So, I just finished building my printer the other night, and had finished with calibration. I wanted to do a quick test print before I went to bed, but I was having difficulty with getting the ABS plastic to extrude. I'm not sure if my hot end was up to temp or not, I don't think I got the thermistor seated right. I also made a mistake on setting the filament size to 1.5 mm, not 1.75 mm.
Now I have a pretty nasty clog. I foolishly thought I could just push more filament though to force it out, but instead I started to force the PTFE teflon liner out, with no plastic extruding. My question is what do I do now? What is the best way to remove a clog from the default hot end that is shipped with the Rostock Max? This is my first 3D printer so I am still in a learning process. Thanks!
Best way to remove clog from Hot End
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Polygonhell
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Re: Best way to remove clog from Hot End
errr
Can you show is a picture of that, I suspect I know what your looking at but I'd like to confirm before I tell you to buy a new hotend.but instead I started to force the PTFE teflon liner out,
Printer blog http://3dprinterhell.blogspot.com/
Re: Best way to remove clog from Hot End
If it's stuck in the brass part, forget about it. Others may disagree and say soak the whole thing in acetone until the plastic is softened up enough to pull it out. I tried that for a couple of days and found it was more expedient to just order new hot ends (and backups).
There's a post somewhere...I used sewing machine needles to futz with it (they have a cut out) - but I ended up deforming the .5m hole - since stainless is stronger than brass.
So @Polygonhell is 100% correct if you want to post a picture before he tells you to order a new hot end (or two or three).
The lesson is this:
1. Get your temps right and don't mess with them. They're different for each type of plastic.
2. Don't push too much plastic (different settings for different software). Better to have stringy prints first.
3. There is a relationship between head temps and the amount of plastic you push through w/rt layer heights, speed...
And so many other variables too numerous to mention..
Why is this important?
Once you get comfortable with printing on a stock Rostock Max, you may wish to experiment with other heads. Some of them don't have the PFTE liner and if they do, it might not be removable like the Rostock is. Also, there are other heads that have no liner at all - leaving you with no options except to get a new head or turn up the heat and push it all through.. The problem there is when you have "carbonized" the plastic and there is no potential for flow.
Might be a fork for another topic:
What is the real cost of a Rostock Max? Add $100 or so to be safe - to account for heads, parts you kill, etc. You will never read this forum enough to avoid mishaps. That's part of the fun though - since with every mishap, you learn something!
There's a post somewhere...I used sewing machine needles to futz with it (they have a cut out) - but I ended up deforming the .5m hole - since stainless is stronger than brass.
So @Polygonhell is 100% correct if you want to post a picture before he tells you to order a new hot end (or two or three).
The lesson is this:
1. Get your temps right and don't mess with them. They're different for each type of plastic.
2. Don't push too much plastic (different settings for different software). Better to have stringy prints first.
3. There is a relationship between head temps and the amount of plastic you push through w/rt layer heights, speed...
And so many other variables too numerous to mention..
Why is this important?
Once you get comfortable with printing on a stock Rostock Max, you may wish to experiment with other heads. Some of them don't have the PFTE liner and if they do, it might not be removable like the Rostock is. Also, there are other heads that have no liner at all - leaving you with no options except to get a new head or turn up the heat and push it all through.. The problem there is when you have "carbonized" the plastic and there is no potential for flow.
Might be a fork for another topic:
What is the real cost of a Rostock Max? Add $100 or so to be safe - to account for heads, parts you kill, etc. You will never read this forum enough to avoid mishaps. That's part of the fun though - since with every mishap, you learn something!
Technologist, Maker, Willing to question conventional logic
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Re: Best way to remove clog from Hot End
I'll get some pics when I get home. I'm pretty sure I have funked up this hot end, just me being impatient 
Finally got it built and calibrated, just had to print something.
If I'm looking at getting new hot ends, what would you suggest? Should I stick with the hot ends from See Me or try out these "J" heads? Hehe, I feel like I'm in over my head, but how else am I going to learn! Jump in feet first! Its all about the experience.
EDIT: I should also note I am printing with ABS.
Finally got it built and calibrated, just had to print something.If I'm looking at getting new hot ends, what would you suggest? Should I stick with the hot ends from See Me or try out these "J" heads? Hehe, I feel like I'm in over my head, but how else am I going to learn! Jump in feet first! Its all about the experience.
