Mike
PS: Outline done in Google mail. Haven't figured out how to copy and paste this into the forum message window and preserve all the formatting. Any hints?
===============================
Buy assembled or kit, buy parts, or make parts:
<Qdeathstar> The only reason is to source your own parts and not build it a kit is to build a high quality machine. If you do want to build your own machine, I'd suggest using nicer components.
<me> That's one. Others are to add flexibility, innovation and to learn/teach the engineering issues in the process
But agree on pursuit of accuracy (and careful measurement and engineering analysis to focus on the key factors).<Polygonhell> If you've never built and setup a printer before I'd strongly suggest you start with a kit or at least someones proven design
<me> Hey, it's a research project
<teoman> I have built robots that have only a couple of nanometers resolution. So I have a little bit of experience with building stuff. Get a kit.
<me> For your general audience, agreed. But I have a PhD in computational physics, my own machine shop, yada yada.... Fools rush in.... The journey is its own reward, etc.
Goal is learning by making a printer, not making prints.Starting point:
<me> Rostock Max v2 or v3?
<Xenocrates> Use v2. v3 not ready yet.
<me> Proceed with v2 CAD files, etc.
Mechanical -- case (actually uprights, plus top and bottom):
<me> Have high-quality rails (aluminum "T" extrusion, plus hardened steel 1/2" dia. rod)
<Xenocrates> Use v2. v3 not ready yet. All metal is good. (Kossel mini with machined corners, Flux)
<me> Proceed with my rails, even though I'll need to develop the skates.
Mechanical -- platform:
<me> Heated? Material?
<Xenocrates> Yes. Silicone mat or PCB heater. Use 24v power supply.
<Eric> You don't have to start out with a heated bed, but allow for adding one later.
<me> Include heated bed (or provision for same).
Moving parts -- skates:
<me> Made to fit my rails. Bearing size? Plastic to reduce noise?
<Xenocrates> Use IGUS polymer bearings. e.g., LMU88 for standard linear bearing size.
<Eric> Consider buying SeeMe's carriage sets. They'll go on 1-inch T-slot.
<me> IGUS bearings look neat, but too expensive. Will experiment with regular bearings, with and without "tires". (Note: linear bearing can't be used because my rods are mounted to the T-rail.)
Moving parts -- rods and balljoints::
<me> Expect to use carbon fiber tubing and metal balljoints.
<Xenocrates> Consider using Seeme's OEM solution. With the Traxxas solution, talk to Brian at Trick-laser, etc.
<CodonExe> SeeMeCNC effector and ball joints.
<Eric> Consider SeeMe's balljoint/arm sets.
<me> Will experiment with import parts. (Have dial indicator sensitive to 0.0001".)
Moving parts -- belts and pulleys:
<me> Same as current Rostock?
<Xenocrates> Go for the same GT2 belt and smallest available driven pulleys that give you a round number resolution.
<Eric> Spectra fishing line is an alternative to traditional belts. Or leadscrews
<me> OK, GT2 belt and figure out pulleys.
Moving parts -- flying platform:
<me> Make it adaptable?
<Xenocrates> Use the same mounting pattern as the Rostock max.
<CodonExe> MakerHives yellow jacket quick connect boards for light weight easy hotend change out.
<Eric> Once you have a printer, you can print an adapter mount for whatever you need.
<me> Will check out quick connect boards.
Moving parts -- steppers:
<me> Same as current Rostock, or larger?
<Xenocrates> The size isn't the issue with acceleration. Current and voltage are. Use either 1.8 (Cheap) or .9 (precise) NEMA 17 steppers. Worry about sufficient heat sinking on drivers.
<me> Have some steppers, but will probably get new NEMA 17s.
Moving parts -- extruder:
<me> Case-mounted or floating extruder? With Bowden tube.
<Xenocrates> Low mass, the Titan by E3D wins. For the absolute best, the Bondtech QR is king.
<Eric> Do a search in this forum. There's a few threads.
<me> Machined a Wade's geared extruder out of aluminum a few years ago. But will engage in a new research project on this.
Thermal -- Platform:
<me> Heated? How? Material?
<Xenocrates> PCB and silicone are the best options. You could also make a nichrome (Toaster wire) heat element.
<CodonExe> Heated. Design and etch your own PCB. Material: multi-layer: PCB heating element, heat spreader made of copper or aluminum, borosilicate glass, PEI sheet.
<Eric> So many options, This is one of the greatest areas of experimentation in the search for the best compromise between adhesion and being able to remove the print when done.
<Qdeathstar> Design for a heated bed ... off the bat.
<me> Will investigate further...
Thermal -- hotend:
<me> Make or buy?
<Xenocrates> Buy official versions only. I very much like the E3D V6. Or Prometheus by Distich Automation for most total flexibility. Genuine Hotends.com J-heads are the kings of PLA.
<CodonExe> I use SeeMeCNC hotend and E3D V6 and E3D volcano hotends.
<Eric> E3D or Promethus are some of the better all-metal ones on the market. Don't try to make your own.
<me> Will investigate named options.
Electronics -- power supply:
<me> No problem. Will build into base.
<Xenocrates> I suggest 24VDC here.
<Eric> Single-voltage supplies are a lot easier to deal with than PC supplies
<me> Tentatively will use 24v for heaters, 5v for electronics.
Electronics -- controller board:
<me> RAMBo? Non-integrated solution?
<Xenocrates> If you don't like the Rambo, the RAMPS (Modular version of it), or the RADDS (modular Duet).
<CodonExe> Duet (you can use your stepper drivers if you want)
<Eric> Mega2560+RAMPS+drivers solution is by far the cheapest, and functionally about the same as the Rambo board. You lose is the ability to set the driver output in software. Some people have switched to ARM-based controllers(e.g. Smoothie board or Duet),
<me> Definitely will check out ARM-based controllers.
Electronics -- LCD:
<me> ???
<Xenocrates> The Smart LCD controller that SeemeCNC ships works fine, the Paneldue touch LCD driver is even nicer (but isn't well supported by the Rambo/Ramps/non-Due based firmware)
<Eric> Reprapdiscount LCD/SD/controller panels are cheap.
<me> Depends on controller.
Electronics -- SD reader:
<me> ???
<Xenocrates> Smart LCD controller includes one. The Paneldue paired with a suggested panel and the new beta Duet board also provide another.
<Eric> Included in above LCD panels.
<me> Depends on controller.
Firmware:
<me> Marlin?
<Xenocrates> Marlin is far from ideal for a delta printer. Repeater offers better EEPROM integration for calibration without re-compiling, but the Rep-Rap firmware for the Duet family of hardware is best for deltas.
<CodonExe> dc42's fork.
<Eric> There is no best, only what you choose. You can try them all. Marlin is one of the more supported firmwares out there. Repeater is what most of the people in this forum use.
<me> Depends on the selected controller.
Enclosure:
<CodonExe> I think you forgot about this.
<Qdeathstar> Design for an enclosure... off the bat.
<me> Do you mean plastic windows for thermal/draft control? Or a travel case (which I plan to build)?
Mechanical -- auto-level platform:
<Qdeathstar> Design for ... auto level off the bat.
<me> Do you mean a mechanically adjustable platform, or a carefully-aligned, fixed platform with automatic sensing and calibration of the 3D geometry calculations? Suspect the latter, which implies the addition of a proximity sensor to the hotend. Designs? And just by chance, for my day job i've been looking at a new TI chip that's a very sensitive proximity sensor
