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Wow those settings are way different. The 400mm/s travel speed is a little concerning but the rest looks great.

400mm/sec is only valid for Duet-equipped machines. Dial it back to around 200mm/sec.

g.

That's how I set mine up is with the SeeMeCNC profiles. I added what I felt was needed to it as I went.

I switched to the new profile with 200ms travel and here are the three cubes I printed from the same file (pictures later maybe)
1. Nice overall shape, lots of stringing and blobs/zits
2. Same as above, pretty large layer shift to the left (just like always)
3. Same as #1

So as always, intermittent layer shift to the left. It must be mechanical right? I honestly can't feel any looseness in gears, belts seem adequate.

Is the nozzle lifting before it makes a travel move?

You might also check the wiring of all three steppers to make sure a pin isn't crawling out of the connector shell.
g.

The nozzle does have z-lift. It's ridiculously high, too. I was going to remove it but honestly the results are the same as any time in the last few months. Nasty layer shift to the left.

I will start checking the wiring. The thing was such a pain to put together that I've avoided taking anything apart at all. I'm super limited on free time between work and family stuff so had my fingers crossed that it was software

Here is a sad thing, as I was removing fans I noticed that the standoff on the Y side is not flush against the top of the effector plate. it was up by two threads. Apparently it doesn't pull tight when screwing the plate to the standoff. I can only imagine this causes the hot end to be a little tilted... I might need a new effector and like everything else because things just seem to be off in every way.

If it's not able to tighten flush, there's something in the way.

g.

ExplodedZombie wrote:
I will start checking the wiring. The thing was such a pain to put together that I've avoided taking anything apart at all. I'm super limited on free time between work and family stuff so had my fingers crossed that it was software

I'm thinking, if you thought the thing was a pain to put together (because they are NOT) and you are stressed for time now and we're probably stressed then you have made a lot of little mistakes. They have added up to your problems.

Take it all apart and start the build from scratch. Take your time. It will go a lot faster and your understanding of how it all works will click.

Definitely a good idea. I put it together several years ago when I wasn't strapped for time. But I did do some upgrades a few times, and I've honestly never had the best attention to detail so yeah there could be quite a few mistakes.

Yeah, Gene's instructions are some of the very best for assembling anything. He should work for IKEA... For comparison, try building anything from FLSun and you will get a rude awakening. So it's pretty easy to one of these things together.

Pictures of the platform area would be helpful.

Okay major update. I started using the new profile and it looks great but still had a layer shift. I then took rootboy's advice and removed the fans and led ring and I have not experienced a single layer shift since. Now that isn't to say it won't happen, I'll be trying a bigger print today. I even upped the retract by .5 and 10ms and it has 0 stringing on the classic retraction cubes test which is a huge first. Too good to be true is a common theme for me, so I'll keep testing but everyone here deserves a HUGE thank you! So many of my settings were a little off that I can't imagine I'd ever have gotten it right.

Fingers crossed...

Fail. Not only was there a massive layer shift, but it was probably caused by the huge amount of curling just past the first few base layers. I'm guessing it's due to insufficient cooling. This would make sense since I removed 2 of my fans. I was using the original squirrel cage fans with the original mounts, probably not appropriate for my new effector mount thing. So I'm including pics this time.

[img]https://i.imgur.com/V1wjwGM.jpg[/img]
[img]https://i.imgur.com/wGXZUiw.jpg[/img]

Well, the hotend and the platform look fine. Better looking than mine, that's for sure... I have my hotend mounted under the platform, but I have the Delta Smart Effector/713Maker combo, so I sort of have to.

You could use the normal corner mounted fans (where the fans are mounted horizontally and blow downward), which would get rid of the shrouds. Or install a Berd-Air.

And I don't think that this is going to fix anything, but I would raise the Velcro strap above the (beige) RC plug. I don't like to see things so tight, and It looks like it could be pulling on the cartridge heater.

I looked up what I could find on your KL17H motor, but I would need the entire part number to see what your motor currents should be.

The current fan shrouds are the file that came in the instructions, I believe. I don't think I've ever seen a corner-mounted one. That would be cool, though. Do you mean you screw the fan directly to the frame? Seems like the air would come out horizontally.

KL17H248-15-4A

I don't think any of these modifications I've done so far will fix the fact that the head scratches across spilled filament over the supports. Like it doesn't retract when moving across supports so a little filament spills out as it moves. Then it gets kicked around a bit until it hardens and makes a nasty sound when hit later. Probably a side effect of having a model build up on top of so much support. Although it also sort of looks like part of it is coming off the bed then getting rolled around until it hardens. Going to try 65 bed temp (over 60)

This is what I'm talking about:

https://kzoomakers.org/rostock-max-3d-printer-complete/

Or:

https://www.amazon.com/SeeMeCNC-Rostock ... uage=en_US

So your motor is good for 2 amps, I think the early ones were 1.3 - 1.6 amps. So in any case, the extra current shouldn't be hurting anything.

So do you feel the filament push back against your fingers when it retracts? This could still be a leveling problem as well.

For bed adhesion, I use "Aqua-Net Extra Super Hold". It works great! Not only does it hold really well, I don't have to clean (or scrape) the bed as often.

I just had a layer shift while printing retraction cubes...just above the second layer or so. I think it's straight up a terribly built printer (my fault). Feels like it's spitting out too much filament as it's often leaving some even when retracting. Coasting doesn't seem to help. I've calibrated the extruder but perhaps my hotend thermistor is lying or something and 205 is just way too hot (I used to use 196). I am trying to print retraction cubes at 200 but for some reason it always targets 205...my printer is haunted (and Cura). I'm exhausted.


So here are the issues with retracting.

Normally, retractions are fine and you can watch the little knob reverse quickly during one. Cool. However, when moving across supports it doesn't seem to want to retract.

For most prints of that specific robot, I had combing turned on as it was recommended by the author. That turned off retractions altogether.

Right now I've re-squared the towers and tightened everything, planning to recalibrate right now, and make sure everything is as should be.

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