Octoprint

Having a problem? Post it here and someone will be along shortly to help
morgandc
Printmaster!
Posts: 280
Joined: Mon Sep 26, 2016 8:32 pm

Octoprint

Post by morgandc »

I am loving Octoprint for the most part, but I have a few questions/things that I am trying to figure out.

1. The terminal window has a LOT of "Recv: wait". Is this normal? Should I supress?
2. The actual temp doesn't seem to update enough, it can be WAY off from what the printer LCD reads.
3. It appears that the temp graph either local to the browser or only updates while on that screen. Is there any way to get it to store that data so that you can bring up the page and see historical temps vs target?
4. When clicking a control such as +.001 / -.001 if I alternate the printer responds. But if I press one of the buttons repeatedly it seems to ignore multiple presses. Is this normal?

Thanks,
-Dwight
User avatar
mhackney
ULTIMATE 3D JEDI
Posts: 5412
Joined: Mon Mar 26, 2012 4:15 pm
Location: MA, USA
Contact:

Re: Octoprint

Post by mhackney »

1. yes, that's fine, its waiting for the next marching order
2. there is a significant lag communicating with the Pi. Watch your LCD display, it will update almost immediately. That's the important one!
3. not that I know of, maybe a plug in exists?
4. .001 ? that is tiny tiny tiny. not sure what that is

Sublime Layers - my blog on Musings and Experiments in 3D Printing Technology and Art

Start Here:
A Strategy for Successful (and Great) Prints

Strategies for Resolving Print Artifacts

The Eclectic Angler
morgandc
Printmaster!
Posts: 280
Joined: Mon Sep 26, 2016 8:32 pm

Re: Octoprint

Post by morgandc »

More info:
1. Seems to be when not printing, so likely ok.
2. Octoprint only seems to actively update the temp when it thinks it is printing?
3. May be related to 2.
4. Still digging.
morgandc
Printmaster!
Posts: 280
Joined: Mon Sep 26, 2016 8:32 pm

Re: Octoprint

Post by morgandc »

@mhackney 4. Meant +/- .01 (G91 G0 Z.01 and G91 G0 Z-.01)

Looking for a gcommand that sets temps and get's regular updates without have to issue a m105 command nonstop. I thought it was working with a m109 but now it isn't.
morgandc
Printmaster!
Posts: 280
Joined: Mon Sep 26, 2016 8:32 pm

Re: Octoprint

Post by morgandc »

Ok, found the "bug" and workaround that Octoprint put in place for idle updates of the temp screen when not printing. Looks like a couple of other settings there I need to investigate. Check Disable Detection of external heatups. This will cause Octoprint to send an m105 regularly to get the temp.
DisableDetectionofexternalheatups.jpg
morgandc
Printmaster!
Posts: 280
Joined: Mon Sep 26, 2016 8:32 pm

Re: Octoprint

Post by morgandc »

Checking the option "Always assume SD card is present" now lets me see my SDCard....good and bad, now I have to clean the SD card off.
morgandc
Printmaster!
Posts: 280
Joined: Mon Sep 26, 2016 8:32 pm

Re: Octoprint

Post by morgandc »

Did some more research, it appears that we are supposed to check all of the "Repetier" options under features to resolve issues with Octoprint. I have done so, two of them resolved issue, the others are likely issues I haven't run into based on some of the research.

2nd, I hooked up a camera, and found the following helpful.
https://github.com/foosel/OctoPrint/wik ... -on-octopi

NOTE: leave the #camera="auto" commented out. Setting it to usb and uncommenting made it where mine wouldn't boot properly.
EDIT: Boot issue came back with camera plugged in, I suspect power draw issues.

Thanks,
-Dwight
Last edited by morgandc on Mon Oct 24, 2016 8:10 am, edited 2 times in total.
morgandc
Printmaster!
Posts: 280
Joined: Mon Sep 26, 2016 8:32 pm

Re: Octoprint

Post by morgandc »

Another tidbit:
If you want to enable logging of the serial port, edit the config.yaml file and add log: true under the serial section.

https://github.com/foosel/OctoPrint/wiki/Configuration
morgandc
Printmaster!
Posts: 280
Joined: Mon Sep 26, 2016 8:32 pm

Re: Octoprint

Post by morgandc »

