering" color

I LOVE the green glob!

That peek fan holder was the stock one printed by the seemecnc guys when they shipped my orion, I dont even know what material it is, be it PLA or ABS :/



That green glob of ABS you see there has got to be the smoothest ABS print ever with no post processing, right? That baby shines haha.

On a more serious note I got my printer back online last night using these t taps from radio shack for a quick connect quick fix, not ideal but whatever:

ttap.jpg (28.74 KiB) Viewed 13087 times

[TFMike]

Follow up to his mishap:

The other night I felt confident in my newly restored Orion after a few successful ABS prints and decided to go for something larger - a ten hour print with tons of supports. About two hours into it everything seemed to going well. I sat down on the couch and felt asleep for a short time (maybe 15-30 minutes) and got up to check its progress, here is what the lcd temp read: 43/220c. I was horrified and immediately changed the temp to 225 to see if the print could be saved. Alas, it could not but I didn't think anything of it as the heater cartridge immediately climbed back up. Yesterday I decided to edit the firmware to better accommodate the e3d and doing so required me to update from the .83 (I know, I know :/) to the .91 Orion version. I was pretty nervous since I had never messed with the firmware settings before but after uploading it and fiddling with the new LCD configuration everything seemed to be fine. I tested the bed and it heated up fine, tested the hotend and it would not budge....

I guess this is either a firmware issue or a dead heater cartridge. The thermistor does register and climb a bit when I put my finger on it but that's it. If anyone out there has any similar experiences and would like to help me out here I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks in advance

[Nylocke]

Is the output on the RAMBO actually supplying the heater with power? What are your heating settings (PID Max, P, I, D, Max PWM power, etc)?