A few new things to share from the HQ
A few new things to share from the HQ
Well guys, been a while since i have had the time to stop and think "MAN, i gotta tell everyone about "x" or "y" but, it happened today! So, here's a few ideas and tips to share with you all.
New Download area - http://download.seemecnc.com
Just putting a place to post all our downloadable stuffs on. The last few weeks/months, reperap.org's servers have been having more problems. With hosting a lot of our files there, it was a problem to say use the wiki, when you couldn't get to it! SO, we're going to try and keep our own stuff updated here first, and the wiki as time/people allow. Remeber, reprap.org and it's wiki are community editable, so if you see something you think needs fixed, have at it, you're supposed to Also, along with that, I'm starting to transition all the seemecnc projects over from my personal github account to github.com/seemecnc I have tons of stuff to clean up, so it's housekeeping at the same time for me hehehehe. If you need something, and don't see it somewhere, lemme know.
NEW REPETIER FIRMWARE:
Yep, that's right, I 'finally' got Repetier Firmware running on the shop machines. It's not that I couldn't, I just wanted to let Polygonhell have all the fun this time Actually, for the longest time, I have thought that Marlin was an easier to use firmware. With EEPROM disabled, it made it easy for me to just explain to everyone how to adjust the firmware settings, and upload. However, with the LCD coming on line with all the Rostock Kits, and more new users starting out in 3D printing with the Rostock MAX's, as well as the obvious better motion control of Repetier's Firmware, I thought it would be easier to support and implement this firmware from the 'factory' instead. As of this moment, we aren't shipping with it yet, but we'll prob. be making the change this week. I have beat up the firmware for a week now, and all in all, I think it's actually easier to tune, and havn't found any major issues. To get started with installing Repetier Firmware, you'll need to make sure you have the most recent version of Arduino, like 1.0.4. Repetier doesn't need the older, hacked versions of arduino to make the LCD work, it just works Once you've got the new arduino downloaded, jump on over to http://download.seemecnc.com and find the link for the RepetierMAX firmware link. Now is a good idea to write down your PID settings and Z_HOME_POS from your old marlin firmware, just to have on hand. Open up the repetier.ino (new versions of arduino use .ino instead of .pde), go to configuration.h, and scroll down to line 98 or so, and look for the PULLEY_TEETH line, and enter your pulley teeth number. If you have an older machine with all aluminum pulleys, they were 15 tooth, if you have newer pulleys with the aluminum hubs, but plastic teeth, they are 20 tooth. Next, go down to line 112, and make sure you enter either 8 (for rambo 1.0 boards) or 16 (for rambo 1.1 and on boards). Next step, line 151 you'll need to set either 292 (for 1.0 boards) or 584 (for 1.1 boards). Lines 220-225 have to do with the PID settings, which you should be able to copy over from your marlin. Just replace the numbers with what was in marlin. TAKE NOTE taht line 176 says
#define EXT0_INVERSE true
This is where you can invert your extruder motor if it turns backwards. Lines 617-619 are where you can reverse your xy and z motors if they run backwards. Now, remembering the Z_HOME_POS from marlin, replace the following lines numbers 354.3. From here on out, you only need to adjust the Z_MAX_LENGTH to set a new z height.
#define X_MAX_LENGTH 354.3
#define Y_MAX_LENGTH 354.3
#define Z_MAX_LENGTH 354.3
Line 684 is where you can adjust your motor currents, and line 709 (PRINTER_RADIUS) is now where you can adjust your delta moves if they are sweeping high/low in the center of the bed, similar to the DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET in the old marlin. That's about it! Now, after you flash the RAMBo with this new firmware, you will have to make the changes mostly in Repetier Host, or on the LCD controller. To do that in Repetier, go to config>eeprom settings, and it will open up a window with all the settings you can adjust right from that window, cool right? Well, 'try' to do your best to enter the same values in your firmware, so you'll know what changes are where at a later date. Also, in the firmware, the settings that are read from eeprom say so, and if it says overriden if eeprom is activated, that means if you change it in the firmware, and reflash, it doesn't mean it will change. You HAVE to do it from the host/LCD, or with manually sending Gcode (more nerdy, uber advanced, but have a shot at it if you're bored) Once you make a change in the host, just close the window. That change will only stay 'active' until you power off the RAMBo UNLESS, if you are happy with the change, send M500 to lock them in, or on the LCD controller you can 'save to eeprom' from the configuration menu.
That's a quick rundown for now. I'll try and do some more documenting of the differences, but it's WAY nicer. The ease of adjusting things from the LCD or repetier host is quite awesome, especially for new users. Less nerd-fu needed in the long run I think, plus Repetier's amazing, firmware/host combo makes some niiiiice prints!
