New build almost complete

[mtizle]

I would like to thank SeemeCNC for such interesting product that is really fun to build. Currently I have all the hardware together and in the wiring stage of the device. Wondering if any one has used Cat5e wire on their step motors? I have some laying around and thinking of using it. Any ideas would be great.

Thank you,

Mtizle

[johnoly99]

Hey mitzle, thanks! We love the feedback. As for CAT5, yes, that's what I use. Make sure it is stranded not solid though. You can use the colored pairs in the wiring to double up on the wire size so you don't starve the motors for current.

[mtizle]

Sounds great that is what I was also thinking.

Thank you for a repley,

Mtizle

[michaellatif]

Yep, as John said, I use 24 gauge CAT-5 cable, unshielded, stranded and each color pair run to a single wire of the stepper.

[mtizle]

Posted couple questions in the mach3 Software forum regarding the 4 axis board setup. If anyone has a chance to take a look that would be great. Here is a direct link http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... 9&start=10

Thank you for any help,

Mtizle

[johnoly99]

Looks right to me!

[mtizle]

Added 4 Axis Board wiring, Dip Switch and Jumper Settings Diagrams to the mach3 software configuration thread. http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... 9&start=10 Need verification of Diagrams please.

Mtizle

[mtizle]

Hi all again,

Things going well but ran into a couple issues. Via the manual, Y positive should be toward the front of the machine. Right now within mach3 my positive/negative are revised. When I jog any axis it is the opposite of that found within the manual. Is this normal? How do I revise this to match? Another issue I am running into is Zeroing each axis. This may be due to the reversed +/- axis, but what is the procedure to set the Zero for x,y,z? EDIT - Found how to reverse the motors - Config -> Homing/limits - first column. This also seems to have fixed the zeroing issue, now looks to be zeroing. Pic below.

Any help would be great,

Mtizle

[mtizle]

After fixing the issue with reversed motors all seems to be operating correctly. One question I have is about the goto Z button. Is there anyway when using this option for the A axis not to be zeroed? Each time I do this operation, after feeding some material through the extruder, it backs the material back out of the extruder going to Zero. Mach3 sees the positive value on the A axis and returns it to zero, anyway to stop this behavior?

Mtizle

[mtizle]

Adding some pics, my H-1 and a filament holder I found at Walmart. The filament holder really is a garment rack but works well for 14 dollars. The rack is adjustable and sturdy enough to hold a 2.2lbs abs roll, haven't tried anything heavier yet.

[mtizle]

I would like to thank John and Steve for letting me know about the temp sensor from walmart. Looks my temps are correct now. I am having an issue with getting the abs to stick to the deck. Tried different things to make it stick, sanded the deck, blue tape and adjusted the temp a bit hotter to see if i would get better adhesion. At this time cannot tell if my flow isn't enough or my distance from the deck is to high. When I try and print the abs rolls up the tip and a blob develops on it. I used the A motor tuning profile supplied by mhackney. Also to make sure I am slicing the stl correctly. I'm using a Nozzle Diameter of .5 is that the standard 1.75mm nozzle supplied with the Kit?

Any suggestions would be great,

Mtizle

[johnoly99]

Hey tizle, try lowering your z height a bit and slowing down the speed for the first layer. Anytime, stop on by!

[mtizle]

Thank you for the reply John.

It did end up being the Z height along with an uncalibrated A Axis, my flow was way to slow. Adding a pic of my first print. Just from this one print I see why heated beds are a must.

Mtizle

[johnoly99]

Dude! For a first print, it's really not that bad! Congrats, it's alive! you can get that print down no problem without a heated bed. Spend plenty of time calibrating your Z and A axes, those are really the most important. After that, play around with printing the same part at different speeds and watch how it goes. you'll learn a lot from watching your machine do it's magic. Try 30mm/s perimeter, 40/s infill and solid, .3 layer height, .5 nozzle dia., and set the temp to about 430-440 F and that will come out better I bet!

[wildideas1]

yes My son and i built all the wiring using cat 5 and we are now into day 3 of tweaking to print clean prints. i will try and get pictures uploaded today to show all our build .