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Last time I had my V4 drop out on me (it's happened a couple times) I hooked up the USB and sent a couple M552s over from YAT and that seemed to help wake it up.

But it's not working now. I'm printing from the front panel still, but really like to monitor from my laptop.
SO!

Do I have to forget all the networks every time and start from scratch?

Can someone help build me a macro that I can load up and run from the touchscreen to this effect?

Thanks

Which main and WiFi firmwares are you running? 2.02 main and 1.23 WiFi are recommended. Main firmware 2.02 retries automatically if the WiFi connection is lost.

dc42 wrote: ↑Thu Apr 11, 2019 5:50 pm Which main and WiFi firmwares are you running? 2.02 main and 1.23 WiFi are recommended. Main firmware 2.02 retries automatically if the WiFi connection is lost.

I have to assume I have the latest, I just got my printer last week and it was built by SeeMe themselves...

I can find... Panel Due version 1.21.3(13b1) according to the screen, but thats probably just the screen's own FW now that I think about it. How do I find the others and can I do it while in the middle of a print?

Duet Web Control displays the version numbers on the Settings page. You can also get the main firmware version using M115 and the WiFi firmware version from the M122 diagnostic report.

dc42 wrote: ↑Fri Apr 12, 2019 2:53 am Duet Web Control displays the version numbers on the Settings page. You can also get the main firmware version using M115 and the WiFi firmware version from the M122 diagnostic report.

Gotcha, I can't get Web Control to open at all (hence this thread) but will try the gcode commands at the screen...

OK M122 says RepRap firmware for Duet 2 Wifi/Ethernet version 2.02(RTOS) running on Duet Wifi 1.02 or later, and then the board ID

but M115 says the same thing, though, except at the end instead of the board ID it says FIRMWARE_DATE 2018-12-24b1

dc42 wrote: ↑Fri Apr 12, 2019 2:53 am Duet Web Control displays the version numbers on the Settings page. You can also get the main firmware version using M115 and the WiFi firmware version from the M122 diagnostic report.

OH NO NOW I NEED URGENT HELP

I have a new file that I have to print to finish this batch by tomorrow, but I can't upload new files without the wifi - i dont have an adapter for a microSD to put in my computer!

M587 yields "failed to retrieve network list"
M588 S"*" yields "failed to reset the Wifi module to factory settings"
M587 with my SSID and password yields "failed to add to remembered networks"

software reboot, power cycle reboot, nothing is working and I'm in some S if I can't get it going.

I've got the Duet Ethernet, which drops out frequently as well. But it keeps printing, and I just have to hit the "Connect" button to bring it back up. Not really worth investigating to me.

That said, DC42 is going to be your best help for this, see if you can get an answer over at: https://forum.duet3d.com/

Possibly helpful: https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/3112/wif ... ect-errors

well i went out and bought an SD adapter and this morning updated all the FW etc so I hope that helps. Not going to make the cutoff to get these out the door today like i'd hoped though.

OK, hopefully somebody will see this, i guess i'll email andy as well...

I updated the firmware as per instructions.
I was able to reconnect.
I was able to upload my gcode file.
I had gotten a little error message that the heightmap and config override files were missing, so I ran the First probe macro to generate them.
AFTER THAT - I got a Javascript error in the DWC window, and then it disconnected and I am back to M587 and M588 doing nothing, etc.

The error referenced something like not recognizing the word "initialize" I think? It was fleeting and of course the DWC page just went blank and changed to a "cannot be reached" page after that. Nothing on the panel console about it. I also have a VIN undervoltage event (9.5V) in there but not sure if that is related.

I guess I should, what, do the whole FW shuffle again?

The VIN undervoltage event is worth looking into. Since it's brand new, see if you can swap out the power supply with a new one.

rootboy wrote: ↑Sat Apr 13, 2019 12:26 pm The VIN undervoltage event is worth looking into. Since it's brand new, see if you can swap out the power supply with a new one.

Oof, wouldn't have any idea how to do that but I assume it's all screws and connectors; I'd love to change that fan out anyhow if I've got it open like i did with the exhaust fan.

Plus with my standing orders to produce, I wouldn't have time for the machine to be down even for a day, so I'd have to beg them to ship me a new PS *first*...

Yeah, deadlines suck. But with the SD card you can print without the WiFi. If you are going to be doing this as a business, you need backup printers. I have four of them. And a healthy collection of spare parts, and a voltmeter.

If it doesn't hurt the quality of your finished product, re-slice your parts using a larger layer height. This will speed things up considerably.

rootboy wrote: ↑Sat Apr 13, 2019 1:17 pm Yeah, deadlines suck. But with the SD card you can print without the WiFi. If you are going to be doing this as a business, you need backup printers. I have four of them. And a healthy collection of spare parts, and a voltmeter.

If it doesn't hurt the quality of your finished product, re-slice your parts using a larger layer height. This will speed things up considerably.

Oh I have 5 printers right now but half of them don't count cause they're either not working or are having some other weirdo problem. I've been printing for about 3.5 years now (but I do not *build* the machines; I'm far too many thumbs for that) - this particular item I'm cranking out now needs smaller layer heights due to its size and level of detail but yes the larger items do get bigger layers. Anybody know the 'magic number" full-step layer heights for these machines BTW?

I think that it's .4mm for a .4mm nozzle. So the size of the nozzle will define the layer height.

But I've never tried to go larger than .4mm, so I'm not sure.

Do you have a Maker's group in your area? Huntsville has one and they have 4 or 5 guys who print. Maybe you can take one of your problem children down to a local Maker's group. The other option is your local high or middle schools, they tend to have printers these days too. I wouldn't take your new Rostock to them, but one of the older ones.

And yeah, I know all about printers going rogue... But I troubleshoot equipment for a living, so it's a lot like bringing my work home with me.

rootboy wrote: ↑Sat Apr 13, 2019 2:24 pm I think that it's .4mm for a .4mm nozzle. So the size of the nozzle will define the layer height.

But I've never tried to go larger than .4mm, so I'm not sure.

Ohhh not the MAX height, but the "magic number" meaning the layer heights at which the steppers do a full step so that you don't get goofy imprecision with microsteps - on my other printers it's stuff like 0.18 instead of 0.2; that sort of thing. It just occurred to me that a delta print might not have the same issue with that as a straight cartesian.

As for my problem children, well, I am printing a new fan duct for one that hopefully cures its fitment issue; another appears to have a bad clog above the hot zone BUT the machine isn't worth the time and energy for me to totally break it down to get to it... one is sitting in its box awaiting its final destination (return to creality probably for either fix, replacement, or something else)... and one is still printing decently but won't calibrate since I added a flexplate to its bed - and it's a closed system so I can't do anything about the calibration AFAIK.

Did you get my return PM? It's in my 'outbox' but not 'sent PMs' and IDK how that should work here.

Oh, ok. Mine seems to like .15mm. But I've replaced the steppers with .9 degree ones. And yes I did get your PM.