Cura 14.03 Wow!

[Prozac]

Just wow! I must say after being a new user to 3d printing(Maxv1) having using RH /Slic3r the long wait periods while it exported G-code , down to horrible build structure support option. I decided to venture out and try something else after viewing (http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=5056" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;) which was the same question on my mind. So I download Cura 14.03 did a very little configuration as it started a print , (currently printing parts for http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:16625" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;) The thing scared the crap out of me and I watched it race towards the glass as my finger was on the kill switch , but it landed and layed the PLA perfect flying around at mach speed , lol. Reduce the time by about 50%. Not sure why, I reduce the time in Cura to 30mms and pretty much match the settings I use in Slic3r. I will post some pics and video of the fluid motion , its like printing with spiral vase enabled in SLic3r.

For some F Ning Reason I cant remember or figure out how to embed the video , if someone can enlighten me on this new [youtube] [/youtube] brackets everything Ive tried doesnt work.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fGZ_ULmuxug" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[Prozac]

Well my Sd card reader took a crap , so im running the Cura saved g-code through RH and its seems to be back to slow mode. But when running through the SD card its was moving twice as fast , as can be seen in the video. Im guessing that the speed rate multiplier Feedrate that is set at 50 has something to do with it.

After investigating the SD card reader , it seems it picks up other cards fine but not so on the seemecnc supplied 4g HS SD card , but if I wiggle just right it does. Ill look into further , might just be the housing for the cards , not allowing contact points to meet.

[gajtguy]

After seeing your post, I downloaded Cura and can't wait to try printing some test models.

but alas - it's a work day... Gotta play later on...

[JohnStack]

I like Cura a great deal! I think Simplify3D has better pathing though. God I wish it was less expensive...I bought it but it would help if they made it more accessible...

[Eaglezsoar]

I like Cura a great deal! I think Simplify3D has better pathing though. God I wish it was less expensive...I bought it but it would help if they made it more accessible...

Cura makes Slic3r look like something that was written for the original IBM XT, I use Cura exclusively now and although it also has its problems its print
paths are far more logical than Slic3r.

[Prozac]

What are some of Cura problems atm? , beside that horrible end code which I havent tried to remove yet.

[dgriff]

What are some of Cura problems atm? , beside that horrible end code which I havent tried to remove yet.

Few things I've found:

1. It does some very odd, fast hotend movements at times, which don't seem to have any rhyme or reason, especially as it doesn't seem to be extruding filament as it moves.
2. Wish I could configure z-hop a bit more precisely, sometimes the hotend scrapes across a print when doing rapid moves
3. Would be great to be able to set different slicing parameters for different objects on the same print surface

[Prozac]

Few things I've found:

1. It does some very odd, fast hotend movements at times, which don't seem to have any rhyme or reason, especially as it doesn't seem to be extruding filament as it moves.
2. Wish I could configure z-hop a bit more precisely, sometimes the hotend scrapes across a print when doing rapid moves
3. Would be great to be able to set different slicing parameters for different objects on the same print surface

Yeah I have just notice two occasions the hotend while non printing movement it actually travel to the outside brim Y then to X starting point of next layer , not that its a major deal but im not having the scaping across the print while travel.

When I was having a problem with it scraping across the print , I just adapted by after the first layer printed I would disable the bed heat allowing it to retract/shrink as it prints , but probally wouldnt work with ABS that well....Pop Snackle crack!

Still learning , tried to print a Torque twisted vase , PLA , no layer fan , and at the speed of travel layers began not to stick, I did notice the Minimal Layer Time option but havent had the chance to fiddle with it. Currently printing 5 small pieces and although its moving really fast , its doing a great job.

pics to come

[Polygonhell]

Biggest issue is that Z-Hop is limited to moves with retraction, this is an issue because Cura uses a "comb" algorithm, i.e. it follows perimeters in order to avoid crossing perimeters inside of an island. This can result in 2 distinct issues, the first is the hotend tearing small perimeters in the first layer off the bed as it zooms past them, the second is on lower layers where there tends to be too much plastic, the head hits the print as it moves over the infill.

Also on my annoyances list, support is very limited and bridging also seems to be crap in the current build.

