Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

This may be the best Christmas Gift ever!!! I mentioned to my wife, that I had the easiest gift idea ever, one gift, a Rostock MAX v2...... Hallelujah, Santa was on target 120%!!!

It has become known and named by my teenagers as my "BAP" or Bad Ass Printer...... Totally Awesome!!!!!

It has been a ton of fun to put together with my kids, and has consumed our office space at home....

Great instructions and has been seamless. Today while soldering the wires to the Onyx Bed, I noticed one of the solder pads lifted off the back of the Onyx Bed when I bent up the resistor wire wire to trim it. I realize these pads are to allow easy connection of the wires and completion of the circuits, but because the pad lifted off the board, I am worried about a circuit break. I checked the impedance between the + 12V DC solder terminal and the proximal side of the resister, across the resister, from the resister to the LED, across the LED and from the LED to the -12V DC solder terminal. All these measurement are appropriate with impedance being 0.00 with only resistance across the resister and LED.

Is this going to be OK long term with the Kapton tape in place or should I place a small jumper wire to ensure connection? I also worry about the thermistor pads as well. Thoughts??

Thanks!!

Dan

3D-Print wrote:This may be the best Christmas Gift ever!!! I mentioned to my wife, that I had the easiest gift idea ever, one gift, a Restock MAX v2...... Hallelujah, Santa was on target 120%!!!

It has become known and named by my teenagers as my "BAP" or Bad Ass Printer...... Totally Awesome!!!!!

It has been a ton of fun to put together with my kids, and has consumed our office space at home....

Great instructions and has been seamless. Today while soldering the wires to the Onyx Bed, I noticed one of the solder pads lifted off the back of the Onyx Bed when I bent up the resistor wire wire to trim it. I realize these pads are to allow easy connection of the wires and completion of the circuits, but because the pad lifted off the board, I am worried about a circuit break. I checked the impedance between the + 12V DC solder terminal and the proximal side of the resister, across the resister, from the resister to the LED, across the LED and from the LED to the -12V DC solder terminal. All these measurement are appropriate with impedance being 0.00 with only resistance across the resister and LED.

Is this going to be OK long term with the Kapton tape in place or should I place a small jumper wire to ensure connection? I also worry about the thermistor pads as well. Thoughts??

Thanks!!

Dan

As long as continuity exists between the lifted pad and what it sources, Kapton tape to hold it down should be fine. If the pads are lifting, I would say to turn down the heat on the soldering iron, if that is possible.
Welcome to the Forum!
If you can posts some photos of your printer, that would be great!
We are here to help, if possible. Happy Printing!

Thank you!!

I agree, this was the second and thrid solder points which occured when the iron was at full temp. It is a 60W iron. I do think the same thing happenned with the thermister pad (my second point). With the remaining solder points, I unplugged the iron and let it cool. This allowed it to cool and soldered when just "hot enough." Didn't have any further problems.

If you have a stick iron with no temperature control, you could do what I did when I worked in aerospace back in the age of dinosaurs (well, I worked on Space Shuttle parts as well as other stuff)...

Plug the iron into a lighting dimmer and dial in the heat you need. If you already have one of these, you're all set
http://www.harborfreight.com/router-spe ... 43060.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

What I had to do back then was get a lighting dimmer and an electrical outlet, a "quad handy box" and lid that they fit in, a power cord and strain relief. It's wired so the dimmer powers the outlet. Still have that and use it from time to time, it's older than the Space Shuttles!

Awesome idea!! I like it and simple to do!!!

Dan

So I finished off my Restock MAX v2 this AM and it looks AWESOME. I will post pictures. Loved putting it together with the Kids and had no problems or questions. Very, very smooth assembly other than the prior noted overheating of the solder pads.

I turned it on without problems, uploaded the software without problems. Played with the X, Y, Z controllers..... Totally cool!!!

I performed all the checks: The PID algorithms for the hot end, PID for the and bed and set the values in the EEPRrom settings. It came to the temps quickly and I had no issues. I set up the Z-Stop height, the macros and the printer powered off like I hit the power switch I was entering in the terminal command G0 Z5 X90 Y0 F3500 as detailed on page 239 of the build instructions. No other issues.

I turned it back on and was powered back up without problems and when I turned on the tip and bed to 190 and 55 degrees it came back up to temp and stabilized. After about 5 minutes of watching, it turned off again. No smoke or anything. So I turned it back on and was able to home, temp came back up to 190 and 55 and I rechecked the Z5 X90 Y0 F3500 command without problems.

I monitored it for another 15 minutes without problems while turning the hotbed and hot end on and and off a couple of times. Was able to adjust the temp correctly without problems. Able to run the X, Y and Z controller and etc without problems. Switch connections are OK, LED lights are OK.

This AM I powered it up, heated up the bed and hot end without problems. After 10 minutes it shut off again. I turned it back on and it was OK, warmed back up without problems. I turned off the bed and hot end and did notice that the Rambo fan picked up RPM. I turned it on and off a couple of time and it clearly affects the rambo cooling fan RPM. I turned it off ........ I have to go to work now......... Dang!!!!

Not sure why it is doing that...... Does anyone have any insight???

Thanks,

Dan

I was thinking about this "Power Off issue" on my way to work.

When I did the PID algorithm, my averaged values were different than the default settings up. For example, my averaged Kp was 13'ish versus 33'ish (if I recall correctly). I'm not sure how these settings affect the power draw?

