sLpFhaWK's early v2 kit to most recent iteration completed. Have a couple of questions.
sLpFhaWK's early v2 kit to most recent iteration completed. Have a couple of questions.
Hi there! I just completed my Rostock Max V2 kit printer tonight! All in all, everything turned out pretty good, but I do have some small questions that hopefully someone will know the answer too, but first a small story about the printer.
Someone on Reddit was advertising a possible F/S for their RMAX v2, having looked at them in the past I thought if the price is right I'll snatch it up. Turns out the kit was about 60% finished,and it just sat there in his workshop for over a year uncompleted. He said he'd sell the kit for 650 shipped, not knowing there were 2 different versions of the v2 I thought this is a pretty awesome deal, so I snatched it up. Because the rails were installed it required a HUGE box to ship, I told him to take the rails off but he said no it's ok because he was paying to ship I said ok, whatever you want to do, in the end, I wish he took them off but more on that later.
So he ships the printer I get it late June, I unbox it notice wood parts are broken, it's obvious it was tossed around, he took out 1k of insurance on it which was good and it turns out it ended up costing him $325 to ship the package with insurance, my jaw dropped when I found out. Part of me felt bad but the other part of me didn't as I knew I was going to be frustrated with UPS's insurance policy. fast forward 8 weeks later a new wood kit arrived and 2 days later the printer was back with me.
So after speaking with MHackney on possibly meeting up to have a printer assembly party I emailed him earlier this week but did not receive a reply which is ok, because hey, life happens! =) So I took the initiative and said screw it, the build can't be that difficult so I started yesterday and finished tonight and here she is!
Sorry for the terrible pictures, it's like 2am here so I can't get all sorts of pretty shots =)
now that the build is complete I do have a few questions.
There is no cut out to run the USB cable through the Plexi, does SeeMeCNC encourage SD Card printing only? I ask because I am an octo-print guy so I'd rather use that instead of the SD card so here is a question. I need to supply power to a raspberry pi, is there a way to do it with the PSU? Essentially having 2 power switches, 1 for the PSU, and 1 to power on the Rambo? I don't want to have to keep shutting down the pi if I want to power off the printer when it's not in use, so any help here would be great.
Another issue I have is MATTER CONTROL. That software is terrible but I understand why it's used for initial setup and print because of the EEPROM editing. So I own a license to s3d (Simplify 3D) and I know they have a profile built for it, does anyone use it for their RMAX and if so, is there anything I need to change?
I printed the 30x30mm x10mm fan shroud and it printed really well actually, now is the 1 fan acceptable enough for cooling, or should I order 2 more, if i need to order is there a place cheaper to get those fans because SeeMeCNC charges 12 bucks a pop for them, that seems a bit expensive so that's why I am looking for an alternative, I don't mind supporting the company but I have so many 40mm fans laying around maybe I could use them?
Oh and last but not least, I know there is a HUGE thread on the forums for PEI, I had it on both my other printers and I need it for the MAX, so is there a good supplier that sells the thin sheets with adhesive on them that the Prusa MK2 uses?
Sorry for the long post but I figured the back story was semi important pertinent to my questions. Thanks!
Someone on Reddit was advertising a possible F/S for their RMAX v2, having looked at them in the past I thought if the price is right I'll snatch it up. Turns out the kit was about 60% finished,and it just sat there in his workshop for over a year uncompleted. He said he'd sell the kit for 650 shipped, not knowing there were 2 different versions of the v2 I thought this is a pretty awesome deal, so I snatched it up. Because the rails were installed it required a HUGE box to ship, I told him to take the rails off but he said no it's ok because he was paying to ship I said ok, whatever you want to do, in the end, I wish he took them off but more on that later.
So he ships the printer I get it late June, I unbox it notice wood parts are broken, it's obvious it was tossed around, he took out 1k of insurance on it which was good and it turns out it ended up costing him $325 to ship the package with insurance, my jaw dropped when I found out. Part of me felt bad but the other part of me didn't as I knew I was going to be frustrated with UPS's insurance policy. fast forward 8 weeks later a new wood kit arrived and 2 days later the printer was back with me.
