building wood kit #6

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barnett
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building wood kit #6

Post by barnett »

My sons are 8 & 10 yrs old. They love inventing & building stuff and it’s something we can do together. That’s my excuse for getting a 3d printer, even though I have zero experience with 3d printing or building anything bigger than toy radio kits. My wife’s brother Jake is better at building stuff, so he’s been helping on weekends.

Below is what we’ve done and where we are. Please feel free to ask questions and/or suggest better ways to do it. I'll add some pictures when I get home.

Barnett


prep before weekend 1
  • Inventory items: Labeled almost everything with masking tape and part numbers, resulting in many labeled baby food jars. I didn’t inventory items in the extruder kit & wrapped up melamine wood.
  • There were some missing screws, but Julie rushed them to me and I had them before the weekend.
  • Ordered the silicone adhesive online from Harbor Freight. I wish I had gone to their local store because the shipment took 10 days.
  • My kids broke out all the melamine parts, popped out the little circles & sorted it.
  • Downloaded Repetier, but didn’t even open it.


weekend one
  • Jake and I built the kit following the UStream videos. As I noted on the Indiegogo comments area:
    • I think the Reprap wiki page is correct that it’s easier to install the motors, timing pulleys, idler bearings & power supply before putting on the table.
    • Beware: we got obsessive sanding/filing all plastic holding the u-joints & probably went too far. Ours have almost no friction and possibly the slightest amount of side to side motion in one or two cases.
    • Also I suggest leaving the barbs up on the 4-40 “blind” t-slot nuts that go on the back of the Cheapskate arm plate. Hammer them (gently) if you have to. We regretted flattening the barbs because later when we added the belts, the nuts spun around and wouldn’t grab. It’s hard to reach behind the belt clamps to prevent the spinning.
    • If your Cheapskate arm plates have countersink rings, I would not pop them off in the beginning like all the others because it’s not needed and it defaces the melamine.
    • Those videos were great. Having Steve show us what to do every step of the way was so much easier than trying to use the PDFs.
  • After the videos, things went more slowly.
  • Thought we were missing part 71574 extruder barrel assembly but we had what we needed all along. This remained unresolved until today.


prep before weekend two
  • John posted additional info on Reprap’s Rostock Max wiki page just in time for us. Used that and the Rambo wiki to determine how to connect to the board. Posted questions on the Seemecnc forum and got answers.
  • Also posted a question because the endstop actuator screw hole was too close to the belt clamp. Answer: drill another hole.
  • start building cable extensions for motors (crimping and attaching the connectors)
  • some of these connections failed because I was using leftover solid core wire. Ordered more connectors from Ultimachine and bought stranded wire. Redid motor wire extensions.
  • I also bought some Molex connectors to go between the Rambo and the extruder motor and also the Rambo and the hot end (heat and thermistor). This way I can easily unplug & detach the extruder and hot end.
  • solder end stops & power switch to their wires


weekend two
  • finish wiring of endstops, motors, hot end wires to Rambo; I used sewing thread, a paperclip and gravity to thread through the inside of the t-slot columns. Then I could pull the endstop wires through there.
  • drill new holes for endstop actuator screws
  • replace one non-functioning endstop from a local supplier
  • tighten belts
  • post question to forum on heated bed wiring
  • download Arduino firmware editor util per John’s YouTube video
  • assemble & wire hot end (missing hot end spacer so drilled a hole in one of the popped out melamine circles)
  • assembled hot end and glued in the resistors & thermistor with silicone; no wiring yet
  • At this point, it was Saturday night and I had a party to go to. But we wanted to power up first. Sent a G28 command from Repetier and watched motors home to endstops… a high five moment.


Sunday (yesterday):
  • soldered the hot end connections
  • power up, start calibration per wiki page; but something was slipping. Tightening setscrews on timing pulleys revealed one bad timing pulley where neither setscrew would hold. Retapped setscrew holes for 6-32 and they held.
  • Endstop calibration took several (maybe 8) iterations but worked perfectly. We used a small flat piece of wood to compare distances between nozzle and stickralon plate at center vs at edge near t-slot columns. Then X and Y (no firmware adjustments needed).
  • Test hot end heat & thermistor to 200C. Worked fine.
  • ran filament through extruder; firmware had extruder motor reversed, so fixed with Arduino util and reloaded firmware.
  • We were still confused about extruder barrel assembly and jury rigged something planning to eventually print the part we thought we needed.
  • Still no answer on forum post about heated bed wiring, and we were impatient (Paol’s response [thank you!] came afterward). So we guessed: soldered one + and one – from Rambo heat to Phebe I heat terminals, leaving the extra two heat terminals open. Used silicone to glue thermistor head to the little square marked “sensor” on the heated bed, but did not solder leads to those tiny terminals next to the sensor square; soldered leads to wires running to Rambo. Bed heats but thermistor shows room temp. As Paol suggests, those thermistor leads do need to be soldered to the tiny heated bed terminals next to the “sensor” square. Which I’ll do this week.
  • Went through various settings in Repetier & Slic3R


prep for weekend three (to be done this week)
  • order replacement timing pulley and Onyx heated bed.
  • John Oly set me straight on my extruder barrel assembly confusion so I’ll fix that.
  • Correct the connection between thermistor and Phebe I.
  • fine tune dimensions in Repetier by manually jogging hot end nozzle over heated bed and noting positions
  • assuming that all works, then I’ll try a dry run print of the calibration pyramid; then try an actual run?


weekend three
- install onyx bed

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Eaglezsoar
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Re: building wood kit #6

Post by Eaglezsoar »

Nice writeup.
What are you going to put on top of the Onyx bed?
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barnett
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Re: building wood kit #6

Post by barnett »

Thanks!

