A heel for a shoe, fly-screen stops and a folding knife

[McSlappy]

Just playing around in between calibrating, so keeping to small stuff that's not too hard to mess up.

My mum's heel on her shoe got lost, and you know what they say: A shoe without a heel is like Tarzan without his loin cloth.

Here's the gallery!
http://imgur.com/a/mD8ez/embed

[Eaglezsoar]

Good examples of practical applications for 3d printed parts. I am not sure about the 3D printed knife however, not too sharp.

[McSlappy]

Thanks.
Truth be told the heels failed straight away. I think something like this is better suited to a more flexible filament. PLA just wont cut it.

The knife is not sharp no, but rather pointy, it's a perfect tool for my kids to blind themselves on :/

It was more an experiment in .1 layer height printing, and looking at how others have done a rotating joint.

All in all very fun learning experiments!

[Eaglezsoar]

Thanks.
Truth be told the heels failed straight away. I think something like this is better suited to a more flexible filament. PLA just wont cut it.

The knife is not sharp no, but rather pointy, it's a perfect tool for my kids to blind themselves on :/

It was more an experiment in .1 layer height printing, and looking at how others have done a rotating joint.

All in all very fun learning experiments!

Nothing wrong with experimenting, that's how we all learn and when you post it on the forum with pictures we all learn especially with a followup message like this one.
Experiment away and have fun doing it!

[neurascenic]

Thanks.
Truth be told the heels failed straight away. I think something like this is better suited to a more flexible filament. PLA just wont cut it.

The knife is not sharp no, but rather pointy, it's a perfect tool for my kids to blind themselves on :/

It was more an experiment in .1 layer height printing, and looking at how others have done a rotating joint.

All in all very fun learning experiments!

This is where making a mold of your print and casting it takes over. I am lucky enough to have a
http://www.reynoldsam.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
in my town. They sell pretty much anything you would need for such a thing. (no, I am not affiliated)

I would use a silicone to make the mold, then use a medium Durometer (Shore A - 90) PolyUrethane for the final part.
http://www.customsealandrubber.com/durometercharts.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Making a mold of this would be no problem, could do it with a 1 part mold (cast it upside down)
Too, I have been considering how to finish the model in the simplest way possible. Still working that out though... Need my printer running!

You can get small kits that have both of the components in it from Smooth-on. Though the casting medium might be a bit hard, it would be a great place to start messing around with this kind of thing.
http://www.smooth-on.com/Getting-Starte ... index.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;



Cheers!

[Captain Starfish]

Why (just curious) not just design the part, subtract it from a filled in box and print the resultant mould before filling that directly with the PU?

[neurascenic]

Why (just curious) not just design the part, subtract it from a filled in box and print the resultant mould before filling that directly with the PU?

Suppose you could, one would have to make sure that there is enough of a draft angle so that the texture of the print would not lock the part in.
That angle might need to be fairly steep. Or, you could make the mold a two parter, still with an open face.

with Silicone, you can actually have a negative draft (to a point) and still pull the part.

My reason would be to gain skills so that you could start making more complicated molds. For me, I know there will be a time when the durability of my prints just won't suffice, but a nice resin casting would.

Casting skills, I think, will enhance printing.

[geneb]

Another option may be to print the object hollow and then drill a small hole in order to fill the part with resin.

g.