Re: Time to cut losses with Rostock Max v2?

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rehabmax
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Re: Time to cut losses with Rostock Max v2?

Post by rehabmax »

I have hand months of printing problems with my Rostock Max V2. It all started after a had to change the resistors for the hot end. i have replaced the entire hot end first with an E3d. When this did not work properly i went back to the SeemeCNC (old style) type. I kept the E3D thermistor. i have been able to print very small objects only. Now all my prints are very brittle and come apart just by a little pressure. It is easy to see right through some of them. Layer adherence is not good. i am using PLA filament. i have played around with the temperatures at the hot end from 200-220º and bed temperature around 70º. I have gone through all the adjustment cycles, Z height, set screws multiple times. Tape. glue stick, alcohol to clean the bed. Sometimes the base layer is OK. I have the newer EZR extruder. I have dialed back the layer fan output ( I have 3 not 1) so they are at 30% since I though maybe there is too much cooling occurring. Then temperature drops 5-7 degrees when the fans are blowing according to the thermister. I think this is minimal. I don't need a bunch of registration boxes. It is not the filament. I took one new spool out of package and printed with it, no good. I have done the paper test. Tweaked the horizontal bed settings. I have seen postings of taking a micrometer to the paper to check the thickness. Really ? This isn't NASA. I have not been able t print anything substantial for months now and I am at the end of my patience with this.
Any ideas? i have seen this issue from other people with other printers. As far as I can tell I have plenty of filament coming out at the start of a print. Why does it stop or slow after the first few layers?
Does any one else have this issue? i cannot seem to figure out where the problem is.
Thanks for any help.
Last edited by rehabmax on Mon Oct 10, 2016 9:35 am, edited 1 time in total.
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mhackney
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Re: Re: Time to cut losses with Rostock Max v2?

Post by mhackney »

1) read the post linked in my signature
2) practice on a single layer object as described in that post to gain experience and make sure you are getting perfect first layers. If not, identify the issue - slicing issues, temperature issues, calibration issues, setting the Z height issues, etc
3) read the post I made on Friday about retracts: http://sublimelayers.blogspot.com/2016/ ... racts.html

what slicer and slicer settings are you using? how well calibrated is your printer? Do you have a way to actually measure the hot end temperature and/or did you change the firmware thermistor setting and upload the firmware to RAMBo when you switched to the E3D hotend?

There could be any number of reasons for your problems and without a disciplined, stepwise approach to find and eliminate each you will continue to be frustrated. Be consistent and change one thing at a time as I describe in my link and you will quickly find what the problem is.

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mhackney
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Re: Re: Time to cut losses with Rostock Max v2?

Post by mhackney »

oh, and how about a photo of the roll of filament with its label and a photo of one of the parts you describe.

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rehabmax
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Re: Re: Time to cut losses with Rostock Max v2?

Post by rehabmax »

Going with the E3D print head was probably not the best idea. it has since been removed and I back with the original SeemeCNC hot end.
I did make 2 Rambo code changes with the E3D. on was to increase the max heating level, I have since changed that back to 245ºC. The other was for the thermister. It changed to type 10. Since I kept it I did not change the code back.
I do not think is the filament. I took the roll off I was having problems and put on a new one, fresh out of the shrink seal and it did not make a difference.
Can I accurately measure the hot end temperature, no I cannot. The filament begins to melt when the thermister temp reads 175º
There is not a clogging issue that I can see.
I have messed around with some of the settings, retraction is back to 1 mm, Z height readjusted.
Some things have gone to the EEPROM and I could have inadvertently changed something I should not have/ Those PID settings ????
If I could go back to the original EEPROM settings on the Arduino Rambo Board maybe that would help, but I doubt that can be done now.
Although I uploaded pictures from my computer this site does not seem to like JPEG files this way . is there an alternate way to upload pictures ?
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Re: Re: Time to cut losses with Rostock Max v2?

Post by mhackney »

You can use jpeg photos, click the attachments tab below the "full editor" page. It is down there vvvvv. Then you can select your jpg and Insert it inline.

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Strategies for Resolving Print Artifacts

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rehabmax
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Re: Re: Time to cut losses with Rostock Max v2?

Post by rehabmax »

I read you retract posting. very thorough. the variation between temperatures , volume, speed. many variables, a lot of trial and error. Well written.
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Re: Re: Time to cut losses with Rostock Max v2?

Post by rehabmax »

After going to the New York Maker Faire 2 weeks ago i was intrigued by the Prusa i3 MK2 printer. that I saw there. It is a Cartesian system with auto bed leveling and some other nice features. it is also upgradeable to 2-4 color printing. $699 DIY kit or $899 assembled. Upgrade multi filament $199-249. The online reviews are good. For me it is worth considering. Even if I can get my Rostock printing well again it would be nice to have multiple color capability. I probably will splurge on the assembled model this time since it is only $200 more. It comes from Prague, Czechoslovakia.
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Re: Re: Time to cut losses with Rostock Max v2?

Post by IMBoring25 »

Everybody under the sun makes Prusa derivatives and probably half of them use MK designations. Coming from Prague might narrow it down but if you want opinions on the machine you'd need to identify the vendor.
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Re: Re: Time to cut losses with Rostock Max v2?

Post by Polygonhell »

The Original I3 MK2 is made by Prusa himself.
He's been providing them to all the YouTube reviewers, and I've yet to see a bad review, looks incredibly well thought out for what it is. The auto calibration apparently will compensate for an out of square build as well as a none flat bed.
The multi filament system is a lot like the Prometheus system but with 4 inputs, as I understand it he uses additional GPIO on the RAMBO board to multiplex the extruded stepper output, so he can drive 4 extrudes without additional drivers.
I don't have one, so info is all second hand, but if you are interested both Tom and RichRap have pretty good reviews of both the prebuilt one and the kit.
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Re: Re: Time to cut losses with Rostock Max v2?

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