Rostock Max V2 build with a few upgrades from the start.

[nitewatchman]

That does look very nice! If I had my CNC already i would have loved to do it that way.

What CNC Mill are you getting?

[travelphotog]

I would love a bigger and heaver one... But I have settled on the Shapeoko 2 with a Tinyg and 400w spindle. My main use for it is milling PCB boards. I have upgraded the Z axes with a Acme lead screw and nut. I would love to do a bit of plastic and maybe (VERY SLOWLY some 6061 1/8- 1/4" aluminum items. I also have to have it in my office in an enclosure due to lack work space outside of the house.

My main use for it is the PCB etching as i am pretty tired of acid etching and REALLY over all the drilling for my LED projects on the PCB boards.

[Eaglezsoar]

I would love a bigger and heaver one... But I have settled on the Shapeoko 2 with a Tinyg and 400w spindle. My main use for it is milling PCB boards. I have upgraded the Z axes with a Acme lead screw and nut. I would love to do a bit of plastic and maybe (VERY SLOWLY some 6061 1/8- 1/4" aluminum items. I also have to have it in my office in an enclosure due to lack work space outside of the house.

My main use for it is the PCB etching as i am pretty tired of acid etching and REALLY over all the drilling for my LED projects on the PCB boards.

Could you explain how to convert the pcb files into GCode for the router?

[travelphotog]

I lay out the boards in a program called Copper Connection. I started with that program as it was a great tool for photo and toner transfer etching with acid. But it can also save the needed files to convert to the G Code for the router. I take the PCB GERBER file into a program called FlatCam http://caram.cl/software/flatcam/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; and it pretty much does all the rest for me. It will convert the files into the toolpath that the mill can understand. It will also level the working surface by cutting a shallow pocket which the board then drops into. It will do just isolation milling or it can be set to remove all the copper on the board but the traces you want. Just depends on the look you want and how much time you have and how big of a mess you want to clean up afterwards. You also import the GERBER file for the drilling points and it will then do the hardest part which is the drilling of the PCBs. Then when it is done it will cut the board out into any shape you desire and then you have a nice new board all ready for tinning and be populated.

As I do not have my personal mill yet, I have only done it a few times on a friend's mill. But it was a life saver for the large boards we were doing and the insane amount of holes I would have had to do on the drill press. As soon as I have my mill up and running I will gladly post pics and I will also be offering the PCB making services of the mill if anyone needs a board made.

[Eaglezsoar]

travelphotog, thanks for the detailed answer.
A very good tutorial on how to get started.

[travelphotog]

I am working on my heated and humidity controlled printer enclosure now. It will need a few boards made for the Arduino environmental control system. I will post the process with pics when I do. By the time I have the enclosure designed in CAD and the beta prints made and fitted, I should have my mill and can give you guys a good idea of how it mills the PCBs then.

[geneb]

There's also a program called pcb-gcode that runs as a script within Eagle. It's open source and works pretty well.

g.

[travelphotog]

Well it was a really long night of CAD work.. But I knocked out a few things and among them was the lower part of my full build area enclosure. I just have to print the beta prototypes later today and get the final fittings worked out. Will have Arduino controlled full temp and humidity controls.

A pattern fit of the new full build area enclosure. temp and humidity controls soon to come.

Sorry for the mess in the shot. I am still setting up the printer how I want to and printing off parts. This shot has the side ventilation panel that just finished as I was fitting the enclosure pattern to double check everything.

[Eaglezsoar]

There's also a program called pcb-gcode that runs as a script within Eagle. It's open source and works pretty well.

g.

Oh No! I have scripts running inside me! I am doomed!

[travelphotog]

OK a few updates...
I threw together a nice new home for my new best friend in CAD the other night.

Box and insert for calibration dial.

All nice and happy in a safe new home. That old cardboard box HAD to go.

Beta panels for full build area enclosure fit check are all printed and everything fits perfectly!

I am now working on the upper fixture for the enclosure and the locking system to keep it all together without adding holes to the MAX. I should have more done shortly. Though I do have a few photo shoots to knock out in the next couple of days and also need to get hopping on my filament extruder this weekend. At the rate I am going through filament I am REALLY looking forward to getting that puppy up and running.

[travelphotog]

Progress has been made on the enclosure. Render is not complete but the deisgn is almost finished. Will be printing the lower platform pieces this weekend.

More to come soon!

[nitewatchman]

Looks promising.

[travelphotog]

Thanks! Will be working on the joints between the pieces today and mating them to the Rostock.. REALLY trying to avoid having to make any new holes in my printer... Time will tell how THAT works out. I am hoping to just use some of the screws already in place by just adding longer ones and mating the support pieces to the printer that way. I should have a few BETA pieces done by tonight.

[teoman]

Updates?

Also, are you doing this as a community project, or do you intend on going commercial with it?

Mind sharing what you have done so far with the peltiers, i will need to start to source parts.