ACCURATE TEMP READINGS:
*** Works with the Repetier Firmware only ***
So, as many, many people have experienced, thermistors have a tolerance, and can even vary outside their tolerance ratings. Different lengths and routing of wires can even influence the results. Also, you have probably learned by now that the temp you print at can have a big impact on print quality as well. So, in order for us all to be able to share our tips and secrets of our successes, we need to be sharing ACCURATE temperature data so we have a more even comparison. In the past, we've kind of just used the method of measuring what our actual is, and comparing it to what the machine 'thinks' it is, and just knowing that, and compensating our gcode etc... for that difference. It's worked, and still does, but to get more people sharing accurate information, lets learn how to eliminate that variable altogether. Here's what you need to do. Using a contact type thermocouple, like what comes with some digital multimeters, heat up your hotend to 200c, and unscrew the nozzle just enough to slip the measuring point in between it and the aluminum. You can just snug the nozzle to allow it to hold the thermocouple in place. Now, take the actual temp reading. If your meter reads in fahrenheit, use the following formula = (Celcius X 9 / 5 +32 = Fahrenheit). Now use the actual and reported temps to figure out if you are reading higher than your actual temp, i.e. Repetier says 200, but your thermocouple says 184 (184 / 200 = 92%) and come up with what percentage you are off. In the example, we are 8% too low. Go ahead and open up Arduino, and open up your firmware. Go down to line ~454, and look for "#define GENERIC_THERM1_BETA 4267" Now, if you are reading 8% too low, then you need to INCREASE the value by 8%, in this case we would change it to 4608. Don't worry about decimals, and don't use them actually, just round up. It's a good idea, just in case you forget, to add comments describing what it origionally was, by adding to the end of the line something like
" #define GENERIC_THERM1_BETA 4608 // default was 4267 " Now, save and upload your firmware to the board. Turn the heats back on to 200c, and check it out. You may need to iterate this once or twice, but it's WELL worth the time spent to get really accurate reading temps!!!
(P.S. in the last 4 machines i've calibrated, they all have been under reporting, and i had to set the beta value to around 4550, so maybe start there)
There's plenty more where that came from, but I think I'll let this soak in for a bit, and let you guys see how it works!
Thanks again everyone, post away all your comments/questions and i'll try to stay on top of this thread for a while.
John Oly
New Download area - http://download.seemecnc.com
Just putting a place to post all our downloadable stuffs on. The last few weeks/months, reperap.org's servers have been having more problems. With hosting a lot of our files there, it was a problem to say use the wiki, when you couldn't get to it! SO, we're going to try and keep our own stuff updated here first, and the wiki as time/people allow. Remeber, reprap.org and it's wiki are community editable, so if you see something you think needs fixed, have at it, you're supposed to Also, along with that, I'm starting to transition all the seemecnc projects over from my personal github account to github.com/seemecnc I have tons of stuff to clean up, so it's housekeeping at the same time for me hehehehe. If you need something, and don't see it somewhere, lemme know.
NEW REPETIER FIRMWARE:
Yep, that's right, I 'finally' got Repetier Firmware running on the shop machines. It's not that I couldn't, I just wanted to let Polygonhell have all the fun this time Actually, for the longest time, I have thought that Marlin was an easier to use firmware. With EEPROM disabled, it made it easy for me to just explain to everyone how to adjust the firmware settings, and upload. However, with the LCD coming on line with all the Rostock Kits, and more new users starting out in 3D printing with the Rostock MAX's, as well as the obvious better motion control of Repetier's Firmware, I thought it would be easier to support and implement this firmware from the 'factory' instead. As of this moment, we aren't shipping with it yet, but we'll prob. be making the change this week. I have beat up the firmware for a week now, and all in all, I think it's actually easier to tune, and havn't found any major issues. To get started with installing Repetier Firmware, you'll need to make sure you have the most recent version of Arduino, like 1.0.4. Repetier doesn't need the older, hacked versions of arduino to make the LCD work, it just works Once you've got the new arduino downloaded, jump on over to http://download.seemecnc.com and find the link for the RepetierMAX firmware link. Now is a good idea to write down your PID settings and Z_HOME_POS from your old marlin firmware, just to have on hand. Open up the repetier.ino (new versions of arduino use .ino instead of .pde), go to configuration.h, and scroll down to line 98 or so, and look for the PULLEY_TEETH line, and enter your pulley teeth number. If you have an older machine with all aluminum pulleys, they were 15 tooth, if you have newer pulleys with the aluminum hubs, but plastic teeth, they are 20 tooth. Next, go down to line 112, and make sure you enter either 8 (for rambo 1.0 boards) or 16 (for rambo 1.1 and on boards). Next step, line 151 you'll need to set either 292 (for 1.0 boards) or 584 (for 1.1 boards). Lines 220-225 have to do with the PID settings, which you should be able to copy over from your marlin. Just replace the numbers with what was in marlin. TAKE NOTE taht line 176 says
#define EXT0_INVERSE true
This is where you can invert your extruder motor if it turns backwards. Lines 617-619 are where you can reverse your xy and z motors if they run backwards. Now, remembering the Z_HOME_POS from marlin, replace the following lines numbers 354.3. From here on out, you only need to adjust the Z_MAX_LENGTH to set a new z height.
