AlanZ's Rostock v2 build

[AlanZ]

And so it begins...

[Eaglezsoar]

Where have I seen that box before? Just kidding and looking forward to your build log.

[AlanZ]

I just shot video of my workspace setup in my dining room, of the unboxing. Playing with the time lapse camera, all looks good.
My bride is printing out the entire Assembly Guide (4th edition) now, so we have paper to "check off" as we go along, in addition to having it onscreen.
I will try to edit the first videos and get them up before we go ahead.

[Eaglezsoar]

I just shot video of my workspace setup in my dining room, of the unboxing. Playing with the time lapse camera, all looks good.
My bride is printing out the entire Assembly Guide (4th edition) now, so we have paper to "check off" as we go along, in addition to having it onscreen.
I will try to edit the first videos and get them up before we go ahead.

Yes, printing out the manual is a great idea but it does take a lot of paper, when I did mine on a laser I thought it was going to use up all my toner!
I am looking forward to the videos since I don't have much time to watch movies or TV, it seems like most of my available time is used up by 3D stuff.

[AlanZ]

While I am waiting for the workspace/unboxing video to render, it's time to post my first question.

When I ordered the printer from MatterHackers, I also ordered an E3D v6 hot end kit. The question is whether to do the initial build with the stock hot end, get it dialed in, and then "upgrade" to the E3D only after the build is complete and the printer is (hopefully) performing well.

I don't know if doing the initial build with the E3D hot end simplifies, or complicates the calibration/debugging process.

Your thoughts?

[Xenocrates]

Honestly, so long as you have a mount for it (the standard one doesn't work, you need a groove mount, either from SeemeCNC, 713 maker, or printed), it's just as simple to work with.

[AlanZ]

I got a mount for the E3Dv6 from MatterHackers, so I think I have everything I need for it.

[Windshadow]

I just shot video of my workspace setup in my dining room, of the unboxing. Playing with the time lapse camera, all looks good.
My bride is printing out the entire Assembly Guide (4th edition) now, so we have paper to "check off" as we go along, in addition to having it onscreen.
I will try to edit the first videos and get them up before we go ahead.

Yes, printing out the manual is a great idea but it does take a lot of paper, when I did mine on a laser I thought it was going to use up all my toner!
I am looking forward to the videos since I don't have much time to watch movies or TV, it seems like most of my available time is used up by 3D stuff. [/quote

It was vital for me to have a printed manual I at first tried to be 21st century modern man and I had it on my iPad... when I reviewed the first 50 or 60 60 pages over a beer or two on my first stint of assembling i found i had skipped a page or two.

I at once printed out both manuals sections and yes two full sets of ink for my printer or about $60 worth (I should have turned off color printing I guess) and from then on I could checkoff with my sharpie as each item was done its much safer.

I have it on my to do list to take the printouts down to the office supply store to be bound for future use.

[AlanZ]

Here's a little video of the workspace and tools I will use during the build... and the requisite unboxing procedure.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e_ZKE3VN_pc[/youtube]

Here is a link to the video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e_ZKE3VN_pc

[Windshadow]

Kas explained using the youtube tag here to me
http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... 383#p82532" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[AlanZ]

I just had to remove the 's' from https, then it worked

[Eaglezsoar]

Great job on the first video. It is always nice when the camera isn't jumping around like it's in a minor earthquake.
Yours was nice and steady.

[AlanZ]

Thanks, the overview was simply handheld using my iPhone. I switched over to the Nikon P7700 for the unboxing scenes.
Normally, when I am doing teaching/demonstration videos, I record without any narration, and add the voiceover later... a much more controlled and professional result.
For this series, because it's just build progress and notes, I may continue to use the camera's microphone, but I am toying with the idea of using one of my headset microphones (either wired or wireless). I will do some testing in the morning.

[AlanZ]

Made some good progress today.
All of the laser cut melamine parts have been separated and painted.
I sprayed shellac onto the part edges to reduce the paint absorption.
I used primer on the edges of the four largest pieces, because their edges are painted silver metallic.
The edges on all of the other pieces are semi gloss black.

The stock hot end is assembled, and waiting for the RTV to cure
The power supply is wired (the PSU's terminal orientation is 90degrees with respect to the assembly manual photo, but I don't expect any issues)
I wired the Onxy plate... No issues thanks to my trusty Hakko soldering station and lots of kapton tape

That's enough for one day.
Tomorrow begins with installing the gears on the stepper motors. I have to check to see if the gear position has to be moved out a bit before locking the grub screws, to compensate for the isolators that I am installing.

[barry99705]

Made some good progress today.
All of the laser cut melamine parts have been separated and painted.
I sprayed shellac onto the part edges to reduce the paint absorption.
I used primer on the edges of the four largest pieces, because their edges are painted silver metallic.
The edges on all of the other pieces are semi gloss black.

The stock hot end is assembled, and waiting for the RTV to cure
The power supply is wired (the PSU's terminal orientation is 90degrees with respect to the assembly manual photo, but I don't expect any issues)
I wired the Onxy plate... No issues thanks to my trusty Hakko soldering station and lots of kapton tape

That's enough for one day.
Tomorrow begins with installing the gears on the stepper motors. I have to check to see if the gear position has to be moved out a bit before locking the grub screws, to compensate for the isolators that I am installing.

