Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

I'm looking to upgrade (again) my Rostock Max V1. I'm not even sure I should still refer to it as a V1 though since about the only thing left from the original is the chassis and OG servos.

Right now it has:

• Duet controller
  
  E3D V6 hot end
  
  Molded cheapskates
  
  Ball Cup arms
  
  New Power Supply
  
  Servo dampers
  
  EZ Struder (top mounted)

The issue that continues to drive me nuts is all of the fiddling around with the Z height, so I'd like to upgrade to the Smart Effector and let the Duet do the heavy lifting. That means upgrading to the magball arms, which is fine on the effector end of the arms, but I'll need an adapter for the cheapskates to mount the magballs. Is this adapter available somewhere, or do I need to fabricate it?

Why not just use the injection molded arms that SeeMeCNC sells?

g.

Do you mean these?

How do I attach them to the the Delta Smart Effector?

The CTC distance of the balls is 55mm on the DSE vs 50mm on the SeeMeCNC parts.

The CTC distance of the mounting holes on the carriage adapter that comes with the DSE is 20mm vs 24.12mm on the SeeMeCNC molded Cheapskates.

Are those arms compatible with the metal balls the are used with the DSE?

I don't see another way to get there from here aside from what I described, though I'm all ears if you do.

I'm sorry, I wasn't paying close enough attention to what you wrote.

If you go to the SE300 hot end assembly, you get the mounts & delrin "barbells" for mounting the injection molded arms - the PCB on the SE300 is electronically the same as the Duet Smart Effector for the purposes of Z height probing.

g.

So...I went with the SE300. Got it assembled, connected everything up to the Duet, switched on the Duet and...one little blue LED lights up on the SE300 for about 2 seconds and then goes dark. No fans, no LEDs... I'm sure that it's just something dumb that I've done. I've checked the wiring vs the whip wiring diagram and the Duet WiFi diagram. The "always on" connector for the LED has power because when boot with a fan connected to it, the fan spins. I'm flummoxed.

When it's powered up and a tap the nozzle, the blue LED flashes like it should, but that's it

The blue LED should only come on when the strain gauge in the PCB is detecting a force being applied to the nozzle. It may also come on solid when the hot end is active as the magnetic field generated by the heater cartridge confuses the hell out of the strain gauge circuit. (this is ok)

There should be one white LED active on the SE300 when power is applied. Are you seeing that?

The hot end fan is only going to be active when the hot end is hot enough to warrant it - I think it automatically turns on/off at 40C (ish) The layer fans will only be on when commanded to be on.

g.

geneb wrote: ↑Fri Mar 18, 2022 8:28 am The blue LED should only come on when the strain gauge in the PCB is detecting a force being applied to the nozzle. It may also come on solid when the hot end is active as the magnetic field generated by the heater cartridge confuses the hell out of the strain gauge circuit. (this is ok)

There should be one white LED active on the SE300 when power is applied. Are you seeing that?

Thanks!

I don't have the hot end powered up yet, the blue LED only came on when I tapped it.

No white LED. I have it plugged into the "always on" fan terminal. At first I thought I might have had the wire connected to the wrong slot in the 2 wire connector so I switched them. Still no white LED.

I tried to switch on the layer fans via the touchscreen and set them to 100%, but again...nothing

At least the blue LED tells me something is working.

I would re-check your wiring. It would also be a good idea to do a continuity check from each pin in the female header to the corresponding connector on the other end of the cable. I had an SE300 whip with a bad crimp once - it drove me up the wall trying to figure out what had happened.

g.

So I checked a few things:

• Removed the whip entirely and checked the continuity of each wire in the whip and they were all 0 Ohms.

• Connected the whip to the board and checked the voltages at the 10 pin connector between Red/Black and Red/Green. Both were 3.3V

• Busted out my power supply and put 3.3V to the pins on the SE300 where the Red(+) and Green (-) pins would connect and no white LED. I tried the 3.3V on the Red/Orange and Red/Purple pins

Not sure where to go from here. Maybe I got a bad hot end?

I would email support about it.

g.