Introducing: Albertus Magnus

[rpress]

Wow! You deliver quickly!

How do you find it? The lizard looks really good. Do you find you get much smearing of colors? I see the cube, but not sure if it's intentional looking at the lizard print and how clean it came out.

How did I find the lizard/dragon? Or?
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:17309/#files" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

The cube is the purge tower. Because both colors mix inside the heat block, every color switch it purges into this sacrificial tower. You can see it in the video.

The key to clean color transisitons is in the retraction. My retractions are 4mm @ 100 mm/s. I don't see any colors where they shouldn't be, it looks better than the E3D demo prints if I do say so myself.

Looks freaking awesome!

Thanks! Next I will do a larger print, the first one was small/fast to see how things went.

[DavidF]

Wow! You deliver quickly!

How do you find it? The lizard looks really good. Do you find you get much smearing of colors? I see the cube, but not sure if it's intentional looking at the lizard print and how clean it came out.

Intentional, yes. Print? No. Wipe tower yes. Lol

[DavidF]

I do have a question. Is there software or something that will reconize support material and know to use one hot end vs the other? Or do you still have to have basically two different parts on the bed?

[rpress]

I do have a question. Is there software or something that will reconize support material and know to use one hot end vs the other? Or do you still have to have basically two different parts on the bed?

In Cura you can pick which extruder to use for support under Basic->Support->Support dual extrusion. The Cyclops probably isn't the best for this purpose because you can pretty much only run at one temperature for both filaments.

[DavidF]

I do have a question. Is there software or something that will reconize support material and know to use one hot end vs the other? Or do you still have to have basically two different parts on the bed?

In Cura you can pick which extruder to use for support under Basic->Support->Support dual extrusion. The Cyclops probably isn't the best for this purpose because you can pretty much only run at one temperature for both filaments.

Thanks, exactly what i needed to know...

[Tinyhead]

Wow! You deliver quickly!

How do you find it? The lizard looks really good. Do you find you get much smearing of colors? I see the cube, but not sure if it's intentional looking at the lizard print and how clean it came out.

How did I find the lizard/dragon? Or?
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:17309/#files" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

The cube is the purge tower. Because both colors mix inside the heat block, every color switch it purges into this sacrificial tower.

I just meant how do you find the cyclops hot end as far as functionality. I didn't realize that's what the tower was for. Clears up a whole lot of questions for me.

[rpress]

I just meant how do you find the cyclops hot end as far as functionality. I didn't realize that's what the tower was for. Clears up a whole lot of questions for me.

Ah well it seems nice enough. It fits pretty well on the max v2 effector, but not a lot of room to spare. The nozzle is super short which makes things more difficult with the layer fan positioning. It takes longer to warm up (larger heat block) and is much more affected by the layer fans. I might get a stronger heating element.

Really it's just what I was hoping for. The Cyclops isn't for everyone, but I didn't ever want to deal with two nozzles. Another oddity with it is that you must have two filaments loaded even if you only use one. I imagine that printing nylon while having PLA in the other side won't work out so well. I guess I'll find out when I try it.

[BenTheRighteous]

When I went from my stock hotend to my e3d, I also had trouble with the shorter nozzle and the layer fan. I wound up designing my own shroud, similar to the original but at less of an angle. I can post it if you'd like, it might work for the cyclops too.

[geneb]

Wrapping the heater block in silicone muffler tape will help prevent the layer fan from knocking down your head temp.

g.

[rpress]

When I went from my stock hotend to my e3d, I also had trouble with the shorter nozzle and the layer fan. I wound up designing my own shroud, similar to the original but at less of an angle. I can post it if you'd like, it might work for the cyclops too.

My last hot end was a v6. The Cyclops is even shorter!

Wrapping the heater block in silicone muffler tape will help prevent the layer fan from knocking down your head temp.

g.

Any suggestions for a particular product? I had wrapped my last hotend with Teflon tape. But after a few failed prints it was an absolute mess!

[jneilliii]

I noticed the stepper drivers on the RAMBo were kinda hot. Not real bad, but I figure cooler is better. I put on some teeny adhesive heatsinks, to the top of the chip and also underneath on the circuit board. http://www.amazon.com/Cosmos-Aluminum-C ... B007XACV8O" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
[img]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-l1vo ... 012_180004[/img]
You can also see my serial port direct connection, the black/white/gray wires.

