Craftgizmos Rostok MAX

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Craftgizmos
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Craftgizmos Rostok MAX

Post by Craftgizmos »

To follow up on the comment I made on the Indiegogo campaign page about some of my parts not being cut through completely by the laser.

I had trouble with part 68387 (extruder bracket) – upper right corner near outside of sheet didn’t cut through so had to chip away with dremel and x-acto to free it. Same with 68392 (bracket for filament spool), but that one wasn’t as problematic. Builder beyondesign asked for tips about this. Going back over how I went through it, this is my suggestion.

Get all the other parts out of the sheet. Keep some of the masking on both sides of 68387. Carefully remove all the excess waste material - I used a cutter disk on a dremel to nibble from the edge of the sheet to where the cut at the part edge was free. Probably good if you trim the excess around the stuck corner too, maybe leave 1/2". Using the loose 68387 as a template, on the back side where the cut didn't go through, trace and score the cut line with a utility knife or an x-acto around the corner and the cross-shaped slot, the masking on the pieces helps keep them from sliding. I wasn't able to cut through, but I think that scoring helped.

Back to the front side I used the x-acto, with a thin pointy blade, to slowly work my way around the stuck corner on the cut line. At some point I was able to get the MDF to separate from the melamine on the back side and then I continued to just cut through the melamine. I got the slot out first and then worked around the corner. I had to dress the edge with a file to smooth it out.

68392 wasn't as bad, and it was easier since I had done it once.

Used a nailset for small finishing nails to push/pop-out the holes, tab slots. Much easier to hold than a paper clip, it has a some heft which helped the process along.

Hope this helps.

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Re: Craftgizmos Rostok MAX

Post by PartDaddy »

I will replace any defective part for the original purchaser, just email us at [email protected]

If the plastic nylon arms should ever break, email us and I will replace them. If your laser cut parts are not cut through, email a photo. You must send a photo and provide order date / info.

We will provide hassle-free replacement at our option for at least a year. I can not warranty electronics we do not manufacture.

This forum post is not a substitute for our terms and conditions listed on our website.

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Re: Craftgizmos Rostok MAX

Post by Craftgizmos »

Thanks Steve,

I got a message that the few things I'm short are on their way. I'm done with the base up to the idlers. I set the heated bed. A question - why don't you want to have the blind t-nuts for the heated bed grip into the melamine? I figure I'll get the round bed, but why do I have to get up under there again? Can I just set all the blind t-nuts for all the configurations so to change from one size heated bed to another would only be from the top?

I'm having trouble posting pics here - what have I missed?

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I'm Stuck

Post by Craftgizmos »

I'm putting the nine idler assemblies together and the bushings are not easily snapping into the bearings. They are tight and binding and if I push harder they start to get off center. What is the best way to go about getting them together? Or, do I just bang them?

Image

The first one snapped together, the next was binding and I forced it together but then the screw didn't easily slip through so I ran a small diameter round file lightly through the hole a few times and then was able to get the screw to go through.

Anyone have any thoughts?
Last edited by Craftgizmos on Sun Dec 16, 2012 2:13 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: Craftgizmos Rostok MAX

Post by johnoly99 »

Could really use a pic craft, i cant quite picture it.

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Some hours later

Post by Craftgizmos »

FWIW - Then, after a lot of turning the darn thing around, I tried controlled force - I don't have a real vise, but this old wood clamp has often done the job. It gave me the control to keep things parallel while they got squeezed.

I did all the remaining with one bushing -

Image

Then I opened the clamp and squeezed the other bushing onto the assembly, at this point I was able to get the pieces to line up right.

Image

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Re: Craftgizmos Rostok MAX

Post by johnoly99 »

I love those wodden clamps! Used to glue up 100's of stair risers a day with them!

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Re: Craftgizmos Rostok MAX

Post by Craftgizmos »

So, was that a reasonable solution to my problem? I don't have strong hands and need help getting the force to set the bushings into the bearings. I can't seem to find any issue with causing damage. All those idlers spin freely and have been mounted into the tri-supports.

Richard

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Moving Along - snugging up the t-rails

Post by Craftgizmos »

I had a little trouble with getting the t-slot-rails to "seat" so I used a strap clamp to cinch in the vertical t-rails.

I didn't make it super tight, just enough to pull it all in. Did similar up at the top just below the top plate.

Image

Moving along.

Richard - Craftgizmos
Last edited by Craftgizmos on Tue Dec 25, 2012 8:21 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: Craftgizmos Rostok MAX

Post by geneb »

That's a great tip Richard! I wish I'd thought of it! (I ended up using a Jorgensen clamp, doing one tower at a time.)

g.
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Re: Craftgizmos Rostok MAX

Post by Craftgizmos »

Thanks g,

I have found that sometimes I need a couple extra hands, so the strap clamp was handy, and if someone doesn't have one, it is easy to make a loop from strong cord or rope and a stick to make like a tourniquet-like thing that will do the same.