[Prozac]

Biggest issue is that Z-Hop is limited to moves with retraction, this is an issue because Cura uses a "comb" algorithm, i.e. it follows perimeters in order to avoid crossing perimeters inside of an island. This can result in 2 distinct issues, the first is the hotend tearing small perimeters in the first layer off the bed as it zooms past them, the second is on lower layers where there tends to be too much plastic, the head hits the print as it moves over the infill.

Also on my annoyances list, support is very limited and bridging also seems to be crap in the current build.

All that makes alot of sense after watching it print now over 7 things. One thing I have always done , was watch the start of the print and cleaning the first part which seems to fail due to filament temp and adhesion (I use a large diameter piece of skirt from previous print sliding in and removing the beginning curl / build up on nozzle / or lift off bed) I due the same when using Cura , I beleave like you said on small objects / footprints , the very start of flow doesnt seat properly and gets hit by the nozzle lifting it.

With that said , I am only experiencing the hotend tearing into the very start of the print and causing lift on certain corner pieces , or small circles. Which while printing with a brim and can remove that pieces with a thin tool (4 inch skirt) without effecting the print , being that the brim of Item or items is always printed first.

Also all the things you described Polygonhell sounds also like a filament measurement /average could also benefit from.

[Prozac]

Btw Polygonhell have you messed with the Minimal Layer TIme setting , think also could be a solution to these problems.

Heres some pictures!

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v129/ProZaC333/DSC04548_zpsba434e74.jpg[/img]

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v129/ProZaC333/DSC04547_zpsecd2c8b5.jpg[/img]

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v129/ProZaC333/DSC04546_zps8a37712c.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v129/ProZaC333/DSC04545_zpsc9424192.jpg[/img]

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v129/ProZaC333/DSC04544_zps4423c21d.jpg[/img]

This is a vase I printed using RH/Slic3r , Going to print a Cura comparison.
[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v129/ProZaC333/DSC043261_zpsa19172b1.jpg[/img]

[Prozac]

Heres a live feed the the Cura vs Slic3r! Now that I think about it would be nice to have two printers competing on the same object , printers , slicers, all that.

http://www.ustream.tv/channel/adventures-n-3d-printing

[Prozac]

So the live stream failed , due to user error. But the print continues , When I originally attempted to print the spiral vase , print speeds were way to high , which I should have known , being a thin wall object / no layer fan.

Kinda jump the gun , starting with the Minimal Layer Time (MLT) which I took from the factory setting 5 to a whopping 30 and added a base fan , the print is looking good maybe not as good (well see final product). In slic3r I used the spiral vase setting and in cura im using the similar settings , Spiralize outer contour. At the 30 MLT time , it seems to be exact with SLic3r at the same 30ms base setting.

As I glance over its looking pretty damn good!

Will post result soon!

(A little thought)
When I think about it , there is so many factors at play , heat , speed , cooling , extrusion , slicer , filament . And yet filament can be the biggest issue , like say the end of the spool / the beginning . Consistency is the overall word im looking for.

[Prozac]

Well doesnt look quite as good , but with some tweaking im sure I can get there , I am also using the stock arms. Going to upgrade to the CF arms /helm joint , or is the magnetic system better?

Heres some pictures , the print stopped for some reason at 75% last night. Which ive experianced 3-4 times when using SLic3r.


[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v129/ProZaC333/DSC04564_zps0dfb6a33.jpg[/img]

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v129/ProZaC333/DSC04564_zps0dfb6a33.jpg[/img]

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v129/ProZaC333/DSC04565_zpse4ab0823.jpg[/img]

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v129/ProZaC333/DSC04567_zps44d1a01a.jpg[/img]

[Polygonhell]

I still use the original V1 (kick starter) arms and I don't see a reason to upgrade. I have the parts lying around for the magnetic upgrade, but I get great prints now, so I've never bothered going to the effort of putting together a jig so I can make the arms.

The Traxis ballends used on the CF arms tend to have varying degrees of play in them, the general solution to this is to use rubber bands to preload the arms against the balls, I'm not completely clear on exactly how this affects the geometry, I suspect if you have bearings with a lot of play on some of the joints it can introduce enough variation on effective arm length to introduce motion errors. Having said that, it's the approach used by the original Rostock and the Kossel variants quite successfully, so maybe I'm over thinking it.