I installed the Arduino tools on the R-Pi so I can compile the firmware and upload it direct. This way I don't have to mess with the USB cord to update the firmware. I had to make a bunch of changes to the Repetier-Firmware to get it to cleanly compile but it seems to be working fine. I fixed some things like the knob direction, quieted down the beeper, and went back to the stock menu. With the menu change I can look at the internal buffers to see if they are running out.

Do you have any write up of how you connected the RAMBo to the Pi directly? I'm not the most confident when reading electrical schematics. Also, it seems that the Pi needs 3.3V but the RAMBo is 5V, how did you accommodate for that?

[rpress]

Do you have any write up of how you connected the RAMBo to the Pi directly? I'm not the most confident when reading electrical schematics. Also, it seems that the Pi needs 3.3V but the RAMBo is 5V, how did you accommodate for that?

Sorry I didn't do any drawing. My Pi is powered from the RAMBo so the grounds are the same. It's something like this. Connect the Pi TX to RAMBo JP22 RX0. Connect the Pi RX through a 1k resistor to RAMBo JP22 TX0. The resistor keeps voltages in check.

[bot]

Gene, is the silicone tape better than kapton tape at insulating? I always wondered what that muffler tape was made of... it seems so obvious in retrospect.

[rpress]

I rearranged some wiring on the RAMBo and switched the hotend and the bed output. This allowed me to run the hotend on the 24V supply. I set the PID_MAX to 220 to keep it at 80W. There's no problem with the fans any more and it heats up faster than the v6 did.

[rpress]

I printed a larger dragon at 0.1 mm layer height, 120 mm/s. The red filament (cheap, crappy) would jam because it would sit idle while the green was printing. This filament would also jam when printing too slow, but luckily the canola oil fixed the jamming. Thanks for the tip @nitewatchman! I've never had problems with the green filament.

There are still a few Cura bugs I need to squash. The minimum layer time was not enforced on the top knee joint. I've already fixed the bug with the wrong retracts used on filament switch.

[img]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-cLGZ ... 055014.jpg[/img]

[geneb]

I'm pretty sure the video I did on how to install the threaded thermistor & heater cartridge shows the brand of tape I use. I don't recall and I can't check from where I'm at right now.
The silicone tape is a better insulator, but it has no adhesive on it. It only sticks to itself.

Early (and some current!) hot ends used a red wrap of some kind that had fibers or strings embedded in it. If you could find that stuff, you could use that as well. Unfortunately, I don't know what it is.

g.

[rpress]

Thanks @geneb. I have some silicone tape (self vulcanizing or whatever) kicking around the garage but I don't know who made it. I'll try it on my old hotend and see what happens.

[geneb]

The stuff I got from Autozone has a slight crease down the center and I use that as a guide to cut it in half. You end up with a strip 1/2" or so wide.

g.

[John2907]

is this the stuff Gene?
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-in-x-10- ... 68401.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[geneb]

If it's got a high temp rating, that would work. The packaging should list the max temp. Cut in half lengthwise to use as a hot end wrap.
You want to stretch it a bit as you wrap it to make sure it has a tight hold on the heater block.

g.

[John2907]

If it's got a high temp rating, that would work. The packaging should list the max temp. Cut in half lengthwise to use as a hot end wrap.
You want to stretch it a bit as you wrap it to make sure it has a tight hold on the heater block.

g.

I'm very familiar with this type of tape, I just had not realized it had such a high heat rating.
Found some at my local ace hardware.
I went there to get the 3mm tap.
The package says good up to 500F, so I'm guessing this is the stuff.
Had it in black, white, red, olive green, clear and a purple-blue.

Bought it in black, not ready to fit the neon lights yet.

[geneb]

Can you post a pic of the packaging? I didn't know Ace carried it. I'm always up for oddly colored parts.

g.

[AndyB]

The product is called WrapIt Repair from VersaChem.

I found it at O'Reilly Auto parts:

[barry99705]

We used to use that on airplanes. Had two types, normal black stuff, and red/orange high heat stuff. Used it on the back of cannon plugs.

[geneb]

The product is called WrapIt Repair from VersaChem.

I found it at O'Reilly Auto parts:

That's the exact stuff I've been using.

g.