[Solved] Print 3dlabprint Airplanes and Rostock Max - any success?

[DeweyOxberger]

I printed one wing section. The outer shell has no voids but it is a little variable in its xy placement. I have no idea what would cause that. It is also stringy. Oddly enough this forum won't allow .fff files so I'll call it .txt, rename it. The part weighs in at 1 gram less than expected.

[DeweyOxberger]

So that wing half was printed with 1.5mm retract, 25mm/s, 4mm lift, 0.2mm extra, coast of 0.5mm. Hairy.

I'm doing the next wing segment with 2.5mm retract, 50mm/s. Change all the variables at once, that's my moto

[DeweyOxberger]

Thanks for everyone for all the good advice. So I've learned several things here:

1) My bowden tube wasn't all the way down. I followed Zob's excellent post to fix it. Here is his post:

As Noircogi says this is likely an issue with the Bowden tube not being pushed into the hot end far enough. I had exactly this problem early on with the v3. My tube was 7mm+ shy of the nozzle endstop. what happens then is that melted material creeps back past the heat break and grabs the incoming filament.

I resolved the problem by first clearing the lump in the nozzle. This can be done by feeding some filament normally by printing something small then let the nozzle cool with the filament in place. Remove the Bowden tube, sliding it back up over the filament. Next heat the nozzle again while maintaining a firm pull on the filament. As the heat softens the plastic it will eventually pull out with the obstructing plug on the end of the filament. if this plug is the same diameter as the OD of the Bowden tube you'll know your Bowden tube wasn't seated properly. you might need to remove the collet to get the plug out if it comes away at an angle. Prize it gently out with your fingers.

To seat the Bowden tube properly first check it is cut *exactly* square then use a matchstick or similar to plumb the depth of the nozzle. I used a bamboo barbecue skewer. Then mark the depth on the Bowden tube with a small piece of electrical tape. Finally, reinsert the Bowden tube and make sure it goes all the way in. Push the collet down as you feed and maintain pressure on the tube as you lift the fixing collet. Take care not to move the tape as it won't stick to the tube well.

Zob

Here is what I found. The blob at the end is about 2mm long. The tube wasn't all the way down. Once I pulled everything apart I also found the tube had some stringy garbage it it (left over from when the bowden tube was extruded I presume).

With the plug cleared it's works amazingly well. Seriously. The Rostock Max V3 seems totally up to the task of printing these planes.


2) MatterControl vs Simplify3D. S3D does a better job on creating less chaotic g-code but I really hate it's machine control UI compared to MatterControl. It's probably because I didn't set something up right. The version I'm using doesn't know the Rostock Max V3 so I have had to create everything from scratch. I'll go back to MC and try it again (once I've finished a plane).

[geneb]

I use S3D, but not for machine control. Save the gcode off and copy it to the SD card. Works great.

g.

[DeweyOxberger]

That is what I'm settling into; use S3D as the gcode generator.

[nitewatchman]

Here is someone who had success but he had to use S3D to pull it off:

http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... int#p74148

That would be me.

I use S3D for everything. Contrary to what you may hear and read, I find it the most controllable and predictable of the lot. I have since printed a couple of Spits, Mustangs, Easyone and now queuing up the P-38. Using S3D I have used the factory files system to generate reinforced flanges on the ends of the segments and placed stiffening formers in the center of the sections. Makes a much stronger and stiffer plane. I can share a sample factory file showing the technique if you like.

gary

[DeweyOxberger]

Share a factory file - That would be awesome. Anything that will improve durability is great. Thanks

[nitewatchman]

Attached are sample .factory files for S3D to print part of the P-51 Mustang. These have reinforced flanges and intermediate stiffeners. This was done by manipulating the processes within the .factory file. Fuselage 3 is a plain printed section, Fuselage 4 is in seven sections using silver, white and black PLA to create the invasion stripes. Run one print, change filament to the different color run the stripe, change filament, etc., etc.. Printing for the skin is single layer .42mm thick with an E3D at 130mm/sec.

To use the files, rename the file changing the .txt extension to .factory. If you want to print the plane I encourage you to purchase the flies from 3D Lab Print. They are really pumping out the planes with a recent P-38 and a Japanese Serian Submarine Float Plane.

The stiffeners and flanges add weight and effect performance but significantly improve durability in an unplanned air to earth incursion. To repair small breaks in the PLA, I use Golden West Super Solvent. Originally intended to remove CA glue this solvent will fusion weld PLA the same as acetone on ABS.

gary

[MrJoe]

Gary, Thank you for taking the time to explain your process and post those files. The plane looks great.
I just updated my printer and plan on printing the P38 once I get it all dialed in.

[DeweyOxberger]

Attached are sample .factory files for S3D to print part of the P-51 Mustang.

That is just what I needed! Thanks for the help. And thanks for the heads up on Golden West Super Solvent.

I bagged the P47 and P51 on his Christmas sale. I'm starting with the P47.

You are running the perimeter at 130 mm/sec?

[nitewatchman]

The factory files should have that, outline is 70%.

[timskloss]

To repair small breaks in the PLA, I use Golden West Super Solvent. Originally intended to remove CA glue this solvent will fusion weld PLA the same as acetone on ABS.gary

FYI, I just looked up the MSDS for the super solvent. It is 100% nitromethane, or top dragster fuel.

[geneb]

At 10%-25% mixed with castor oil, it also makes a great model airplane engine fuel.

g.