Is this possibly a reason why it's powering off suddenly.

Dan

I've been planning on ordering a V2 kit in a few days. I'm pouring over the posts on this board for the last few days, and I can't help but come to the conclusion that the power supply with this kit is a big problem. I can't see spending $1K+ on a kit only to find out that a $30 power supply is likely to cause issues after spending hours building it. Has SeeMeCNC responded to this? Are they making changes to the parts supplier? Can they sell the kit without the cost of the supply baked in, so I can select a supply that I'm much more confident will work consistently?

I'm sorry that this topic is my first post. This community is amazing, and I appreciate all of the ideas, advice, and engineering being done. I just want to get some better answers here, and mention that this specific issue is really making me question going with this kit, after I was initially very excited about the product.

AndyB wrote:I've been planning on ordering a V2 kit in a few days. I'm pouring over the posts on this board for the last few days, and I can't help but come to the conclusion that the power supply with this kit is a big problem. I can't see spending $1K+ on a kit only to find out that a $30 power supply is likely to cause issues after spending hours building it. Has SeeMeCNC responded to this? Are they making changes to the parts supplier? Can they sell the kit without the cost of the supply baked in, so I can select a supply that I'm much more confident will work consistently?

I'm sorry that this topic is my first post. This community is amazing, and I appreciate all of the ideas, advice, and engineering being done. I just want to get some better answers here, and mention that this specific issue is really making me question going with this kit, after I was initially very excited about the product.

I have seen them make two changes on the power supply that they include. To be honest, it's an issue across the computer industry. Either you spend $150 on a good power supply, or you're rolling the dice.
Mine has been running fine for about 40 hours of run time so far, with the included power supply. Though I did modify mine to remove all the excess wiring.

-Hans

Update:

Talked with support and they are sending a new power unit tomorrow. Have now found others that are also having trouble with the Diablotek DA Series 600W ATX. Haven't heard what they are sending yet. Hope it is good since I want to add a second Hot End eventually. Will update you when it arrives.

Thanks for all the great info on this site and comments.

Dan

3D-Print wrote:Update:

Talked with support and they are sending a new power unit tomorrow. Have now found others that are also having trouble with the Diablotek DA Series 600W ATX. Haven't heard what they are sending yet. Hope it is good since I want to add a second Hot End eventually. Will update you when it arrives.

Thanks for all the great info on this site and comments.

Dan

My Diablotek went out and they sent a Viotek PSU, I'm interested in hearing how your replacement works as mine is still in the box as a back up. I couldn't wait for the shipment and ended up replacing it with an EVGA 650. Works great now!

An Update from SeeMeCNC Support: They have been awesome!

.................
Dan,

That is indeed the power supply that has been giving us the issues recently. We have returned all the stock we had to the vendor and now are shipping out Viotek power supplies which we used to ship and have been experiencing no current power supply issue reports with them. I have one ready to ship to you.

FWIW, the 600W Diablotek I received worked just fine, but I swapped it out for a 1300W EVGA to support higher bed temperatures and hopefully a dual extruder upgrade.

The final steps: UpGrades - A copper sheet between the Onyx bed and glass, as well as add a PEI print surface.

I ordered the following.

1) PEI from amazon is: PEI (Polyetherimide) Sheet, Opaque Natural, Standard Tolerance, ASTM D5205 PEI0113, 0.03" Thickness, 12" Width, 12" Length ($17.34)
(http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013H ... UTF8&psc=1" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
2) St Louis Crafts Copper Foil Roll, 12 Inches X 5 Feet ($24.48)
(http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0042S ... UTF8&psc=1" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;)
3) Kapton tape sheet to protect the Onyx ($19.95)
(http://www.amazon.com/Addicore-Kapton-P ... B00JPTKFRU" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;)

UpGrade Plans:

Place the Kapton tape sheet on the Onyx. Was easy to put two sheets on and then trim off the excess with a blade.

Then, taking the 12" wide sheet of 36 GA copper sheet, I placed the print glass on the copper and I drew a line around the glass with a pen to make an impression. This was then easy to cut with an old pair of kitchen sheers.

Now I'm going to set up my PEI print surface as detailed by mhackney (http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... &start=618" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;)

1) Triple-washed the glass, after scraping it down with a razor blade, a cleaner, then Windex, then isopropyl alcohol
2) Place the 3M tape - TapeCase 468MP 12in X 12in
3) Isopropyl EtoH clean the PEI, let it dry, then laid it down with a minimum of curling of the plastic.
4) Weight it down

Will let you know how it all goes.

Just now placed the PEI as detailed above and at the following link (http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... &start=661" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;)

I used a new utility knife to cut the PEI which worked awesome and left a nice smooth edge. then i rubbed off a bit of the 3M tape which stuck to the edge of the glass.

Thanks,

Adding the Kapton tape

My cut copper heat conductor

The 3M Tape is on

PEI is on, and the glass and PEI is on the copper sheet and clipped in place.

Awesome!!!!!

Now just waiting for my new power supply. It is being delivered today.

New power unit arrived. It is all connected and after heating the bed and hit end for over an hour no issues. Looking good!

Now I need to calibrate and finish up.......... Will have to wait for the weekend!!!

Good job 3D-Print!

Ok, it is all calibrated. Took me about an hour and 45 min to get it money on!!!

I just loaded up the PEEK fan file. Here we go!!

Other than replacing the power unit..... Up and running without a single hitch!

Awesome!!!