iPhone 4 case

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michaellatif
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iPhone 4 case

Post by michaellatif »

Hey all,

Here is a set of prints I did last night to replace a failing griffin iPhone 4 case.
The prints came out really well, a friend saw my case and wanted one for his iPhone.

I got the stl file from thingiverse. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:22572
IMG_0423.JPG
IMG_0424.JPG
IMG_0425.JPG
IMG_0426.JPG
IMG_0427.JPG
Mike Latif
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Re: iPhone 4 case

Post by JTCUSTOMS »

Very nice Michael! are you using abs? 3mm or 1.75
I cant wait to get prints looking like those!
JTCUSTOMS

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michaellatif
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Re: iPhone 4 case

Post by michaellatif »

Thanks! I am using ABS 1.75mm. I have been fortunate that the same Slic3r settings (http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=33) are usable for everything I have printed so far.
I just use the Repetier's speed slide to increase the speed or decrease, so no need to mess with the settings.

It took me a while to get all the axis dialed in to allow for precise prints. The main one I used to calibrate my x and y axis is the 1/4 circle nickle print (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:11261). I followed the instructions and was able to print 30mm test cube to within ~.1mm.
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bvandiepenbos
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Re: iPhone 4 case

Post by bvandiepenbos »

Looks really good.
How did you keep it flat and not curling up from bed?
Heated bed?

Thanks for the info on your settings and calibration.
I need to calibrate mine yet.
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michaellatif
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Re: iPhone 4 case

Post by michaellatif »

Thanks Brian.

Yep, heated bed, nichrome wire design (http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=43&t=491) running at ~110C.
Prints stay flat and they seem to stick better to Kapton tape.
One thing I have found helps is that I use a Lysol/Clorox wipe to clean the print surface every 2-3 prints or when prints start to not stick and it makes a huge difference with it sticking to the tape.

It sounds like the John and Steve at SeeMeCNC are going to be selling an upgraded/add-on HPB. Can't wait to see what they have come up with!
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Re: iPhone 4 case

Post by tom10122 »

wow looks good, a case is one of the things i wanna make when i get one, im gonna add horns to it because i can :)
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mhackney
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Re: iPhone 4 case

Post by mhackney »

Great case Chris, that is going to be my next project in that cool green I have.

cheers,
Michael

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Re: iPhone 4 case

Post by JTCUSTOMS »

This is one I have tried to print several times. 1.75mm black abs
looks great till I get to the bridging sections then goes all to !@#$
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Re: iPhone 4 case

Post by johnoly99 »

:lol: Cause it's an Iphone. IF it was for an android phone, it wouldn't hurt as much
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Re: iPhone 4 case

Post by michaellatif »

johnoly99 wrote::lol: Cause it's an Iphone. IF it was for an android phone, it wouldn't hurt as much
LOL :lol:
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Re: iPhone 4 case

Post by mhackney »

I printed my first attempt of this case tonight in ABS. The first layers seemed to go down great but then I started to get curl. This was with a heated bed and blue tape. I've noticed that even with the heated bed I still get curling on large flat surfaces like this. Perhaps blue tape is not the best. I do usually wipe the tape with acetone before printing but not always. Might need to try some other things. The case would have been perfect if not for the warping which caused the sides to be too short at the corners.

cheers,
Michael

Sublime Layers - my blog on Musings and Experiments in 3D Printing Technology and Art

Start Here:
A Strategy for Successful (and Great) Prints

Strategies for Resolving Print Artifacts

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Re: iPhone 4 case

Post by michaellatif »

This case seems to be temperamental when it comes to curling, most of the time Kapton tape and a rubbing alcohol wipe work and once in a while nothing I do will make the print stick and the edges curl. . . Most other prints either stick ok or not at all :-).
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Re: iPhone 4 case

Post by JTCUSTOMS »

i use a little abs glue on larger (base) prints, mixed pretty thin.
Then I wipe it off with acetone when done. My heated bed gets a little hotter in a 4" square in the center.
But I warn you that it is MUCH harder to remove prints after, if you are using Kapton over glass I would let the item cool all the way down before trying to
remove it. I have pulled air bubbles into the tape that way.
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Re: iPhone 4 case

Post by mhackney »

I did another print last night with clean tape and fresh acetone wipe. It did not curl but it stuck to the tape and I couldn't pull it off! I might need to lower the temp of my hot bed. The part looked awesome though. The new "random starting point" option in Slic3r is great.

cheers,
Michael

Sublime Layers - my blog on Musings and Experiments in 3D Printing Technology and Art

Start Here:
A Strategy for Successful (and Great) Prints

Strategies for Resolving Print Artifacts

The Eclectic Angler
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