Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

Thanks!

critical_limit wrote:Hi,

ordered the steelballs mentioned above. Due to I´m in germany I converted all other things to metric.
Hardware is on the way and while I´m waiting for it, I made a effector with metric dimensions and ready for a E3D V6 Hotend.

As soon as I´m at home I will start printing in Nylon (Taulman Bridge). Never tested it, but hope to manage it with my E3D V6 and .25 Nozzle. Otherwise I will print with ABS. Arms will be made of 8mm CFK-Tubes.

Hi Critical,

would you mind sharing the STL files for those?

Thanks

@plasma:

Here are the STL´s.

Endcaps are now for 10mm dia carbon rods, Effector for E3D V6
Inside the Endcaps you can place only magnets with 8mm diameter or smaller if I remember right.

cheers
Dirk

critical_limit wrote:@plasma:

Here are the STL´s.

Endcaps are now for 10mm dia carbon rods, Effector for E3D V6

Effector3.STL

Endcap 10mm.STL

Cheapskate Adapter.STL

Inside the Endcaps you can place only magnets with 8mm diameter or smaller if I remember right.

cheers
Dirk

Thanks a lot.

Tinyhead wrote:I used them for a number of months, but ultimately went to the trick laser arms.

Pros:
Quick changing hot ends (if you have multiple types)
Nice lines as there is virtually zero play

Cons:
Failed prints from effector coming off

20140507_062912.jpg

I had MANY failed prints because of this. If the hot end hit a snag, a lip, or an upturned surface from an overhang or anything.... done. I would often come to my printer in the morning to find a big rats nest of filament and the arms flopping around as the printer was still trying to work.

Great idea in theory, but for me, it wasn't worth the effort. I'm much happier with my trick laser arms.

Tinyhead,

are you using those ring magnets that you put together or the whole cylinder ones that Xnaron specifies?

Fiddler

elqisqeyano wrote:

Broose wrote:

elqisqeyano wrote:Just received my magnets today so I have all the pieces done accept for the carbon fiber tubes I ordered. I did a quick check on the strength off the magnets and the balls, very secure connection. Now just waiting on the tubes. Will post pics once I assemble everything when the tubes come in.

elqisqeyano- Do the magnets fit into your rod ends? Mine fit way too tightly and I had to chase the holes with a drill. Other than that and moving my limit switches because I had them on the other side, the upgrade went pretty easily.

Thanks Xnaron!!!

I was able to insert the magnets by forcibly and lightly tapping then into the cup section 'till they were snug. I figured they would be a bit tight but that is a good thing. Now my ends are perfect ID, after lightly tapping magnets in, for when the tubes get here. Your set up look so good and clean. That print is looking flawless. I will be installing my hot end a bit closer to the effector than your install to try and keep my Z height. I will be using aluminum heat shielding insulated tape. Plus the Fan on the E3D should help keep temps cool enough to not melt the effector. At least I am hoping.

You might want to try and put this on there too. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000QF ... ge_o00_s00" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

This stuff is made for massive heat insulation. I have touched the outside of this wrapped around my hot end and it feels like room temp. Consequently, my hotend heats up really fast and has no problems maintaining temp.

The aluminum tape is made for reflecting IR heat and not for insulation. If you put it in contact with the heat source, it will heat up and start transmitting heat. It is designed to keep things cooler by wrapping it around stuff that you want cold.

I found someone selling excess 3/8 chrome plated steel ball that have a screw base on the Google forum.

I just bought 24 for $28 including shipping... He is still selling them if anyone is looking to do this mod…


https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic ... 85cfVFrFFU" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;[1-25]

On Saturday, June 28, 2014 at 3:56:24 AM UTC-4, Haydn Huntley wrote:
I have been experimenting with them on my printers, and it was almost the same price to have 1000 of these made, as it was to have 50, so I have a lot left over to share with the Delta printer/Maker community!

Is $1 each reasonable enough? ( + $4 shipping. )

These are made out of chrome plated steel (for maximum magnetic strength).
The screw at the base is the usual M3x10.
The ball at the top is 3/8", which is very close to 10mm.
You can use a 10mm socket to easily tighten them without marring the balls...