#define X_MAX_LENGTH 354.3
#define Y_MAX_LENGTH 354.3
#define Z_MAX_LENGTH 354.3
Line 684 is where you can adjust your motor currents, and line 709 (PRINTER_RADIUS) is now where you can adjust your delta moves if they are sweeping high/low in the center of the bed, similar to the DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET in the old marlin. That's about it! Now, after you flash the RAMBo with this new firmware, you will have to make the changes mostly in Repetier Host, or on the LCD controller. To do that in Repetier, go to config>eeprom settings, and it will open up a window with all the settings you can adjust right from that window, cool right? Well, 'try' to do your best to enter the same values in your firmware, so you'll know what changes are where at a later date. Also, in the firmware, the settings that are read from eeprom say so, and if it says overriden if eeprom is activated, that means if you change it in the firmware, and reflash, it doesn't mean it will change. You HAVE to do it from the host/LCD, or with manually sending Gcode (more nerdy, uber advanced, but have a shot at it if you're bored) Once you make a change in the host, just close the window. That change will only stay 'active' until you power off the RAMBo UNLESS, if you are happy with the change, send M500 to lock them in, or on the LCD controller you can 'save to eeprom' from the configuration menu.
That's a quick rundown for now. I'll try and do some more documenting of the differences, but it's WAY nicer. The ease of adjusting things from the LCD or repetier host is quite awesome, especially for new users. Less nerd-fu needed in the long run I think, plus Repetier's amazing, firmware/host combo makes some niiiiice prints!
ACCURATE TEMP READINGS:
*** Works with the Repetier Firmware only ***
So, as many, many people have experienced, thermistors have a tolerance, and can even vary outside their tolerance ratings. Different lengths and routing of wires can even influence the results. Also, you have probably learned by now that the temp you print at can have a big impact on print quality as well. So, in order for us all to be able to share our tips and secrets of our successes, we need to be sharing ACCURATE temperature data so we have a more even comparison. In the past, we've kind of just used the method of measuring what our actual is, and comparing it to what the machine 'thinks' it is, and just knowing that, and compensating our gcode etc... for that difference. It's worked, and still does, but to get more people sharing accurate information, lets learn how to eliminate that variable altogether. Here's what you need to do. Using a contact type thermocouple, like what comes with some digital multimeters, heat up your hotend to 200c, and unscrew the nozzle just enough to slip the measuring point in between it and the aluminum. You can just snug the nozzle to allow it to hold the thermocouple in place. Now, take the actual temp reading. If your meter reads in fahrenheit, use the following formula = (Celcius X 9 / 5 +32 = Fahrenheit). Now use the actual and reported temps to figure out if you are reading higher than your actual temp, i.e. Repetier says 200, but your thermocouple says 184 (184 / 200 = 92%) and come up with what percentage you are off. In the example, we are 8% too low. Go ahead and open up Arduino, and open up your firmware. Go down to line ~454, and look for "#define GENERIC_THERM1_BETA 4267" Now, if you are reading 8% too low, then you need to INCREASE the value by 8%, in this case we would change it to 4608. Don't worry about decimals, and don't use them actually, just round up. It's a good idea, just in case you forget, to add comments describing what it origionally was, by adding to the end of the line something like
" #define GENERIC_THERM1_BETA 4608 // default was 4267 " Now, save and upload your firmware to the board. Turn the heats back on to 200c, and check it out. You may need to iterate this once or twice, but it's WELL worth the time spent to get really accurate reading temps!!!
(P.S. in the last 4 machines i've calibrated, they all have been under reporting, and i had to set the beta value to around 4550, so maybe start there)
There's plenty more where that came from, but I think I'll let this soak in for a bit, and let you guys see how it works!
Thanks again everyone, post away all your comments/questions and i'll try to stay on top of this thread for a while.
John Oly
Re: A few new things to share from the HQ
is there any difference between yours and polygons repetier firmware?
My rostock build log http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=1228
Re: A few new things to share from the HQ
Cambo,
Not sure, you would have to compare the files, but i would imagine not much more than accel/jerk values, some descriptions etc... He was first to really adopt repetier firmware for deltas, so he's had more 'time on the job' i'd guess than I
Not sure, you would have to compare the files, but i would imagine not much more than accel/jerk values, some descriptions etc... He was first to really adopt repetier firmware for deltas, so he's had more 'time on the job' i'd guess than I
Re: A few new things to share from the HQ
thanks just wondering, thought maybe you might have done some extra tweaking or something.
