iPhone 4 case
- michaellatif
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iPhone 4 case
Hey all,
Here is a set of prints I did last night to replace a failing griffin iPhone 4 case.
The prints came out really well, a friend saw my case and wanted one for his iPhone.
I got the stl file from thingiverse. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:22572
Here is a set of prints I did last night to replace a failing griffin iPhone 4 case.
The prints came out really well, a friend saw my case and wanted one for his iPhone.
I got the stl file from thingiverse. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:22572
Mike Latif
H-1 #3
H-1 #3
Re: iPhone 4 case
Very nice Michael! are you using abs? 3mm or 1.75
I cant wait to get prints looking like those!
I cant wait to get prints looking like those!
JTCUSTOMS
“Things may come to those who wait...but only the things left by those who hustle.” Abraham Lincoln
“Things may come to those who wait...but only the things left by those who hustle.” Abraham Lincoln
- michaellatif
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Re: iPhone 4 case
Thanks! I am using ABS 1.75mm. I have been fortunate that the same Slic3r settings (http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=33) are usable for everything I have printed so far.
I just use the Repetier's speed slide to increase the speed or decrease, so no need to mess with the settings.
It took me a while to get all the axis dialed in to allow for precise prints. The main one I used to calibrate my x and y axis is the 1/4 circle nickle print (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:11261). I followed the instructions and was able to print 30mm test cube to within ~.1mm.
I just use the Repetier's speed slide to increase the speed or decrease, so no need to mess with the settings.
It took me a while to get all the axis dialed in to allow for precise prints. The main one I used to calibrate my x and y axis is the 1/4 circle nickle print (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:11261). I followed the instructions and was able to print 30mm test cube to within ~.1mm.
Mike Latif
H-1 #3
H-1 #3
- bvandiepenbos
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Re: iPhone 4 case
Looks really good.
How did you keep it flat and not curling up from bed?
Heated bed?
Thanks for the info on your settings and calibration.
I need to calibrate mine yet.
How did you keep it flat and not curling up from bed?
Heated bed?
Thanks for the info on your settings and calibration.
I need to calibrate mine yet.
~*Brian V.
RostockMAX v2 (Stock)
MAX METAL "ShortyMAX"
MAX METAL Rostock MAX Printer Frame
NEMESIS Air Delta v1 & v2 -Aluminum delta printers
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RostockMAX v2 (Stock)
MAX METAL "ShortyMAX"
MAX METAL Rostock MAX Printer Frame
NEMESIS Air Delta v1 & v2 -Aluminum delta printers
Rostock MAX "KITT" - Tri-Force Frame
GRABER i3 "Slim"
- michaellatif
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- Joined: Mon Mar 26, 2012 1:34 pm
- Location: RTP, NC
Re: iPhone 4 case
Thanks Brian.
Yep, heated bed, nichrome wire design (http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=43&t=491) running at ~110C.
Prints stay flat and they seem to stick better to Kapton tape.
One thing I have found helps is that I use a Lysol/Clorox wipe to clean the print surface every 2-3 prints or when prints start to not stick and it makes a huge difference with it sticking to the tape.
It sounds like the John and Steve at SeeMeCNC are going to be selling an upgraded/add-on HPB. Can't wait to see what they have come up with!
Yep, heated bed, nichrome wire design (http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=43&t=491) running at ~110C.
Prints stay flat and they seem to stick better to Kapton tape.
One thing I have found helps is that I use a Lysol/Clorox wipe to clean the print surface every 2-3 prints or when prints start to not stick and it makes a huge difference with it sticking to the tape.
It sounds like the John and Steve at SeeMeCNC are going to be selling an upgraded/add-on HPB. Can't wait to see what they have come up with!
Mike Latif
H-1 #3
H-1 #3
Re: iPhone 4 case
wow looks good, a case is one of the things i wanna make when i get one, im gonna add horns to it because i can
Re: iPhone 4 case
Great case Chris, that is going to be my next project in that cool green I have.
cheers,
Michael
cheers,
Michael
Sublime Layers - my blog on Musings and Experiments in 3D Printing Technology and Art
Start Here:
A Strategy for Successful (and Great) Prints
Strategies for Resolving Print Artifacts
The Eclectic Angler
Re: iPhone 4 case
This is one I have tried to print several times. 1.75mm black abs
looks great till I get to the bridging sections then goes all to !@#$
looks great till I get to the bridging sections then goes all to !@#$
JTCUSTOMS
“Things may come to those who wait...but only the things left by those who hustle.” Abraham Lincoln
“Things may come to those who wait...but only the things left by those who hustle.” Abraham Lincoln
Re: iPhone 4 case
Cause it's an Iphone. IF it was for an android phone, it wouldn't hurt as much
- michaellatif
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Re: iPhone 4 case
LOLjohnoly99 wrote: Cause it's an Iphone. IF it was for an android phone, it wouldn't hurt as much
Mike Latif
H-1 #3
H-1 #3
Re: iPhone 4 case
I printed my first attempt of this case tonight in ABS. The first layers seemed to go down great but then I started to get curl. This was with a heated bed and blue tape. I've noticed that even with the heated bed I still get curling on large flat surfaces like this. Perhaps blue tape is not the best. I do usually wipe the tape with acetone before printing but not always. Might need to try some other things. The case would have been perfect if not for the warping which caused the sides to be too short at the corners.
cheers,
Michael
cheers,
Michael
Sublime Layers - my blog on Musings and Experiments in 3D Printing Technology and Art
Start Here:
A Strategy for Successful (and Great) Prints
Strategies for Resolving Print Artifacts
The Eclectic Angler
- michaellatif
- Printmaster!
- Posts: 357
- Joined: Mon Mar 26, 2012 1:34 pm
- Location: RTP, NC
Re: iPhone 4 case
This case seems to be temperamental when it comes to curling, most of the time Kapton tape and a rubbing alcohol wipe work and once in a while nothing I do will make the print stick and the edges curl. . . Most other prints either stick ok or not at all .
Mike Latif
H-1 #3
H-1 #3
Re: iPhone 4 case
i use a little abs glue on larger (base) prints, mixed pretty thin.
Then I wipe it off with acetone when done. My heated bed gets a little hotter in a 4" square in the center.
But I warn you that it is MUCH harder to remove prints after, if you are using Kapton over glass I would let the item cool all the way down before trying to
remove it. I have pulled air bubbles into the tape that way.
Then I wipe it off with acetone when done. My heated bed gets a little hotter in a 4" square in the center.
But I warn you that it is MUCH harder to remove prints after, if you are using Kapton over glass I would let the item cool all the way down before trying to
remove it. I have pulled air bubbles into the tape that way.
JTCUSTOMS
“Things may come to those who wait...but only the things left by those who hustle.” Abraham Lincoln
“Things may come to those who wait...but only the things left by those who hustle.” Abraham Lincoln
Re: iPhone 4 case
I did another print last night with clean tape and fresh acetone wipe. It did not curl but it stuck to the tape and I couldn't pull it off! I might need to lower the temp of my hot bed. The part looked awesome though. The new "random starting point" option in Slic3r is great.
cheers,
Michael
cheers,
Michael
Sublime Layers - my blog on Musings and Experiments in 3D Printing Technology and Art
Start Here:
A Strategy for Successful (and Great) Prints
Strategies for Resolving Print Artifacts
The Eclectic Angler