So after speaking with MHackney on possibly meeting up to have a printer assembly party I emailed him earlier this week but did not receive a reply which is ok, because hey, life happens! =) So I took the initiative and said screw it, the build can't be that difficult so I started yesterday and finished tonight and here she is!
Sorry for the terrible pictures, it's like 2am here so I can't get all sorts of pretty shots =)
now that the build is complete I do have a few questions.
There is no cut out to run the USB cable through the Plexi, does SeeMeCNC encourage SD Card printing only? I ask because I am an octo-print guy so I'd rather use that instead of the SD card so here is a question. I need to supply power to a raspberry pi, is there a way to do it with the PSU? Essentially having 2 power switches, 1 for the PSU, and 1 to power on the Rambo? I don't want to have to keep shutting down the pi if I want to power off the printer when it's not in use, so any help here would be great.
Another issue I have is MATTER CONTROL. That software is terrible but I understand why it's used for initial setup and print because of the EEPROM editing. So I own a license to s3d (Simplify 3D) and I know they have a profile built for it, does anyone use it for their RMAX and if so, is there anything I need to change?
I printed the 30x30mm x10mm fan shroud and it printed really well actually, now is the 1 fan acceptable enough for cooling, or should I order 2 more, if i need to order is there a place cheaper to get those fans because SeeMeCNC charges 12 bucks a pop for them, that seems a bit expensive so that's why I am looking for an alternative, I don't mind supporting the company but I have so many 40mm fans laying around maybe I could use them?
Oh and last but not least, I know there is a HUGE thread on the forums for PEI, I had it on both my other printers and I need it for the MAX, so is there a good supplier that sells the thin sheets with adhesive on them that the Prusa MK2 uses?
Sorry for the long post but I figured the back story was semi important pertinent to my questions. Thanks!
Re: sLpFhaWK's early v2 kit to most recent iteration completed. Have a couple of questions.
There's a hole for the USB cable in the base, just a bit behind and to the left of where the LCD is mounted.
g.
g.
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Defeat the Cartesian Agenda!
http://www.f15sim.com - 80-0007, The only one of its kind.
http://geneb.simpits.org - Technical and Simulator Projects
- bvandiepenbos
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Re: sLpFhaWK's early v2 kit to most recent iteration completed. Have a couple of questions.
S3D is great. Be sure to download the latest version, lots of improvement.
~*Brian V.
RostockMAX v2 (Stock)
MAX METAL "ShortyMAX"
MAX METAL Rostock MAX Printer Frame
NEMESIS Air Delta v1 & v2 -Aluminum delta printers
Rostock MAX "KITT" - Tri-Force Frame
GRABER i3 "Slim"
RostockMAX v2 (Stock)
MAX METAL "ShortyMAX"
MAX METAL Rostock MAX Printer Frame
NEMESIS Air Delta v1 & v2 -Aluminum delta printers
Rostock MAX "KITT" - Tri-Force Frame
GRABER i3 "Slim"
Re: sLpFhaWK's early v2 kit to most recent iteration completed. Have a couple of questions.
Really? I will have to go check that again, thanks friend!geneb wrote:There's a hole for the USB cable in the base, just a bit behind and to the left of where the LCD is mounted.
g.
Oh yeah I've been using s3d for almost a year now, definitely have the newest version. It works so well i just need to tweak a couple of settings. I think the vertical lift was causing some issues.bvandiepenbos wrote:S3D is great. Be sure to download the latest version, lots of improvement.
- Eaglezsoar
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Re: sLpFhaWK's early v2 kit to most recent iteration completed. Have a couple of questions.
Here is one source of the PEI sheets with the adhesive backing. (12" X 12")
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ultem-PEI-Sheet ... SwEjFXdt2G
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ultem-PEI-Sheet ... SwEjFXdt2G
“ Do Not Regret Growing Older. It is a Privilege Denied to Many. ”
Re: sLpFhaWK's early v2 kit to most recent iteration completed. Have a couple of questions.