I wound up getting the silicone tape at Kragen/O'Reilly auto parts. Autozone had something similar, but I wasn't sure it was the same thing so I went down a few blocks to Kragen.

You deserve huge kudos for the manual, it has been a great help.

But, there are a couple of things I can't follow/not sure about.

I went to a local electronics supply store and got the LED and resistor. The man at the store didn't recognize T-3/4, he said he thought it meant T-1 3/4, which is what he sold me. Could that be a typo in the manual? What I have looks just like the one on the heated bed in your photo. I wish these had been included in the kit.

Assembly step 18.8 and figure 82 - why does it look like the teeth on the belt are pointing out of the track? FWIW - I wrapped a twisty tie around the end of the belt through the teeth and formed the little wire of the twisty tie into a curve shape and was able to thread that through the tiny slot.

Step 20.5 - you are talking about the heated bed, but the photo figure 98 has a caption of "hot end power connector?"

I'm not sure what you mean in step 22.4 - where I see three pairs of one yellow wire and one black wire in the photo, with each single wire going to one terminal on the connector, I should really have three wires to each connector? So I need 9 yellow and 9 black wires?

Fitting the arms was a pain, my files must be dull, I finally marked each one so I could keep track of which ones I had worked on. Do I want to put anything like a silicone lubricant on the pivot where the arms connects to the u-joints?

What do you think of my concern about the stiff motor?


Kudos,

Richard

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Re: Craftgizmos Rostok MAX

Post by geneb »

Craftgizmos wrote:Thanks g,


You deserve huge kudos for the manual, it has been a great help.

Thanks! I'm glad it helped!

I went to a local electronics supply store and got the LED and resistor. The man at the store didn't recognize T-3/4, he said he thought it meant T-1 3/4, which is what he sold me. Could that be a typo in the manual? What I have looks just like the one on the heated bed in your photo. I wish these had been included in the kit.


Thanks for reminding me about that. It IS a typo and should be a T 1-3/4.

Assembly step 18.8 and figure 82 - why does it look like the teeth on the belt are pointing out of the track? FWIW - I wrapped a twisty tie around the end of the belt through the teeth and formed the little wire of the twisty tie into a curve shape and was able to thread that through the tiny slot.

Good catch! I made a note that the figure was in error and noted what the proper belt orientation was.

Step 20.5 - you are talking about the heated bed, but the photo figure 98 has a caption of "hot end power connector?"

The figure was mis-captioned. Fixed!

I'm not sure what you mean in step 22.4 - where I see three pairs of one yellow wire and one black wire in the photo, with each single wire going to one terminal on the connector, I should really have three wires to each connector? So I need 9 yellow and 9 black wires?

I clarified that - the extra wires only apply to the Heated Bed connection.

Fitting the arms was a pain, my files must be dull, I finally marked each one so I could keep track of which ones I had worked on. Do I want to put anything like a silicone lubricant on the pivot where the arms connects to the u-joints?

Yeah, it's a pain to file those things down, but from what I've heard about other printers, it's a pretty mild annoyance. :)
It's my understanding that they may issue a new arm design that's got the radius in the ends.
What do you think of my concern about the stiff motor?

Ermmm. *sheepish grin* what stiff motor? I don't recall anything about that. :)

g.
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Re: Craftgizmos Rostok MAX

Post by Craftgizmos »

Gene,

I'm not sure what you mean in step 22.4 - where I see three pairs of one yellow wire and one black wire in the photo, with each single wire going to one terminal on the connector, I should really have three wires to each connector? So I need 9 yellow and 9 black wires?

I clarified that - the extra wires only apply to the Heated Bed connection.

I'm still not sure what you mean. Can you explain it a different way? Where do I need the extra wires? Looking at the photos and what other people have done I can't figure it out.

Fitting the arms was a pain, my files must be dull, I finally marked each one so I could keep track of which ones I had worked on. Do I want to put anything like a silicone lubricant on the pivot where the arms connects to the u-joints?

Yeah, it's a pain to file those things down, but from what I've heard about other printers, it's a pretty mild annoyance. :)
It's my understanding that they may issue a new arm design that's got the radius in the ends.

Rounding the corners was easy, I used a Dremel for that, but it was too aggressive on the flat surfaces where they slip over the pin in the u-joint.

What do you think of my concern about the stiff motor?

Ermmm. *sheepish grin* what stiff motor? I don't recall anything about that. :)



The motor question is in Troubleshooting. Why don't I want to turn the motor shaft by hand?

