My "BAP"

[3D-Print]

First Print of supports.

[3D-Print]

I been printing items which are 10.5 inches wide with the widest part along the X-axis of the print bed (left and right as you face the front of the printer). One particular item has failed to print a number of times when the print head is at the edge of the print bed between the X and Z axis'. When I watched this, it occurs after finishing a print layer with a transition to a non-print move back to the center. It appears that the Y-stepper is lifting when the X and Z axis' steppers are dropping during this non-print movement and that the X and Z axis' drop is faster than the lift of the Y axis. This drives the print head into the print bed. After that it throws it all off.

The Y-axis belt was a bit loose and I adjusted/tightened it to match the others. I also slowed down the non-print movement speed to 250 mm. My z-lift is set at 1 mm. I also rotated the print 90 degrees such that the widest aspect is oriented along the "Y-axis" of the print bed (front and back towards the z-axis).

It is working this time and I'm not sure if I'm lucky or my changes (I know I should only change one thing at a time) did the trick.

Any insight is appreciated.

Thanks.

Dan

[3D-Print]

I been printing items which are 10.5 inches wide with the widest part along the X-axis of the print bed (left and right as you face the front of the printer). One particular item has failed to print a number of times when the print head is at the edge of the print bed between the X and Z axis'. When I watched this, it occurs after finishing a print layer with a transition to a non-print move back to the center. It appears that the Y-stepper is lifting when the X and Z axis' steppers are dropping during this non-print movement and that the X and Z axis' drop is faster than the lift of the Y axis. This drives the print head into the print bed. After that it throws it all off.

The Y-axis belt was a bit loose and I adjusted/tightened it to match the others. I also slowed down the non-print movement speed to 250 mm. My z-lift is set at 1 mm. I also rotated the print 90 degrees such that the widest aspect is oriented along the "Y-axis" of the print bed (front and back towards the z-axis).

It is working this time and I'm not sure if I'm lucky or my changes (I know I should only change one thing at a time) did the trick.

Any insight is appreciated.


Thanks.

Dan

To follow up. After adjusting the belt I've had no trouble. I did tighten it well this time. Not sure why it slipped since I'm know for over tightening things. If it happens again I have a design for tightening the belts much like a typical idler.

Dan

[3D-Print]

All the pieces are printed and I have finally been able to out it together. Bought 1/2 longer stainless steel screws and attached the lower brackets.

I joined all the pieces of Lexan plexi-glass together with the flex-joints and then inserted all 5 panels (minus the door) in to the slots of the bottom brackets, then topped off each off with the upper brackets. Putting the top brackets were a bit of manipulation but overall quite easy (easy enought that I added the plexiglass and top pieces during a print and didn't mess it up) . Now to attach all the upper brackets using the stainless steel screws I removed from the bottom. Then the door.

[JFettig]

Looks very nice! Just have to print the last pieces to hold the door shut

[drunkenmugsy]

Ooooh I like that little copper bit there.

[3D-Print]

Thanks!

The printer is not as loud with the enclosure. As well, even though not closed up completely (need to finish the door as noted above) was 105 degree F. Will see how warm it gets after finishing the door.

I did also buy some GU-10 fixtures for some 50W halogens (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DPC ... UTF8&psc=1" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;). I am planning to hang the halogens from the top for light and heat for the chamber. Have a dimmer for the halogens to control the amount of temp/light. As shown below I put the dimmer switch wired on the left side panel and will run and additional 110V cord to power the lights.

With the enclosure, I placed a conduit alone the back of the enclosure to run the power up from the dimmer to the halogen lights. Will also ultimately run wires up a second conduit I placed for a second extruder stepper....... if /when I set up a Cyclops or other.

Will attach some pic's in a bit.

[3D-Print]

Ooooh I like that little copper bit there.

I found some 36 gauge copper on Amazon (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0042S ... UTF8&psc=1" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;). I cut this and use this between the heat bed and glass as a Heat dissipator. Also adding to the copper color is the PEI on the glass as my print surface. As most know this has been detailed awesomely by mhackney (http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=7452" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;).

I bought my PEI from amazon (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013H ... UTF8&psc=1" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;). I love the PEI.

It all works awesome.

[3D-Print]

One step closer to finishing the enclosure. Hooked up the Halogen bulbs which I essentually drop hung from the top. Works awesome and I like the ability to dim the bulbs as in the attached pictures. I do worry that one bulb is close to my extruder stepper. Will need to watch and make sure it doesn't get too hot. I will also need to watch the Lexan plexiglass but suspect it will be OK since Lexican is quite resilisnt.

Still need to finish the door with an "edge" to close the door against such that I have contact closure and thus "seal" the chamber a bit more tight. Then to print the handle, and black enamel paint the dimmer knob.

Thanks for all the ideas on the forum.

[mvansomeren]

Looks very nice.

I was getting ready to print the enclosure supports as well and it looks like the larger pieces have a print time of over 3 hrs. each. How much time did you spend printing them - did you do it all in one shot or over a number of days (weeks)? Did you experience any problem with warping with the parts being so large? (I assume you're printing in ABS).

[JFettig]

Let me know how the halogen bulbs work! That was one of my ideas for heat, it only takes about 100-200w to keep the enclosure warm.

