My Boro Build Plate Chipped AGAIN?!?!

[noishi]

Can anyone provide insight on what I am doing wrong? I'm on my second boro glass build plate and just chipped it. I've had my rostock max for around 5 months, I think I am doing something wrong when either applying the elmers glue or removing the print. I use standards elmers glue, let the plate cool all the way to room temp, and usually wash my build plate after every print or two. I usually use my spatuala to remove the print, although sometimes if I print a tall piece I'll just push on horizontally on the top of the print to pull it off. My removal method is the only thing I really suspect, but I cant wrap my head around elmers glue being able to pull apart glass . Both times the chips have occurred with ABS, never had an issue with PLA. Before I buy a new build plate I really want to figure out how to prevent this from happening again! Anyone else have similar experience or advice? thanks!

[stonewater]

just ordered a new one myself, although my problem seemed to stem from me NOT washing my build plate, just adding more glue. it actually peeled the glass off while it was cooling..... heard a pop and it was cracked. happened to both sides...

so from now on if the part is not loose the plate is going in the sink, part and all and let the hi quality H2O do it's Job.

Tom C

[JFettig]

I had some really stuck parts a couple times with ABS Juice. Never chipped.

I've been using PEI for my build plate(taped onto glass) I'd look into it, it takes a little figuring to get your recipe dialed in but once you do, parts stick hard and come up relatively easily.

[bvandiepenbos]

I had a one particular glass build plate awhile back that kept having glass chunks pop out. I replaced it and no more problems. (both "boro" glass from SeeMeCNC)
I wonder if the quality of glass varies from batch to batch or different suppliers? ... for that matter how can you tell if it is really high temperature borosilicate glass??

I have a friend that says he always takes glass off his printer as soon as done and still hot and immediately runs it under COLD (yikes!) water and prints pop right off. He claims to never had chunks of glass pull out or cracked the glass ! His boro plate would be pretty old, from a v1 build. I have been to chicken to try it that way. I often pop prints off with a sharpened stiff putty knife before bed cools, a sharp rap on handle does the trick. Sometimes print bed cools before I get to it, but I use same procedure.
I have noticed to much hairspray or glue can cause chips. It CAN stick to well.
I use hairspray on glass.

One of my machines does have PEI, that works even better. no hairspray or glue needed.
I Highly recommend it.
You would not have to worry about glass chipping either.
I recommend .030" or thinner PEI, that way you can just flip build plate over if you need to print on glass, occasionally some filaments work better with glass+glue/hairspray.
The thinner PEI does not affect heat transfer when flipped over.

[BenTheRighteous]

I think seemecnc did have a dud batch of glass plates they were shipping for awhile, but they're shipping good ones now.

Having said that, I also recommend the PEI mod. It's not expensive, not time consuming, and is a huge improvement over glass and modifiers.

[stonewater]

so with pei no glue no hairspray? do you heat to the same temps?

Tom C

[bvandiepenbos]

so with pei no glue no hairspray? do you heat to the same temps?

Tom C

that's correct, no glue or hairspray.
about the same temps.
If it is not sticking, increase temp by 10 c
I have good luck at 100c for ABS

[BenTheRighteous]

I print mostly with ABS and when I was using glass/glue, I had to get up to 120 to ensure a good first layer.

With PEI, anything over 95 is now overkill.

PLA is about the same as before.

[noishi]

Thanks for the input, perhaps I got unlucky and got 2 plates from the bad batch? Good news is both plates have chips on one side, I think I will try applying PEI on the otherside and see if it will last me longer.