Tincho85 wrote:Thank you Polygonhell. I need to write it down, so I can process the new data lol

First I need to make the arms exactly the same length, so they can form a perfect parallelogram. I don't want to know what could happen if there is a small variation.
If they end up beign equal to the stock ones... great, if not, change the dimensions in the firmware.

EDIT: To be sure. 269mm should be from each center of the balls right?
[img]https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7649/168 ... 9fa9_n.jpg[/img]


As for the horizontal offset. I might use the value that Xnaron says, print a test cube and see what happens.
Maybe everything will work just fine! If not, I will be back

I have the same question as Tincho's, is the 269mm the dimension I want to have center-center of the balls? Generic Default's response did mention ball center to center, but wanted to double check since xnaron writes 240mm rod length. thanks!

Life with zero backlash. I am excited.

First off wanted to say thanks to everyone who has made the first 3 weeks with my rostock amazing. thanks to Xnaron for this great idea! This was the first mod i did to my printer. also Thanks to Techstorage for pointing me to the google group with the mag arms and premade balls. i just wanted to share my latest design that i will be printing later tonight for this mod, i created a new effector plate that has built in cooling ducts that eliminate the need to worry about clearance issues. it uses 3 blower fans ( these ones http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MJU ... ge_o01_s00) which quite frankly is over kill as they only need to run at about 14% the majority of the time. anyways heres a quick render of it and after ive printed it and tested to make sure this version ( its the 6th version now) work correctly ill be more than happy to share the files if any one else would like to try it out

[img]http://theock.net/images/Rostock/ock_Effector_v6.PNG[/img]
[img]http://theock.net/images/Rostock/ock_Effector_v6-1.PNG[/img]

One last Edit heres a link to a gallery of some of the other previous versions
https://goo.gl/photos/4PfLHMqMHBjkYscK6

Nice! You beat me to it, I've literally got a half drawn effector platform in the works that holds and ducts the air from cooling fans very similarly to your design. Great work.

I'll keep at the design on mine, because it's for traditional axle mounted arms, and a lot of people (myself included) still need those.


*edit* Does that Amazon seller realize that their picture is of a broken fan? I'm pretty sure that one doesn't work.

haha ya i noticed that the wires were pretty much shit in the image as well, luckily the ones they sent me all actually worked.

the0ckid82 wrote:First off wanted to say thanks to everyone who has made the first 3 weeks with my rostock amazing. thanks to Xnaron for this great idea! This was the first mod i did to my printer. also Thanks to Techstorage for pointing me to the google group with the mag arms and premade balls. i just wanted to share my latest design that i will be printing later tonight for this mod, i created a new effector plate that has built in cooling ducts that eliminate the need to worry about clearance issues. it uses 3 blower fans ( these ones http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MJU ... ge_o01_s00) which quite frankly is over kill as they only need to run at about 14% the majority of the time. anyways heres a quick render of it and after ive printed it and tested to make sure this version ( its the 6th version now) work correctly ill be more than happy to share the files if any one else would like to try it out


https://goo.gl/photos/4PfLHMqMHBjkYscK6

It would be great if you posted the stl and a picture of it actually hooked to the arms.

Well Since we're in the spirit of giving, I'll throw out my effector as well. It Doesn't have any cool tricks up it's sleeve. just small light and full of mounting hole options. If i ever stop printing ABS i may do something different.

SEBRET wrote:Well Since we're in the spirit of giving, I'll throw out my effector as well. It Doesn't have any cool tricks up it's sleeve. just small light and full of mounting hole options. If i ever stop printing ABS i may do something different.

Thanks for sharing, those look great!

noishi wrote:

Tincho85 wrote:Thank you Polygonhell. I need to write it down, so I can process the new data lol

First I need to make the arms exactly the same length, so they can form a perfect parallelogram. I don't want to know what could happen if there is a small variation.
If they end up beign equal to the stock ones... great, if not, change the dimensions in the firmware.