[travelphotog]

Updates?

Also, are you doing this as a community project, or do you intend on going commercial with it?

Mind sharing what you have done so far with the peltiers, i will need to start to source parts.

I am still working on the joints between the pieces on the enclosure. I am trying to avoid drilling any new holes in the printer and yet still support pieces needed to enclose the build area. I did a few test joints and think I found one I like. I have the uprights finished and done how I wanted them. They now have counter sunk screw holes to mount the Plexiglas and also have a track to hold LED light strips so the inside will be nice and bright. I also have made sure there is a nice channel up the middle inside of them to allow for more wires to be run to the top for things like lights and a second EZStruder system. I still have to finalize the door design for both chambers (build area and filament area) Right now I am leaning towards a door that is removed instead of hinged due to weight issues for the size doors I want. I think if hinged they will both be too large (in the way) and put too much stress on the enclosure. Instead I am thinking of having the whole panel be held in place with N50 Neodymium magnets. This will keep it in place yet also allow it to be removed and easy access for large prints (the kind I will be making for my projects). Once I have the enclosure finished I will start work on the environmental control system.

I just ordered my CNC mill last night so there will be a small delay when it arrives and I get it built and set up. Once that is done though I should be able to fast track the control system. But I am still looking at a few weeks before I have that aspect up and running in a BETA mode. I am going to use the peltier to heat/cool a closed loop water heat exchange system. The system will first remove the water in the build area then heat the chamber to the desired temp. At least that is the thought process. I need more test to see how it holds up in practice.

I am thinking of offering the enclosure as a kit for the Max V2. The filament chamber and the dehumidifier are being designed so they can be added at any time to the base system. Not everyone will need all aspects of my design. It will also allow someone to add them later as time and funds allow. I often have to buy bits and pieces of projects as funds allow so i am trying to design that concept in from the start so it can be used by far more people.

Well... I have a 21 hour print on the platter right now with over 8 hours left to go... So I guess I have no reason not to get back on the CAD design and decide on a joint system and move everything forward.

[Jimustanguitar]

Looking forward to seeing the pic of the RAMBO wires.

[img]http://i.imgur.com/2AmKIgd.png[/img]

[img]http://i.imgur.com/EnKKTRy.png[/img]

[crocky]

I picked these little guys up off Ebay after doing a bit of research on here and I few other spots. They were easy to mount and....

How many of the dampeners did you use, I see the three on the tower motors. Did you use one on the fourth motor as well?

Thanks

[travelphotog]

I just used the three on the towers and we LOVE them! Not sure if it would do much good on the Fourth motor really due to how it is mounted.

[teoman]

Any updates on your dehumidifier?

[Eaglezsoar]

I just used the three on the towers and we LOVE them! Not sure if it would do much good on the Fourth motor really due to how it is mounted.

Most users use the dampers on the 3 axis and have noticed a tremendous reduction in sound. Only a few users put a damper on the extruder and it did not make it a whole lot

quieter as the axis dampers did.

[teoman]

Would an enclosure help with noise or amplify noise? Probably depends on design.

[travelphotog]

The style I am building will not help much with noise I am afraid. Currently I am doing a redesign of a few aspects of mine. After working with my printer none stop for a few weeks I can see a few flaws I need to fix. I should have a few changes knocked out shortly.

My CNC mill came in and I have been busy printing parts (drag chain and such) for it along with putting it together and getting it calibrated. Sorry I have been away for so long. I will try to drop back by this weekend if I can.

[bdjohns1]

The style I am building will not help much with noise I am afraid.

I'm currently building an enclosure based on rymnd's design. One thing I'm doing is putting rubber washers between the brackets and the plexiglass so vibrations don't make the plexi resonate.

[crocky]

Looking forward to seeing the pic of the RAMBO wires.

[img]http://i.imgur.com/2AmKIgd.png[/img]

I like the crimp connectors on the power cables, I am stealing the idea too

Thanks....

[travelphotog]

This is what has been keeping my away so much. New CNC mill arrived at last!

Hey Guys,

Sorry i have been away so much of late. A few days ago the CNC mill arrived and I have been working like mad to build a new work station for it, shoot a ton of photo shoots for work and get the CNC mill put together. The Rostock has been printing doing the very thing I bought it for, printing things for the CNC. I've been keep the Rostock busy with all sorts of items for the CNC mill set up. I've printed a TON of drag chain and Misc parts for limit switches and such. I have the CNC finished up by this weekend for the Geek Gathering here in Houston. I will be away a bit more while I finish this up.

On a good note though... All this printing has really made me understand even more about using my printer and how I need to change a few things on the enclosure. I even solved a nagging issue I had the other day while at the store picking up CNC supplies. I've found the way to join the sections of the enclosure which I like and can be easily done by others. I just got in a few new rolls of black PLA today so I can get back to printing the BETA pieces and run the last few tests before I print the whole thing.

Catch everyone in a few days.