Thanks,

Richard

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Re: Craftgizmos Rostok MAX

Post by geneb »

Yeah, the clarification to step 22.4 got lost when Word decided to go smell the flowers and contemplate its navel. The bit didn't get added back in after I restarted Word. New version is up that should clear it up. If not, yell and I'll tweak 'er again! :)

Yeah, you need to be careful with the sanding bit. :) I actually sanded them very little - I was more concerned with the binding at the Cheapskate & carriage ends.

All DC motors, Steppers included, will act as a generator if you're the one doing the spinning. They actually produce voltage on the input wires. If the stepper motors are plugged into the RAMBo and you go whipping the axes around, you'll destroy the driver chips on the RAMBo. This is because the stepper motors can generate far more power than the driver on the board can handle. This is the only thing I don't like about the RAMBo - if you blow a driver, you have to either replace the whole board or send it out for repair. You don't have the option of just replacing a blown driver board. I learned about this issue when I got my ShopBot. You do NOT want to move that machine around by hand very fast. You blow a driver on that baby and you're out $500 for a driver module.
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Re: Craftgizmos Rostok MAX

Post by Craftgizmos »

I'm still confused - I take these six wires (3 yellow - 3 black)

Image

cut the wires just below the plastic connector and reconnect them to the 6 position black plug with the screw terminals that came in the RAMBo box. Where do the extra wires go? I still only have six wires coming out the power supply. From where to where do the wires go, and where does the extra wire come from?

I understand about the three thin hoses equal one bigger hose, I just can't figure where they go.

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Re: Craftgizmos Rostok MAX

Post by geneb »

You obtain the remainder of the wires from the other connectors on the power supply - typically the four pin molex plugs will have one red, one yellow and two black. As to where they go, it's pretty clear. You place the "triple" bundles on the far right terminals as shown in the photo in the documentation.

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Re: Craftgizmos Rostok MAX

Post by Craftgizmos »

OK, now I've got it. I have one molex with two yellow and two black, I'll use those. That just didn't seem obvious to me.

Thank you,

Richard

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Re: Craftgizmos Rostok MAX

Post by Craftgizmos »

So, this is what I want it to look like?

Image

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Re: Craftgizmos Rostok MAX

Post by geneb »

YES! :D

g.
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Re: Craftgizmos Rostok MAX

Post by Craftgizmos »

HUZZAH !!!! - It didn't explode.

I've got the power connected and have been checking the stepper motors. All mine moved, but they all went down. So, I am swapping the first two pins on the small black plug connector. I just pushed down that little tab and released the connector assembly. To me, that seemed easier than the software fix. So mine are blue, red, green, black. Don't try to make those tiny crimp connections without the special crimping pliers. Gene, I think that should be noted in the manual under needed tools.

I haven't connected the bed, hot end, extruder yet. Since I had to reverse the wiring for the stepper motors for the three axes, I figure I'll have to do the same for the extruder.

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Re: Craftgizmos Rostok MAX

Post by Polygonhell »

It's much easier to do the software fix, you're going to have to change the firmware to set the Z height anyway.
I suspect everyone has the motors moving the wrong way issue.

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Re: Craftgizmos Rostok MAX

Post by geneb »

I didn't specify a crimp tool because I doubt people would want to spend $25-$50 for a tool they may only use on one project. That's also why I didn't drag mine out and use it - I wanted to make sure it was feasible to crimp them using a set of needle nose pliers.

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Re: Craftgizmos Rostok MAX

Post by Polygonhell »

I crimped them with pliers, I don't like the DuPont style connectors because they are a pig to crimp with pliers.
The 0.1mm pitch molex equivalents are much more forgiving, though much more expensive which is likely why Ultimachine went the way they did on Rambo.

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Re: Craftgizmos Rostok MAX

Post by Craftgizmos »

I understand about the cost factor. Mine was about $16.50 including tax, less than scotch, so I didn't think that was too bad. For me it was a big help. Maybe you could put it in as optional? Right now I'm having issues with repetier, I have to make the hotend, and my not knowing enough.

Happy New Year!

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Re: Craftgizmos Rostok MAX

Post by Craftgizmos »

I tried to see if I had gotten everything with the motors and belts right before I had completed the hot end - John says the hot end therrmister wires need to be in place or I'll get an error? Well, so I'm finishing up that part. Does this look OK?

Image

I wrapped the resistors in aluminum foil, and tried to pack it into the chamber as best as I could but it was pretty slippery. I don't understand the difference between the aluminum foil and the RTV. If the thermister is packed into the hot end with RTV why can't that take the place of the aluminum foil? RTV is new to me. So RTV conducts heat but not current?

I glued on some wire with RTV to the thermistorwich to give it some support while I get it into place and connect the wires.

I'm not an ace at this so if something looks amiss let me know.

Richard

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