V2 to V3 conversion

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knabo
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Posts: 42
Joined: Wed Apr 06, 2016 12:08 pm

V2 to V3 conversion

Post by knabo »

It was upgrade time for my V2. On my list was MosFet for the heated bed, Duet controller, and maybe dual extrusion.

The V2 electronics are buried in the base of course and Some disassembly would be required. Then I saw the SeeMeCnC dual extruder adapter and the path became clear. The V3 electronics are all in the upper section. The V3 has a dual extruder mount option. I have to rebuild the frame anyway.

So V2 to V3 conversion was the answer.

I also replaced the 12V power supply to a 12V meanwell supply. Not for any power reason, I was not ready to go 24V. But the cooling fan on the stock power supply is a bit loud when it kicks on. The meanwell supply fan is more quiet. Plus it is UL certified. Luckily it fits exactly the same as the stock supply. With a quick mount print the MosFet fits nicely.
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This also simplified the wiring a bit. I ran the 12 gauge wire up the two verticals, but in the third I ran the thermister wire and 22 gauge red and black for the heater control. I also changed the wire to the bed heater to 12 gauge per the V3. Its a bit overkill for the 12A that the heater pulls but it matched the size of all the other power wire. Better safe than less safe.

The old style onyx heater is thicker than the new one. I use a filaprint build surface on a tricklaser heat spreader. The stack up of these was a bit taller than the clips would allow. One 6-32 teflon washer under each clip made up the difference.

One other note, I filed all the molding seams off the outside of the molded parts. For one they fit in the tabs much better and for two it seemed important they be removed on the upper and lower surfaces that contact the frame parts for bed leveling.

In the upper section it was important for me to keep things neat. After all I planned to change to the Duet so I didn't want my wires in a knot I couldn't unravel. SeeMeCnc has some wire bundling instructions but it still seemed a bit messy.
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I printed out a couple of wire spools to keep things under control. Also you will notice I installed a short terminal strip for power distribution just in case I wanted to add a fan or lights at a later date. The strip is rated for 25A so it will not be a safety issue.

In the firmware I had to make sure none of the motors were reversed. You had to reverse one in the V2 arrangement. My trick laser low profile skates worked with the limit switches perfectly (still manually leveling) In the end I got an extra 50mm of build height with the V3.

Some of you might be asking yourself, why didn't he just move to the Duet at the same time? Well, I have a habit of not changing too many things at once. And before you change something the tool needs to be working. So this round was new frame and the bed Mosfet. Now that everything is working I will start on the Duet conversion.

My other guideline is that of my two printers, only one can be down at a time. That way you can print the parts you need as you go.
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davec3275
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Joined: Mon Sep 28, 2015 7:24 am
Location: PA

Re: V2 to V3 conversion

Post by davec3275 »

Nice progress so far. Subscribed to follow closely as I am considering the same conversion.

Any chance you can post the model of the Power supply you purchased?
knabo
Printmaster!
Posts: 42
Joined: Wed Apr 06, 2016 12:08 pm

Re: V2 to V3 conversion

Post by knabo »

I switched it out for a Meanwell supply (Mean Well NES-350-12 12V 350 Watt Ul Switching Power Supply 110-240 Volt)
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