Diary of a RoStock Max V2 print

[Stevolution]

No, this is one thing I have not tried... the standard hot end.
This is where research before purchasing didn't help me... I thought, 'Ooh, get that upgrade hot end from the start'

The only reason I have held off in the backward step of fitting the stock hot end is all my lovely work making the E3D fit tidy with the cooling fans, led ring etc. But, if it doesn't work... then what the heck.

Its all packed away at the moment. I will probably do what I always do and come back to it in a week or two. Saying that, if anyone does answer the for sale ad... its gone.

[626Pilot]

Possibility: The E3D you received has a screwed up nozzle or some other defect, and when you install the stock hot end, it will work.

Their quality is better now than it was a couple years ago, but it's hardly impossible.

[stonewater]

the only thing my E3DV6 is good for is ABS, it sucks with PLA and PETG. stock hot end is awesome with ABS and PLA, PETG prints close to same temp as ABS so it should work. honestly if you are never going to do other exotic filaments that need temps that would melt the PEEK section, just use the stock hot end. parts are easy to get, and there are a million of them in use.

people don't recommend the cartridge heater on the stock hot end, but I did put one on mine, helped the temp stabilize quickly, it is a 40 watt one. I just put it in one side and filled the other side up with RTV so it would not cool.

Tom C

[barry99705]

All I print anymore is pet-g with my e3d.

[Eaglezsoar]

It is always amazing to me that using the same hotend, one user can print with PETG and the other cannot, even with identical
settings. Quality control at E3D, I doubt it and I truly do not have an answer.

[barry99705]

I did actually have a jam the other day. Wasn't at the hot end though, it was at the cold end! Filament had a bulge in it. Went from 1.75mm to almost 2.5mm within a foot of line. 2.5mm won't fit through the cold end... Other than that, I've never had a jam in the hot end, either with the stock hot end, or the e3dv6, I'm using the ell-cheapo filament from Micro Center.

[JFettig]

the only thing my E3DV6 is good for is ABS, it sucks with PLA and PETG. stock hot end is awesome with ABS and PLA, PETG prints close to same temp as ABS so it should work. honestly if you are never going to do other exotic filaments that need temps that would melt the PEEK section, just use the stock hot end. parts are easy to get, and there are a million of them in use.

people don't recommend the cartridge heater on the stock hot end, but I did put one on mine, helped the temp stabilize quickly, it is a 40 watt one. I just put it in one side and filled the other side up with RTV so it would not cool.

Tom C

E3D prints PETG just fine and by the sounds of it PLA... I haven't printed PLA with mine but I suspect I could if I tried.

[IMBoring25]

I've run a good amount of both through mine, but:

1) I had that machine tuned well on the original hot end before swapping.

2) I had the E3D tuned well on ABS before I tried PLA or PETG.

3) It was not the first hot end I'd assembled.

4) That machine has a geared extruder on it.

[Eaglezsoar]

the only thing my E3DV6 is good for is ABS, it sucks with PLA and PETG. stock hot end is awesome with ABS and PLA, PETG prints close to same temp as ABS so it should work. honestly if you are never going to do other exotic filaments that need temps that would melt the PEEK section, just use the stock hot end. parts are easy to get, and there are a million of them in use.

people don't recommend the cartridge heater on the stock hot end, but I did put one on mine, helped the temp stabilize quickly, it is a 40 watt one. I just put it in one side and filled the other side up with RTV so it would not cool.

Tom C

E3D prints PETG just fine and by the sounds of it PLA... I haven't printed PLA with mine but I suspect I could if I tried.

I was part of the beta testing of the E3D version 6 and I ran many hours of PLA, nylons, ABS and others I don't remember and after
2 weeks of printing with the E3D v6, not one failure of any type. This is why I am so confused at why others are having problems.

[Polygonhell]

Like I said I have two seemingly identical V5's, one prints PLA just fine, the other will jam within seconds at the same settings. Both happily print ABS all day.
The V6 design has less that can be a problem with PLA, but I see enough reports of issues that i don't believe it's an entirely solved problems. It could be to do with end user error and assembly as many here seem to imply, but given my experience with V4 and V5's I tend to believe that at least some of it is manufacturing variance.
Don't get me wrong, I like E3D products, and they've always had stellar support.
I do have a V6 I just haven't tried it with PLA.

[Eaglezsoar]

Like I said I have two seemingly identical V5's, one prints PLA just fine, the other will jam within seconds at the same settings. Both happily print ABS all day.
The V6 design has less that can be a problem with PLA, but I see enough reports of issues that i don't believe it's an entirely solved problems. It could be to do with end user error and assembly as many here seem to imply, but given my experience with V4 and V5's I tend to believe that at least some of it is manufacturing variance.
Don't get me wrong, I like E3D products, and they've always had stellar support.
I do have a V6 I just haven't tried it with PLA.

I also do not rule out manufacturing variance, it is one of the few things that explain why for some it works with all filaments and
for some the exact opposite is true.

[Stevolution]

I have stripped and re-assembled the E3D V6 hot end so many times now. How could you assemble it wrong? I followed their instructions and they seem pretty simple.
I have noticed the nozzle works lose pretty quickly and frequently need tightening up. I know you should re-tighten once its hot after assembly, but mine does 'undo' quite a bit. Then yes.... its going to jam.

Well, PETG is a no go for me... whatever the reason. Its just a pile of oozy melted crap. I think its back to ABS which is all I ever really had any minor success with.
Its packed away again now. It will re-surface when I get my head back in the 'fiddling' frame of mind and don't have so much other stuff to do.

[Nylocke]

It shouldnt be working itself loose, i dont think youre tightening it enough. I typically use a 7mm socket wrench and an adjustable crescent wrench and tighten pretty darn snug. As long are youre careful with torquing it, you should be able to snug it pretty tight without issue

[KAS]

needs to be tightened while it's hot.

