Split Flex Tubing - Rostock MAX - and a few other questions

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Craftgizmos
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Split Flex Tubing - Rostock MAX - and a few other questions

Post by Craftgizmos »

How many feet of the split tubing do I need, and what size? Shown in step 23.8 of the manual - which is super helpful, thanks.

Is there a size specification for the crimp-on wire nuts? Do I need only two for the hot end?

Is this - "Permatex/3 oz. (85 g.) tube Ultra Copper maximum temperature RTV silicone gasket maker" - what I need? This is available at AutoZone near me. Or do I need the specific one labeled "High Temp"?

I'm still confused about the extra hole in the black bracket for the u-joints on the arm plate - the black bracket has two holes parallel to the T-rails, one is closer to the arm plate, one is further away from the arm plate. If I install the bracket with the further away hole on the right, do I still need to drill the extra hole?

geneb
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Re: Split Flex Tubing - Rostock MAX - and a few other questi

Post by geneb »

Craftgizmos, the length of split tubing depends on how your route your wiring from the hot end. What I did was tape one end of the tubing to the hot end and then walked it along the wire path until I reached the point where the wires would enter the base. That's the point I cut it. You may have a bit extra, but that won't hurt.

The wire nuts should have an inner diameter of about 3/16" or so. You may want to go ahead and remove ALL the plastic so you only have the crimp ring left. Crimp it and insulate it with Kapton tape.

The Permatex you found is the correct material - I purchased the same material from MY local AutoZone. :)
The label on my tube reads, "Ultra Copper sensor-safe high temp rtv silicone gasket maker" on the front.

Take a look at page 58 in the manual. It shows a photo of the adjustment screw next to an end-stop switch. You want to position the bracket such that the hole closer to the machine is to your right if you're holding the Cheapskate facing you. This will ensure that the adjustment screw will engage the end-stop switch as I have it shown there.
If your bracket has two holes, there's no additional holes to drill.

I'm glad you like the manual! I wrote that as I assembled my machine, so it was pretty much done in real-time with the assembly. :)

I'll try to keep a closer eye here to catch any other questions from folks.

g.
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Craftgizmos
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Re: Split Flex Tubing - Rostock MAX - and a few other questi

Post by Craftgizmos »

Thanks geneb -

If I get 6' would that be enough? I've also seen it in 10' packs, but right now I don't know what I'll find. What diameter is reasonable, I've seen 1/4", 3/8", 1/2", 3/4" and 1". I'm sure the 1" is too big.

My bracket has two holes, but it looks like I put the hole further away to the right because someone else said that the belt clamp got in the way, and as I hold it up, it looks like it will line up.

Can I use a dab of the Permatex to insulate the crimp nuts?

Kapton tape is not yet in my toolkit.

geneb
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Re: Split Flex Tubing - Rostock MAX - and a few other questi

Post by geneb »

Six feet is more than enough. I use 3/8" as that's what I had handy. There's plenty of room in there for the wiring.

It sounds like you've got the bracket mounted properly. If you are still concerned about it, post a picture and I'll take a look.

You can use RTV to insulate the leads. However, if you want to use tape, AutoZone sells a product called "WrapIt Repair Self-Fusing Silicone Tape". It's rated to 500F and will run you about $9. I used that to wrap the crimp rings after I had to repair the wiring on my hot-end.

I posted an update to the manual yesterday - it's at http://www.geneb.org/rostock-max/rostoc ... manual.pdf - that edition includes the calibration section that I finished yesterday.

g.
Delta Power!
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Craftgizmos
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Re: Split Flex Tubing - Rostock MAX - and a few other questi

Post by Craftgizmos »

Thanks again,

I had good success at AutoZone. Got the 3/8" flex in 10' length, crimp nuts, and RTV, in the store the RTV name is a little different than what shows up on their website. I asked them about silicone tape and they drew a blank, I'll try again with your exact name.

What about insulating the crimp ring with shrink tube? 2 smaller on the leads and 1 bigger going around it?

Why did you have to repair the wiring on your hot-end?

Richard

geneb
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Re: Split Flex Tubing - Rostock MAX - and a few other questi

Post by geneb »

You don't want to use heat-shrink tubing on the hot end anywhere unless it's rated for at least 260C.

The wiring was damaged because the knurled nut at the top came loose over a number of heating & cooling cycles. I've added a note in the manual to take special care to monitor that nut. You might want to try some Blue Lock-Tite when you put it together to prevent it from backing off due to heat cycles.

g.
Delta Power!
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