I still haven't re-printed my enclosure parts, most of them are a little warped. I printed all my lowers, set up the polycarbonate shields then printed the uppers.

[Eaglezsoar]

Great job and some excellent ideas, thanks for sharing!

[mvansomeren]

I still haven't re-printed my enclosure parts, most of them are a little warped. I printed all my lowers, set up the polycarbonate shields then printed the uppers.

Would it make sense to print them in PLA as it's less prone to warping or would the heat inside the enclosure get warm enough to start melting PLA?

[JFettig]

I still haven't re-printed my enclosure parts, most of them are a little warped. I printed all my lowers, set up the polycarbonate shields then printed the uppers.

Would it make sense to print them in PLA as it's less prone to warping or would the heat inside the enclosure get warm enough to start melting PLA?

It might get stoft, mine gets up over 40C with the sun shining on it.

[3D-Print]

Looks very nice.

I was getting ready to print the enclosure supports as well and it looks like the larger pieces have a print time of over 3 hrs. each. How much time did you spend printing them - did you do it all in one shot or over a number of days (weeks)? Did you experience any problem with warping with the parts being so large? (I assume you're printing in ABS).

I did print them in ABS. As you mentioned many pieces printed over many hours. I printed the thicker bottom pieces over night and then started another when I went to work. Then printed the upper pieces after getting home from work. Took about 10 days since I was out of town for a couple of days.

They were wide and there was a few pieces that warped a bit especially when the room was cold. Did reprint a couple and learned a brim helped hold them down as well as I set the bed with PEI at 100 degrees. A couple which did warp slightly did not effect alignment since that was at the overlap region as designed.

You can see the piece that is warped and with printing it upright the warp does not impact it much. I am curious if with the heated enclosure if there is as much warping.

[3D-Print]

Let me know how the halogen bulbs work! That was one of my ideas for heat, it only takes about 100-200w to keep the enclosure warm.

I still haven't re-printed my enclosure parts, most of them are a little warped. I printed all my lowers, set up the polycarbonate shields then printed the uppers.

It was was on of your threads that mentioned using a halogen! I agree, I liked the idea that they are small and can put out some heat. Three halogens spaced between each tower made sense. The back two are placed slightly towards the front to avoid being close to the extruder stepper.

Even though I have not plugged all the holes and the door is not done yet it was 46 degrees C in the chamber when the bed was 100 and the lights on high. I bet it will get over 50-55 when sealed up.

I'm now halfway through a print and you can see the temp in the chamber is 48 degrees while printing an alien for my daughter. The Onyx was at 100. I placed my BBQ wireless thermometer in the middle of the chamber from top-to-bottom.

[3D-Print]

Let me know how the halogen bulbs work! That was one of my ideas for heat, it only takes about 100-200w to keep the enclosure warm.

I still haven't re-printed my enclosure parts, most of them are a little warped. I printed all my lowers, set up the polycarbonate shields then printed the uppers.

Also great design on the brackets. They fit perfectly and aligned perfectly. Upper pieces were easy to drill.

Thanks!!

[3D-Print]

Sealed up the door edge and it is now 54 degrees C. Next to seal up all the holes in the top.

[JFettig]

Wow that is really good! Have you compared temps near the build plate, top, and everything between?

To seal up holes, I temporarily used masking tape... Haven't changed it yet

[Eaglezsoar]

3D-Print, what is the meter that you show in one of your pictures, it looks like a nice one.

[3D-Print]

Wow that is really good! Have you compared temps near the build plate, top, and everything between?

To seal up holes, I temporarily used masking tape... Haven't changed it yet

Not yet the prior measurements were in the middle of the chamber (top-to-bottom). I will measure the temps today after I seal up the holes.

[3D-Print]

3D-Print, what is the meter that you show in one of your pictures, it looks like a nice one.

It is my wireless BBQ/oven thermometer.

Works well! However I should check and see how it compares our sugar thermometer!! Will see if it is accurate at "lower than oven temps."

[3D-Print]

3D-Print, what is the meter that you show in one of your pictures, it looks like a nice one.

It is my wireless BBQ/oven thermometer.

Works well!

Set on "Meat".

[3D-Print]

I taped off all of the holes in the top with Kapton tape. I also taped off the X, Y and Z towers. Thus, the chamber is fairly tight.

Started a print and waited for 30 minutes for the temps to stabilize. I had the Halogen lights at full power, the print bed was at 100 degrees C and the ambient room temperature was 25 degrees C.

Temps:
At the very top: 62 degrees C
At the level of the extruder stepper: 59 degrees C
16 inches above the print bed: 57 degrees C
12 inches above the print bed: 55 degrees C
2 inches above the print bed: 53 degrees C

Of note, the print I ran was a small "footprint/area." I could tell the the ABS was soft and with each layer was flexible. As the print area enlarged the ABS hardened.

I turned off the lights and will recheck temps again later.

[3D-Print]

Now I'm not sure why this happened but you can see that the filament completely messed up. I don't suspect this is NOT due to temp but this did seam like something to note and detail in this discussion. I have had this particular filament (from SeeMeCNC) break during a print.

Any ideas??