People seem to get great prints with any of the arm options, I personally wouldn't bother replacing them unless you think they are impacting print quality.

[Prozac]

Guess I should save my money , cause I dont see any major issues from play at the joints.

Currently printing another Vase , http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:104694 and streaming for those who want to check in. More testing with Cura setting minimal time travel , one thing I think would benefit Cura would be the skirt , would allow for what crap at the start to be expelled out while skirting, though you could accomplish the same with a wider brim with.

[Tinyhead]

That purple looks awesome. I'm going to have to get a roll like that on my next order. The prints look really nice too. I've used Cura exclusively for a bit now and I love it compared to Slic3r. I had some issues with 14.03 though and went back to the 14.02RC2. Small circles, such as screw holes, were very problematic. The printer would slow to a crawl and shudder trying to maneuver the geometry of the circle and it would over-extrude like crazy. I used it once, tried changing the settings and when that didn't fix it, went right back to 14.02. Never had a problem with it, so I'm just sticking with it for the moment.

[Prozac]

Yeah think I will always try to keep some of that purple. I have notice while printing with ABS now that it is seeming to extrude to much for first layer , nothing to major , just needs proper filament diameter probally.

Here some pictures of the ABS vase I printed , would have took 4 + hours with SLic3r and only took 1 hr 45 mins. Says it weight 38grams , actual weight was 28 gram.

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v129/ProZaC333/DSC04587_zps6b5d2a1b.jpg[/img]

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v129/ProZaC333/DSC04598_zpscd0c290b.jpg[/img]

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v129/ProZaC333/DSC04603_zps025a6b1a.jpg[/img]

[Prozac]

Okay been struggling a little when I transitioned from Pla to Abs , started getting the scraping across the print , extruding to much filament and minor others. I adjusted the layer height down to .1 , retraction speed 30 ,Intial layer thickness 3 , and expert settings Z -hop when retracting .075 , Brim 5mm or more seems better but a waste if not needed.
I tried unchecking Fix horrible Combine Everthing (Type A) with horrible results. Also all test were done with both using SD card and RH. Getting better results with RH disconnected.

Heres two vase , I printed straight on Blue tape. Worked fine , took 1 hr 45 mins instead of 4 hours +
[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v129/ProZaC333/DSC04604_zpsa01556b8.jpg[/img]

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v129/ProZaC333/DSC04607_zps3c392518.jpg[/img]

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v129/ProZaC333/DSC04608_zps057be0d4.jpg[/img]

Currently printing upper Radiator support mounts for my 89 240sx -Sr20det ..
Heres what I modeled up.
[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v129/ProZaC333/raduppersupport_zps05d9e9c8.jpg[/img]


Since you dont want any extremely solid mount for an aluminium radiator tab. I hopefully create a little flex. Previous ones I made years ago out of scrap off the bumper.

[Eaglezsoar]

The green vase looks more "finished" but the purple seems to just look better because of its color and the way it shines.

[Prozac]

The green vase looks more "finished" but the purple seems to just look better because of its color and the way it shines.

I agree.

Here some images of the Radiator support. And my car.
[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v129/ProZaC333/DSC04618_zpse11797aa.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v129/ProZaC333/DSC04617_zps1a1b1f6b.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v129/ProZaC333/DSC04619_zps5e53a184.jpg[/img]

[Eaglezsoar]

Printing vases, toys, etc is neat but when you can print parts for your car is when you realize that it is all worthwhile.
Good job in even thinking of making parts like those!

[caseythehost]

I've been wanting to move to Cura, but the settings intimidated me a little. I'm just not happy with Slic3r. Might have to try to tackle it again.

Also, how do you get that first layer support on the bottom of the right green vase? I could use that on a couple of my designs.

[Prozac]

Also, how do you get that first layer support on the bottom of the right green vase? I could use that on a couple of my designs.

I just use a wide brim for 1st layer adhesion / bluetape / gluestick / or elmers sprays adhesive for large flat surface prints.