Yep, they'll need to be pushed out the thickness of your isolators. I've got a set in the mail right now.

[AlanZ]

More progress.

Got all of the protective paper removed from the laser cut parts.
Mounted the gears onto the stepper motors, extending the gears out to compensate for the Astrosyn damper thickness.
Started assembling the base
Installed the power supply, connectors, switch, fan and side panel.
Began assembling the tower supports.
I got the bearings installed into their sleeves (with the help of a tapered dowel and a small hammer to tap the bearings in carefully... I didn't bother using my arbor press)
Then I hit a little roadblock, that I will unblock in the morning.

The Astrosyn dampers don't come with any instructions. I noticed on each damper, there are two tapped holes, and two slightly larger holes.
At first I thought "ah, I need longer screws to go through the melamine and the damper an into the motor"
I had some longer screws in my shop, and started to install four into the first motor.
It then occurred to me that I didn't know which was the correct orientation of the holes, and more importantly, that tightening the longer screws would compress the rubber in the mount.
This didn't seem right.

SeeMeCNC forums to the rescue. A search of the forum found a discussion thread, and now I understand how the dampers are to be mounted, and it makes perfect sense.
For those who have not already installed them.
The plate with the larger screw holes sits against the motor. The motor nestles nicely in the close fitting center hole of that plate.
Only *two* screws attach that plate to the motor. This is my temporary roadblock, I need shorter screws than the M3-10mm that ship with the machine's kit (I likely need M3-5 or shorter).
Then *two* stock M3-10mm screws go through the melamine and into the threaded holes on the AstroSyn damper.

This way, there is no direct connection between the motor and the melamine... it's got rubber in the middle.

So now it makes sense, and I will pick up some shorter screws in the morning, and continue the build.

I am continuing to shoot video footage of the build, and will put together a highlight video when I am done building.

Here's the base so far

Time to pack it in for the evening.

[AlanZ]

There's a photo in this datasheet from the AstroSyn web site that shows the two screws holding the vibration damper.

http://www.astrosyn.com/shopimages/tech ... asheet.pdf

[AlanZ]

I suggest adding some text to sections 6.7A and 6.7B that explain the difference in the tower mount assembly.
It appears that the two sections differ only in the way the idler bearings are put together. My parts include the bearing sleeves and the idler spacers, so 6.7A appears applicable to my build.
I didn't realize that 6.7B seems to be an earlier configuration that likely was for the previous CheapSkate parts (the spacers are called CheapSkate spacers and are of a different shape than what I received)
So some notes about who should use which procedure might eliminate some headscratching. Perhaps this was noted somewhere earlier in the manual, but if it was, it must have fallen out of my brain, and there was a big deja vu moment when I started reading 6.7B !!

[barry99705]

I suggest adding some text to sections 6.7A and 6.7B that explain the difference in the tower mount assembly.
It appears that the two sections differ only in the way the idler bearings are put together. My parts include the bearing sleeves and the idler spacers, so 6.7A appears applicable to my build.
I didn't realize that 6.7B seems to be an earlier configuration that likely was for the previous CheapSkate parts (the spacers are called CheapSkate spacers and are of a different shape than what I received)
So some notes about who should use which procedure might eliminate some headscratching. Perhaps this was noted somewhere earlier in the manual, but if it was, it must have fallen out of my brain, and there was a big deja vu moment when I started reading 6.7B !!

Yea, I did the same thing.

[geneb]

First page of the introduction:

"Special Note: If you see sections labeled “A” or “B” (ex. 6.7A), those sections cover the same
task, but with different parts! The Visual Bill of Material will identify which components will be
present for each “A” or “B” section. This was done to reduce confusion during the part update
process."



g.

[AlanZ]

Gene,

Thanks for the note. It's easy for a line of text that was presented 50 pages (and several days) earlier to fall out of one's brain <vbg>
A line or two in the first paragraph of an A or B section might reduce the head scratching.

I think you have done a stellar job on the assembly manual... so this is just a little user experience feedback.

[AlanZ]

A quick peek at the current state of the project.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E2072fZZVaA[/youtube]

[AlanZ]

I will be wiring the hot end tomorrow.

The black mesh sleeve is 26" long.
Currently the 'hot' end of the sleeve is about 3" above the melamine (the top of the base), and there is about 7" of wire exposed beyond the sleeve.

How much wire should be exposed on the hot end side of the sleeve to facilitate wiring the hot end, fans, etc.

I would prefer that it not have a lot of extra wire, but it would be nice to have some flexibility when adding fans, switching hot ends, etc.

Your thoughts?

[nitewatchman]

I would suggest wiring up the hot end and then pulling the excess up into the top of the printer rather than cutting it off. If you have to reterminate the hot end for some reason, that little bit of wire could come in handy.

[AlanZ]

I agree... it's the approach I was going to take unless someone came up with a compelling reason for a particular length.
Thanks!