EDIT: To be sure. 269mm should be from each center of the balls right?
[img]https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7649/168 ... 9fa9_n.jpg[/img]


As for the horizontal offset. I might use the value that Xnaron says, print a test cube and see what happens.
Maybe everything will work just fine! If not, I will be back

I have the same question as Tincho's, is the 269mm the dimension I want to have center-center of the balls? Generic Default's response did mention ball center to center, but wanted to double check since xnaron writes 240mm rod length. thanks!

Broose wrote:

Eaglezsoar wrote:So basically as long as they are very close to the 278.1 and ALL the same exact length, I should be fine. Thanks for explaining it so I could comprehend. I will build a jig that will guarantee that they are the same length.

278.5 to the ends of the balls. Here are a couple of photos

calipers2.jpg

calipers.jpg

To answer my own question if anyone stumbles across the thread:

Carbon Rod length: 240mm
Center to Center Ball length: 269
Ball end to end length: 278.5 - which is carbon rod (269)+ ball dimeter (9.525)

You seem to have a good understanding of it now. Let us know how it works when you get it all done.

Anybody using the new cheapskates with the mag arms? The holes to mount the magarm holders to the cheapskates are in the wrong places for the new cheapskates.

Fiddler2070 wrote:Anybody using the new cheapskates with the mag arms? The holes to mount the magarm holders to the cheapskates are in the wrong places for the new cheapskates.

I believe most of us just whipped up an adapter. I did this as well but moved to the new ball cup arms rather quickly. I may revisit the magarms soon though

Here's another example. I used the cheapskate.scad from Xnaron's github as the base. You can modify the ball_sep variable from 46 to probably 50 mm without modifying the file further. Right now it's set to 48mm.

I designed and built a new printer based on the mag arms...

Some specs:
- RADDS controller with 0.9deg steppers running 1/32 stepping
- RADDS LCD controller
- build area 280mmx410mm
- seemecnc onyx
- seemecnc exstruder
- e3d v6 hotend
- 9mm gt2 belts
- 2040 and 2020 extrusion
- aluminum corners
- linear rail THK rsr15vm


[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XMFvR1bTCqM[/youtube]

Assembling a v2 version with following specs:

- RADDS controller with 0.9deg steppers running 1/64 stepping using RAPS128 drivers @ 24V
- RADDS LCD controller
- build area 280mmx610mm
- seemecnc onyx
- seemecnc exstruder
- e3d v6 hotend
- 9mm gt2 belts
- 2040 and 2020 extrusion
- aluminum corners
- linear rail MGN15H

Can someone mod the effector from bLITzJoN or Jimustanguitar to be used with Xnarnon's magnetic arms = http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:153055.
My cad skills arent what they used to be 15 years ago.
BTW if all of you are running 3 fans at say 15% why not just design one where one runs a 40mm fan at a higher % and adjust the airpaths diameters to equalize the air pressure.
Save weight and wiring or would that create an imbalance at the effector level.
Figure pick one side and make the fan vertical in front of the hotend fan to assist or above it to cool the filament tube as well, mostly centered to keep its mass between the arms and within the effectors ring.
Vertical like this; http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1792867 but one bigger fan ducted into the effector base, like the upper half of this: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:431310
Just a thought.

critical_limit wrote:@plasma:

Here are the STL´s.

Endcaps are now for 10mm dia carbon rods, Effector for E3D V6

Effector3.STL
Endcap 10mm.STL
Cheapskate Adapter.STL

Inside the Endcaps you can place only magnets with 8mm diameter or smaller if I remember right.

cheers
Dirk

I know this thread is a little old, but I'm working on reviving this and creating a package for the max V2 and V3 configurations. I have two questions. Can you modify the Endcap and remove the inside spacer so that the whole thing is 10mm inside? I have found that it is easier to find 10mm n52 magnets that it is 8mm and smaller. Also I can't make sense of the cheapskate adapter for the injection mold cheapskates. There don't appear to be any mounting holes. Does anyone have a picture of how this mounts of a V2 or V3? I went with the other cheapskates that were available in a previous post. Is there any downside to having longer arms? I'm configuring mine to match the V2 291.06 and I bough 10mm carbon fiber rods that are 280. With the magnets and endcaps it comes in at 298.4. As long as they are all the same and I change my configuration.h I should be good right?

hey
could you help me to find the right magnet for this ball end?