Wow, that is expensive! The problem with that is I'd have to cut it, and it wouldn't be perfect =(Eaglezsoar wrote:Here is one source of the PEI sheets with the adhesive backing. (12" X 12")
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ultem-PEI-Sheet ... SwEjFXdt2G
I want a solution that's already perfect, and cut to shape, and thin like the ones included on the Prusa MK2 Printer. http://shop.prusa3d.com/en/3d-printer-p ... ultem.html
It's nice and thin and easy to work with.
Also, I am having an issue with printing thin walled parts, for example.
Both pairs were sliced with Simplify 3d.
Temps are 230c/90c
Changes from left to right are
Retraction was 6.5 to 6.25
Extra restart Distance was 0 to -.10
Z-hop was .3 to .0
Feed was was .90 to .95
Hot end is Genuine E3dV6 with a .4 nozzle.
it was set to 50% infill but like I said these are thin walls only 2 perimeters thick. The changes I made on the right improved, but still need some work, think it could be a little under extrusion?
It's after 9pm, my fiance has work really early tomorrow so I don't wanna fire up the printer as she's getting ready for bed, so I can test tomorrow if anything else comes to mind for settings to change.
Figured I'd get better results asking here!!
Thanks!
- Eaglezsoar
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Re: sLpFhaWK's early v2 kit to most recent iteration completed. Have a couple of questions.
Under extrusion is a good possibility. Have you calibrated your extruder so that when commanded to push 100mm of filament that it actually extrudes that amount?
You can also temporarily use a different slicer and see if the same problems exist with the different slicer.
You can also temporarily use a different slicer and see if the same problems exist with the different slicer.
“ Do Not Regret Growing Older. It is a Privilege Denied to Many. ”
Re: sLpFhaWK's early v2 kit to most recent iteration completed. Have a couple of questions.
i haven't. I thought it would be close from the factory, but I guess I should go over that tomorrow.
Re: sLpFhaWK's early v2 kit to most recent iteration completed. Have a couple of questions.
So I ended up going with this, http://catalog.cshyde.com/item/3d-print ... a-3d-12x12 and it's perfect. Same stuff on the MK2 Prusa. I haven't installed it, I'm gonna to do it now I think and 1st print will be tomorrow!!
Re: sLpFhaWK's early v2 kit to most recent iteration completed. Have a couple of questions.
I found it's worth a little extra to get a 12.5 inch diameter circle cut for me. Gives you a little wiggle room on getting it centered. Then all you have to do is run a new razor blade along the edge to trim it down.sLpFhaWK wrote:So I ended up going with this, http://catalog.cshyde.com/item/3d-print ... a-3d-12x12 and it's perfect. Same stuff on the MK2 Prusa. I haven't installed it, I'm gonna to do it now I think and 1st print will be tomorrow!!
It's $22 for a the 12.5 circle.
Re: sLpFhaWK's early v2 kit to most recent iteration completed. Have a couple of questions.
If you're using simplify3d, set the Extrusion width to Manual with the value of your nozzle diameter.
You might want to print a few hollow cubes to measure and adjust your extrusion values. Appears to be under extruding, like Eaglezsoar said.
You might want to print a few hollow cubes to measure and adjust your extrusion values. Appears to be under extruding, like Eaglezsoar said.
Re: sLpFhaWK's early v2 kit to most recent iteration completed. Have a couple of questions.
Oh it's been set to manual. I learned that months ago on my other printers. Auto had it way to wide, and it was never printing correctly.KAS wrote:If you're using simplify3d, set the Extrusion width to Manual with the value of your nozzle diameter.
You might want to print a few hollow cubes to measure and adjust your extrusion values. Appears to be under extruding, like Eaglezsoar said.
I blew a fuse on the board, so they should be delivered tomorrow. That's when I'll resume printing on it.