Case looks beautiful. Now if you would just make a version for the raspberry pi B+, which is the only one most people should be buying at this point...
Thanks everyone. Since I'm in the process of designing/building 2 more printers I'm also looking at getting a couple more small print server computers. Likely one will be a B+ and the other will be either a Banana Pi or Beagle Bone Black. No matter what, they will all need cases so I will likely have more designs roll out based off this one.
I also still need to design and make my Rostock Max to Vesa 75mm mounting plate. Planning on incorporating a USB power bus into it so that I can run the server directly off the printer's power. That way I can run my printer from basically anywhere and only require a single plug in the wall.
Current Machines || Rostock Max (V1) | V3DR || Previous Machines || Flashforge Creator Pro ||
Raspberry pi version 2 is out, it is 4 times faster!!
I have ordered one to have a fiddle with, supposedly going to be compatible with Windows 10 version and a Ubuntu as well... Lots more power than the present ones...
Bob
Rostock Max V2, Ball Cup Arms, New Carriages, HE280, Dampers, PSU Breathing, Simplify 3D, GeckoTek3D, Raspberry Pi3. Duet soon... Kossel Mini still under construction.
Delta's are the way!
crocky wrote:Raspberry pi version 2 is out, it is 4 times faster!!
I have ordered one to have a fiddle with, supposedly going to be compatible with Windows 10 version and a Ubuntu as well... Lots more power than the present ones...
Thanks for the heads up! Ordering one right now.
I'll also start modifying my case design to work for the Pi 1 Model B+ and new Pi 2 Model B (it's awesome that they use the same form factor).
Current Machines || Rostock Max (V1) | V3DR || Previous Machines || Flashforge Creator Pro ||
Thought you may be taking the chance with the new one.... I have got one on order too...
Windows 10 will be good as well when it is available, this should be a pretty good jigger to play with
Bob
Rostock Max V2, Ball Cup Arms, New Carriages, HE280, Dampers, PSU Breathing, Simplify 3D, GeckoTek3D, Raspberry Pi3. Duet soon... Kossel Mini still under construction.
Delta's are the way!
crocky wrote:Thought you may be taking the chance with the new one.... I have got one on order too...
Windows 10 will be good as well when it is available, this should be a pretty good jigger to play with
I just want one that will run 2 printers and a camera simultaneously with the new version or repeteir-server. My current Model B wouldn't stand a chance.
Current Machines || Rostock Max (V1) | V3DR || Previous Machines || Flashforge Creator Pro ||
The Pi 2 should be able to do that without much trouble.
I have had mine for a couple of days now and it is running repetier-server and I am happy with its performance
Still got to play the camera yet.
Bob
Rostock Max V2, Ball Cup Arms, New Carriages, HE280, Dampers, PSU Breathing, Simplify 3D, GeckoTek3D, Raspberry Pi3. Duet soon... Kossel Mini still under construction.
Delta's are the way!
0110-m-p wrote:Thanks for the heads up! Ordering one right now.
I'll also start modifying my case design to work for the Pi 1 Model B+ and new Pi 2 Model B (it's awesome that they use the same form factor).
0110-m-p wrote:Thanks everyone. Since I'm in the process of designing/building 2 more printers I'm also looking at getting a couple more small print server computers. Likely one will be a B+ and the other will be either a Banana Pi or Beagle Bone Black. No matter what, they will all need cases so I will likely have more designs roll out based off this one.
I also still need to design and make my Rostock Max to Vesa 75mm mounting plate. Planning on incorporating a USB power bus into it so that I can run the server directly off the printer's power. That way I can run my printer from basically anywhere and only require a single plug in the wall.
Any chance that I could prod you to finish the pi2 version of the case? A version with an integrated USB power bus would be awesome, too. I just went out and bought some molex connectors and a USB hub with a power connector I can steal (cheaper than trying to source just the 3.5mm plug) to do just this. I plan on making a molex -> micro usb for pi power and molex -> 3.5mm barrel connector for USB hub power (probably off the same molex for easier connecting).
From one Rotorhead to another, that is beautiful! I'm a LEGO guy and am amazed at the pure creativity I've seen in this post, in this forum. Truly inspiring!
ZakRabbit wrote:From one Rotorhead to another, that is beautiful! I'm a LEGO guy and am amazed at the pure creativity I've seen in this post, in this forum. Truly inspiring!
Thanks, always good to know other rotary guys are floating around.
geneb wrote:That's an excellent design! Even better, it's nice to look at!
g.
Thanks Gene.
Current Machines || Rostock Max (V1) | V3DR || Previous Machines || Flashforge Creator Pro ||
RostockMAX v2 (Stock)
MAX METAL "ShortyMAX"
MAX METAL Rostock MAX Printer Frame
NEMESIS Air Delta v1 & v2 -Aluminum delta printers
Rostock MAX "KITT" - Tri-Force Frame
GRABER i3 "Slim"
Thanks for the kind words guys, definitely put more time into this case than I expected to.
As far as designs go, I'm hoping to have my small delta printer design done soon as well, the V3DR, which is a ground up redesign of RichRap's RepRap 3DR. It's my "under $500 with no crappy components" printer design.
Figured I would share some updates about the Pi 2 case since it has been pretty popular...sitting at over 27000 views and just hit 7800 downloads right now. Also, I just finished importing and building my designs in Fusion 360, so I have some renders as well.
The third case bottom design was done because I needed it. It eliminates the VESA mounts and adds ears to mount the case directly to an aluminum extrusion (8020/Misumi/V-slot) using M5 hardware.
Eaglezsoar wrote:That's cool! I did not know you could dye the parts after they have been printed.
Thanks for the great info and pictures.
The only thing I see so far is that it softened the nylon significantly and the parts are way more flexible than they were pre-dye. Not sure if this is because of the moisture content now in the nylon, but I'm hoping that it will stiffen up again if I let it sit a few days. If not, I may bake them in the over at 200F for a few hours to dry them out.
Also, I highly recommend no body try this with ABS unless you have a thermometer in the water the whole time and don't let it exceed 180-190F. Also, thin ABS parts warp FAST and permanently.
throw them in some dessicsant for a day or so, it should suck the water out of the nylon.
Tom C
MAX V1
325 MM carbon arms trick trucks effector mount LED ring heat spreader
Corvair750
V6 Hotend
Robo 3D
Flashforge creator http://WWW.TeslagenX.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; - Bedini experimenter kits, books, DVD's