NOTE: it is easier to setup user access control in the beginning and disable it, than try and enable it later. For some reason I can't get the wizard to run that creates the users.yaml file. I chose not to enable it thinking that could enable later, as well as not realizing that there are autologin options based on ip.
morgandc
Printmaster!
Posts: 280
Joined: Mon Sep 26, 2016 8:32 pm

Re: Octoprint

Post by morgandc »

Just a quick note:
I powered the Raspi from the Rambo following the pictures in http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... wer#p97334.
morgandc
Printmaster!
Posts: 280
Joined: Mon Sep 26, 2016 8:32 pm

Re: Octoprint

Post by morgandc »

I am having boot problems when the camera is installed. Looking at /var/messages I don't think it is booting at all and therefore is likely a power draw issues on boot. Considering moving towards a 12v power usb hub.

Note: Camera is a Microsoft Q2F-00013 USB 2.0 LifeCam Webcam
-Dwight
User avatar
rurwin
Printmaster!
Posts: 68
Joined: Sat Sep 24, 2016 10:43 am
Contact:

Re: Octoprint

Post by rurwin »

The Rambo 1.3 schematics show that the 5V supply is generated by a LM22675 chip, and that is rated at only 1A output. The Raspberry Pi 3 is specified to take 2.5A, and while a good part of that is for the expected draw from the USB sockets, you are right on the edge. I would not be at all surprised if adding a webcam put it over the edge.

Rather than a 12V hub, you could just use a buck converter. It's probably cheaper and certainly smaller.
https://www.fasttech.com/products/1005/ ... r-stepdown
User avatar
mhackney
ULTIMATE 3D JEDI
Posts: 5412
Joined: Mon Mar 26, 2012 4:15 pm
Location: MA, USA
Contact:

Re: Octoprint

Post by mhackney »

I think the 2.5A also includes the HDDI video which we are not using.

From the FAQ:

The device is powered by 5V micro-USB. Exactly how much current (mA) the Raspberry Pi requires is dependent on what you hook up to it. We have found that purchasing a 1.2A (1200mA) power supply from a reputable retailer will provide you with ample power to run your Raspberry Pi for most applications, though you may want to get a 2.5A (2500mA) power supply if you want to use all 4 USB ports on the Models B+/2B/3B without using an external powered USB hub. The table below outlines the power requirements of each model.

Model 3B: 2.5A Recommended fully loaded, 1.2A total USB current draw, 400mA bare board active current consumption.

With no video and only servicing the RAMBo with no keyboard/mouse or other peripherals, I haven't had any problems powering directly from the RAMBo. That said, safe is better than sorry so a convertor is probably a good idea.

Sublime Layers - my blog on Musings and Experiments in 3D Printing Technology and Art

Start Here:
A Strategy for Successful (and Great) Prints

Strategies for Resolving Print Artifacts

The Eclectic Angler
morgandc
Printmaster!
Posts: 280
Joined: Mon Sep 26, 2016 8:32 pm

Re: Octoprint

Post by morgandc »

The webcam works fine if I plug it in after I boot. So I am still guessing that power is the issue, but was looking around for a powered hub to prove it. The buck converter does sound like a better way to go.
morgandc
Printmaster!
Posts: 280
Joined: Mon Sep 26, 2016 8:32 pm

Re: Octoprint

Post by morgandc »

Note: the problem did occur on wall 2.4 amp supply and seemed to go away. Tonight I will switch back to wall power and see if the issue resolves itself. There are known webcams that overdraw the pi and need a powered hub. I did see a 5v USB inline injector that would work with the buck convertor nicely if that is the issue.
User avatar
rurwin
Printmaster!
Posts: 68
Joined: Sat Sep 24, 2016 10:43 am
Contact:

Re: Octoprint

Post by rurwin »

Yes, but... The maximum USB draw for a single device is 500mA. So adding the webcam puts you closer to the limit.

The HDMI should not draw much current, about the most is 50mA to power the EEPROM that the screen characteristics are read from. The old wisdom that most of the power is taken by the graphics may not apply to the Pi 3; the quad core is known to get hotter than previous versions and a heatsink is now recommended whereas for previous versions it was never required.

The 400mA figure is sort of best-guess. It's what is shown on a meter with the thing sat on a bench. It isn't created from an analysis of the board design and I'm almost certain it isn't measured with any great accuracy over a variety of loads and conditions.