Last edited by cambo3d on Fri Apr 19, 2013 12:01 pm, edited 1 time in total.
My rostock build log http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=1228
Re: A few new things to share from the HQ
Hi John, Your firmware worked great for me but I do have a question. How to you control the speed from the LCD?
Bill
Bill
Re: A few new things to share from the HQ
Bill, with the new repetier firmware, the speed adjustment is located in Quick Settings>Speed Mul. It's not on the home screen anymore I'll se if i can get it pushed up there
Re: A few new things to share from the HQ
Wow John. Thank you for these instructions. Very much appreciated!
Re: A few new things to share from the HQ
Thanks guys, glad you liked it. I'm trying to learn how to document things better I pretty much assume you all can read my mind at times
Re: A few new things to share from the HQ
Thanks! This was easy to do and very helpful, my hotend is now within .5 degrees C
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Re: A few new things to share from the HQ
Awesome instruction how to calibrate the hot end. Now I have literally identical temperatures on the thermocouple and the thermistor for the hot end. But how do I calibrate this now for the bed? My bed indicates 80°C, measured value us exactly 70°C. Where can I change the Beta for the Bed? It seems that this is a generic value for both the hot end and the bed as well?
Thanks for any help
*John*
Thanks for any help
*John*
Re: A few new things to share from the HQ
I'm working on this as well Johncoffee. Were you able to determine which value is used to calibrate the bed temperature?Johncoffee wrote:Awesome instruction how to calibrate the hot end. Now I have literally identical temperatures on the thermocouple and the thermistor for the hot end. But how do I calibrate this now for the bed? My bed indicates 80°C, measured value us exactly 70°C. Where can I change the Beta for the Bed? It seems that this is a generic value for both the hot end and the bed as well?
Michael
Printers:
Orion
Rostock MAX V2 (x2)
Why YES, It IS Rocket Science!
Orion
Rostock MAX V2 (x2)
Why YES, It IS Rocket Science!
Re: A few new things to share from the HQ
After doing a little research I have learned that the heated bed configuration item which must be changed to accurize the thermistor temperature can be found in the configuration.h file:
Around line 499 you will find:
#define GENERIC_THERM2_BETA 4367
NOTE: the value in your file may be different
Just perform the adjustments outlined by John Oly at the top of this thread and change the values above to adjust the temperature reported by the Rambo board from the bed thermistor.
Good Luck!
Michael
Around line 499 you will find:
#define GENERIC_THERM2_BETA 4367
NOTE: the value in your file may be different
Just perform the adjustments outlined by John Oly at the top of this thread and change the values above to adjust the temperature reported by the Rambo board from the bed thermistor.
Good Luck!
Michael
Printers:
Orion
Rostock MAX V2 (x2)
Why YES, It IS Rocket Science!
Orion
Rostock MAX V2 (x2)
Why YES, It IS Rocket Science!
- Windshadow
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Re: A few new things to share from the HQ
I wonder how many threads from 3 years ago like this one can benefit from a fresh airing. i am a bit confused by parts of it and I wonder if some of the experts here might care to comment on what has changed and how it might affect the advice provided by the OP?
- DeltaCon
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Re: A few new things to share from the HQ
I already took off to the download section to download the .92.9 version but couldn't find it...
I am DeltaCon, I have a delta, my name is Con, I am definitely PRO delta!
Rostock V2 / E3D Volcano / FSR kit / Duet 0.6
PS.: Sorry for the avatar, that's my other hobby!
Rostock V2 / E3D Volcano / FSR kit / Duet 0.6
PS.: Sorry for the avatar, that's my other hobby!
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Re: A few new things to share from the HQ
I think it is at the Repetier Website.DeltaCon wrote:I already took off to the download section to download the .92.9 version but couldn't find it...
“ Do Not Regret Growing Older. It is a Privilege Denied to Many. ”
Re: A few new things to share from the HQ
Shortly after getting my second printer I came to realize that no two printers seemed to show the same temperature as calculated with the thermisors, some as much as 10C different. That got me to wondering if all the sharing of configurations (including temperature) could possibly be useful if temperatures could be that far out.Windshadow wrote:I wonder how many threads from 3 years ago like this one can benefit from a fresh airing. i am a bit confused by parts of it and I wonder if some of the experts here might care to comment on what has changed and how it might affect the advice provided by the OP?
Finding John Oly's thread for accurizing temperature calculations helped me at least ensure that my temperatures are accurate! More experienced minds than mine can explain why but I found that on one of my printers, when the heated bed temp was set at 80C it was in reality only 72C. Critical? Maybe not but it makes me feel better!
This should be required reading, IMHO!
Michael
Printers:
Orion
Rostock MAX V2 (x2)
Why YES, It IS Rocket Science!
Orion
Rostock MAX V2 (x2)
Why YES, It IS Rocket Science!