[626Pilot]

needs to be tightened while it's hot.

Real hot. 260-280C. I tighten mine down at that temperature and they NEVER come loose.

Also, there needs to be a tiny gap (~1mm) between the flange and the heater block. If the flange contacts the heater block, it'll run like crap. If it's too far from the heater block, it will also run like crap.

[stonewater]

everyone,


looks like the V6 is spotty as far as good prints go. seems like most of op's frustration is with his hotend. I now print only ABS with my V6. considering it is the easiest filament to get right does not suprise me that it works. I just don't have time to dink with a crappy hot end. I know several of you have flogged your v6 into submission. I would be willing to trade mine to someone who could fix it for a bit of cash its only got 50 or 60 hours on it.


both my Robo (hexagon hot end) which has a self leveling script that runs at the front of each print, and my flashforge (proprietary hotend) run all day long. same goes with the stock hotend on my Rostock prints 25 hour prints without a slip up, unless I forget to reload my filament cartesian printers, while having their own set of problems are easier to ge tup and running especially when they come assembled.

I learned a hell of a lot building my rostock, also could have caused a divorce, I tend to be a bit obsessive compulsive about getting things working correctly..... and when there is a giant machine with 2K in parts on it that cannot print a benchy without clogging it can really get inside your head.

I will be buying either a single nozzle polystrooder or a prometheus to replace the v6 when I can afford it. I need to be able to print nylon.

so if you want to give it one more try, put the stock hot end back on, and run thru geneb manual with the stock hotend.


Tom C

[Stevolution]

I tighten it with a hex T-bar wrench, and then re-tighten it once its at about 240 deg. Still works loose after 30+ hours printing. I dare not tighten it more than I do.
Anyway... the V6 is going I think. Its not done me any good so far.

[Stevolution]

I have installed the stock hotend.
What is the Tempsensor type for the Configuration.h file? I cannot find the required type in the setup PDF for the thermistor supplied with the kit?

[barry99705]

I have installed the stock hotend.
What is the Tempsensor type for the Configuration.h file? I cannot find the required type in the setup PDF for the thermistor supplied with the kit?

This is out of the default config.h. Should get you going.

// What type of sensor is used?
// 1 is 100k thermistor (Epcos B57560G0107F000 - RepRap-Fab.org and many other)
// 2 is 200k thermistor
// 3 is mendel-parts thermistor (EPCOS G550)
// 4 is 10k thermistor
// 8 is ATC Semitec 104GT-2
// 5 is userdefined thermistor table 0
// 6 is userdefined thermistor table 1
// 7 is userdefined thermistor table 2
// 50 is userdefined thermistor table 0 for PTC thermistors
// 51 is userdefined thermistor table 0 for PTC thermistors
// 52 is userdefined thermistor table 0 for PTC thermistors
// 60 is AD8494, AD8495, AD8496 or AD8497 (5mV/degC and 1/4 the price of AD595 but only MSOT_08 package)
// 97 Generic thermistor table 1
// 98 Generic thermistor table 2
// 99 Generic thermistor table 3
// 100 is AD595
// 101 is MAX6675
// 102 is MAX31855
#define EXT0_TEMPSENSOR_TYPE 97

[Stevolution]

Thanks Barry

Err... still no idea which thermistor I have however

[Windshadow]

remember that during normal Biz hours (central USA time zone) if you go to any of the Main http://www.seemecnc.com

web pages you will see this in the lower right corner of each page click on it for a web chat with the tech support folks it is much faster and I think better than either email or even a phone call.

Screen Shot 2016-04-26 at 11.56.33 AM.png (10.79 KiB) Viewed 13689 times

I did geneB upgrade of the stock unit using this kit (mine from eBay but now sold on amazon) so the setup selection stayed at 1
http://www.amazon.com/Modular-Thermisto ... r+threaded
$12 well spent but you will need to tap the hole for it on the Stock heater block according to GeneB's how to video on youtube)

Easy to install Hex M3 Stud Thermistor MK2 features:

• High working temperature limit of 280C due to high temp. industrial epoxy resin used.
• 3mm long M3 stud. Use it with M3 threaded holes on heater block.
• Based on EPCOS 100K Thermistor B57560G1104F, see reprap thermistor wiki for more details.
• Temperature rating: -55C ~ +300C
• Connector type: JST 2 pin connector, 2.5mm spacing.
• M3 Stud threaded length: 3mm
• Hex Body length: 6mm
• Length of leads: 55mm

[barry99705]

Thanks Barry

Err... still no idea which thermistor I have however

If it's the one that comes in the kit, it's the one defined in the config. If it's a third party, then no clue.

[Stevolution]

Its the one that came in the kit. However, I am not sure what the heck I am changing or doing.
The instructions don't explain any of this stuff.
I assume I have to re-upload the original default configuration.h file?
Or, can I download it from the printer?

[Xenocrates]

there doesn't appear to be a good way to pull it back off the printer ( The only method I can find involves another Arduino, and I'm not sure it would work with the way the Rambo is designed, since there appears to be a second microprocessor on the USB, which would make reading the memory off the main one hard. I honestly have no idea), so you will have to re-upload it. You are only changing the number for #define EXT0_TEMPSENSOR_TYPE. Look for that line, and replace the number with an 8. (The number after it, not the number in the line here)

[Stevolution]

I downloaded a fresh copy of the Repetier software from the Rostock website, but when I open it in the Arduino editor, it only opens the Repetier.ini file.
None of the others are listed.

I thought the default number for the factory thermistor was 97? Maybe I am wrong.
Should have known it would not be simple!