I saw the question on Indiegogo. No idea what to put on the onyx bed. Maybe find a way to use the stickralon I have now until something more ideal is available?

Also Repetier thinks the bed is rectangular so I'll have to be careful there.

Any suggestions?

munsiblicious
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Re: building wood kit #6

Post by munsiblicious »

I also have issues with the set screws in my timing pulleys. I think they were tapped to a thread other than M3-.5 because my screws stripped the threads. I'll try retapping them to 6-32 like you did.

barnett
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Re: building wood kit #6

Post by barnett »

If you report the problem, they will send you new timing pulleys. We just didn't want to be stuck waiting for them. As far as I can tell, the new setscrews are working fine.

barnett
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some images

Post by barnett »

I have not connected the thermistor to the heated bed correctly. I think I need to run the thermistor leads through the bottom two tiny holes right next to where the head is mounted under the red glob of silicone. The board connects them to the V+ and OUT (right two) solder terminals. I'll solder my thermistor wires from the Rambo to those terminals.
thermistor not connencted
thermistor not connencted


Here's the Rambo wired up. You can see:
  • colored motor wires at the top
  • thermistors are white wires on left (hot end thermistor on bottom as pictured - closest to power supply wires)
  • endstops are white/black on the right
  • power supply to Rambo is yellow/black on left
  • power to heated bed is red/black on black terminal at the bottom
  • power to hot end resistors is red/black on green terminal at the bottom
rambo as wired
rambo as wired


This is where I put the power switch. My 8yr old labeled on/off for me. Originally I wanted off to be down, but when I soldered the (green/black) wires from power supply they came off the wrong side and would hit the door if I mounted that way. So to me, it's upside down... thus the label.
power switch
power switch


These are just the Molex connectors I put between the extruder wires and the board and also between the hot end (heat and thermistor) wires and the board. Makes it easy to detach.
molex connectors
molex connectors


So here's the extruder barrel assembly. Not much to see, except for some reason it was very confusing to me. This metal part goes wide side up and is tightened against the top most black plastic plate for the extruder (labeled #33 lower extruder mounting plate in the steve's extruder PDF) using the knurled metal thumbscrew (which is like a ring). Simple once I saw a picture, but this took me forever to understand.
extruder barrel assembly
extruder barrel assembly


These last two are just shots of the hot end. The top view shows wire routing and the piece we drilled to stand in for the hot end spacer we couldn't find.
hot end below
hot end below
hot end above
hot end above

johnoly99
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Re: building wood kit #6

Post by johnoly99 »

Barnett. You will need to run a + and - to each of the pads on the phebe heated bed. The two connections are because there is a left and a right 'zone' on the bed, and also if someone was using a 24v power supply, they could wire the bed in series to get the correct resistance.

barnett
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Re: building wood kit #6

Post by barnett »

OK I will make sure the heated bed power wires from the Rambo connect to both sets of heat terminals.

Could you describe the connection of the thermistor there? Or point me to a resource describing how it should be connected?

Thanks!
Barnett

barnett
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Re: building wood kit #6

Post by barnett »


geneb
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Re: building wood kit #6

Post by geneb »

Barnett, I like the idea of using molex connectors as quick-disconnects. I'll have to swipe that idea. Don't be surprised if it shows up in an update to the manual down the road. :)

I'm glad you're finding the manual helpful. I wrote it while simultaneously building my Rostock MAX. The steps for the most part follow Steve's six part video series. Watching those videos will help along with the manual.

g.
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barnett
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Re: building wood kit #6

Post by barnett »

geneb,

I've never been so eager to read an instruction manual in my life. I sort of wish I hadn't already assembled mine because I would have done some things differently now that I've read your manual. I'm even going back and re-doing a couple things per your advice.

I'm such a novice that I don't even know if molex connector is the right terminology. And I should admit I swiped the idea from this photo:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/seemecnc/8048716494/in/photostream/

You mentioned using fishing line to pull the endstop wires through the t-slot towers. I would suggest a little sinker or two on the line.

Barnett

geneb
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Re: building wood kit #6

Post by geneb »

Hehe. I'm glad you like it!

Those connectors are called Molex. "Molex" is a commercial brand that covers a wide range of connector sizes and styles, but they're typically the larger white nylon connectors commonly found in applications that consume a lot of power (appliances, etc).

I doubt that you would be able to find a sinker that could fit in the space available. (You might, I don't know for sure as I haven't been fishing in 30 years. :) ) The 8lb test line I purchased was threaded easily into the tower extrusion.

The Rostock MAX is the first 3D printer I've built (or used, or been in the physical presence of), so I know what you mean by "novice". :D

g.
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JakeCShake
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Re: building wood kit #6

Post by JakeCShake »

Love what you guys supply.....this is an exciting endeavor and you've succeeded with your dream....

barnett
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Re: building wood kit #6

Post by barnett »

Eaglezsoar wrote:What are you going to put on top of the Onyx bed?


Hey Carl,

The answer to your question for now is one layer of blue painter's tape.

Barnett

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