The 400mA figure is the same as the original Pi 1. It was increased for the Pi 2 and then the Pi 3 introduced better voltage regulators that brought it back down. But I have power supplies here that worked perfectly with the Pi 1 that failed to power the Pi 3.

Raspberry Pi's do like a good quality power supply. It's by far the most common problem people have with them.

Also note that by powering them over the GPIO connector you are avoiding their self-resetting fuse. That's only in-line if you use the micro USB connector. Not a problem but be careful not to short it out.

Regarding wall-power, one issue is the USB cable. You wouldn't believe the resistance of some of them; they can easily drop a good fraction of a volt. I only use power supplies with a fitted cable these days. In fact for the Pi 3 I only use the official poower-supply.
And since I made that recommendation, I should probably add that I am a moderator on the Raspberry Pi forum.
morgandc
Printmaster!
Posts: 280
Joined: Mon Sep 26, 2016 8:32 pm

Re: Octoprint

Post by morgandc »

So...would the ideal solution be a 3amp 12 to 5v buck convertor and delivering that 5v via two pins on a micro USB to the Raspberry Pi?
User avatar
rurwin
Printmaster!
Posts: 68
Joined: Sat Sep 24, 2016 10:43 am
Contact:

Re: Octoprint

Post by rurwin »

It's a real pain wiring to a micro USB connector; I've tried it. Just be careful and consider fitting a fuse.
morgandc
Printmaster!
Posts: 280
Joined: Mon Sep 26, 2016 8:32 pm

Re: Octoprint

Post by morgandc »

I was just just thinking cutting a USB microphone CEO wire and soldering it to the buck convertor. In that manner it could go through the the raspberry fuse. I can put another fuse inline to the the 12v source to the buck convertor if that is what you are recommending.
User avatar
mhackney
ULTIMATE 3D JEDI
Posts: 5412
Joined: Mon Mar 26, 2012 4:15 pm
Location: MA, USA
Contact:

Re: Octoprint

Post by mhackney »

I'm curious as to why you want to hook up power through the micro USB port?

Sublime Layers - my blog on Musings and Experiments in 3D Printing Technology and Art

Start Here:
A Strategy for Successful (and Great) Prints

Strategies for Resolving Print Artifacts

The Eclectic Angler
morgandc
Printmaster!
Posts: 280
Joined: Mon Sep 26, 2016 8:32 pm

Re: Octoprint

Post by morgandc »

Based on rurwin:
Also note that by powering them over the GPIO connector you are avoiding their self-resetting fuse. That's only in-line if you use the micro USB connector. Not a problem but be careful not to short it out.
User avatar
mhackney
ULTIMATE 3D JEDI
Posts: 5412
Joined: Mon Mar 26, 2012 4:15 pm
Location: MA, USA
Contact:

Re: Octoprint

Post by mhackney »

ah ha, good to know. Thanks.

Sublime Layers - my blog on Musings and Experiments in 3D Printing Technology and Art

Start Here:
A Strategy for Successful (and Great) Prints

Strategies for Resolving Print Artifacts

The Eclectic Angler
User avatar
rurwin
Printmaster!
Posts: 68
Joined: Sat Sep 24, 2016 10:43 am
Contact:

Re: Octoprint

Post by rurwin »

If you do cut that cable in half, you will be astounded by how thin the power wires are.

Also you are depending on them using the correct colour wires, which they do seem to do surprisingly often, but still...
morgandc
Printmaster!
Posts: 280
Joined: Mon Sep 26, 2016 8:32 pm

Re: Octoprint

Post by morgandc »

I should be able to test continuity to confirm the wire colors to the full sized USB side. I may look for a board with a full sized port on it that I can solder to. Research still to be done.
User avatar
mhackney
ULTIMATE 3D JEDI
Posts: 5412
Joined: Mon Mar 26, 2012 4:15 pm
Location: MA, USA
Contact:

Re: Octoprint

Post by mhackney »

Why such a fuss about not using the GPIO connector? These RPIs are 1) cheap and 2) pretty robust if you don't do anything silly. And if you are really concerned, an inline fuse is cheap. I've dissected USB cables and those tiny wires seem more problematic for carrying the current than not having a fused input does!

Sublime Layers - my blog on Musings and Experiments in 3D Printing Technology and Art

Start Here:
A Strategy for Successful (and Great) Prints

Strategies for Resolving Print Artifacts

The Eclectic Angler
Post Reply

Return to “Troubleshooting”