EDIT: I should also note I am printing with ABS.
Re: Best way to remove clog from Hot End
Welp, just went a head and ordered a J-Head from hotends.com, and a J-Head holder from trick laser. I'll still post pics when I get home, would be nice if I could salvage this hot end.
Re: Best way to remove clog from Hot End
Heads are like opinions, everyone has one....
My recommendation is build a standard, work up from there. Much of the documentation and materials here are oriented towards "standard" or factory. Get it down, stabilize, build a personal knowledge base, and then start modding where you see fit. There's enough going on with just getting a good print going that the whole head thing can wait.
(Besides, there are at least two new head designs coming out from two different parties in the next month or six weeks. Perhaps even more.)
My recommendation is build a standard, work up from there. Much of the documentation and materials here are oriented towards "standard" or factory. Get it down, stabilize, build a personal knowledge base, and then start modding where you see fit. There's enough going on with just getting a good print going that the whole head thing can wait.
(Besides, there are at least two new head designs coming out from two different parties in the next month or six weeks. Perhaps even more.)
Technologist, Maker, Willing to question conventional logic
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Re: Best way to remove clog from Hot End
Ohhh...things to look forward to. Just want to get out of the office and back home to try and salvage this hot end. Would love to print this weekend...
Re: Best way to remove clog from Hot End
Got home and started to take it apart. The jam is mostly in the brass nozzle, with only a little bit of plastic in the tube going into the nozzle.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/8anptfgk9n901 ... .10.57.jpg
I have a feeling this may be a lost cause. I don't really know where to go next. Could I try heating the nozzle up in like a toaster oven and try to clear out as much of the plastic? Maybe use a soldering iron or something hehe?
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ersyl837pptb0 ... .11.23.jpg
Thanks for any info!
https://www.dropbox.com/s/8anptfgk9n901 ... .10.57.jpg
I have a feeling this may be a lost cause. I don't really know where to go next. Could I try heating the nozzle up in like a toaster oven and try to clear out as much of the plastic? Maybe use a soldering iron or something hehe?
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ersyl837pptb0 ... .11.23.jpg
Thanks for any info!
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Polygonhell
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Re: Best way to remove clog from Hot End
PLA or ABS?
Printer blog http://3dprinterhell.blogspot.com/
Re: Best way to remove clog from Hot End
ABS. 1.75 mm, silver to be exact. From SeeMeCNC.
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Polygonhell
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Re: Best way to remove clog from Hot End
It looks recoverable to me, what I would do is heat the nozzle to about 250C and get as much as possible of the plastic out of it.
You can then soak what's left in acetone for a couple of days, get a 0.5mm drill bit and carefully with you fingers run it through the nozzle.
You can then soak what's left in acetone for a couple of days, get a 0.5mm drill bit and carefully with you fingers run it through the nozzle.
Printer blog http://3dprinterhell.blogspot.com/
Re: Best way to remove clog from Hot End
if the jam is in your nozzle you should've been able to heat it up till it melts...
have you checked your hot end temperatures? check it, calibrate it, with your clogged nozzle, heat it up to 230c and extrude it out.
have you checked your hot end temperatures? check it, calibrate it, with your clogged nozzle, heat it up to 230c and extrude it out.
My rostock build log http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=1228
Re: Best way to remove clog from Hot End
I think you could fix it. I've had good luck burning PLA out with a blowtorch in a well ventilated area. That should work for ABS too.chosenken wrote:Could I try heating the nozzle up in like a toaster oven and try to clear out as much of the plastic? Maybe use a soldering iron or something hehe?
Re: Best way to remove clog from Hot End
Welp I was able to remove a lot of the plastic using the toaster oven, but can't get the actual clog that is in the tip of the head. I'm going to try aceton now while I wait for my J-Head to ship.
Re: Best way to remove clog from Hot End
#10 sewing needle or a .5mm drill bit - but be careful, I've ruined two.
Alternatively, since you have most of it out, the clog might be distressed enough to give it a go...
Alternatively, since you have most of it out, the clog might be distressed enough to give it a go...
Technologist, Maker, Willing to question conventional logic
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Re: Best way to remove clog from Hot End
I've tried another go with the toaster oven, after another failed extrusion attempted. It looks like what is stuck in there is mostly carbonized now. I've got the head sitting in some acetone. I ordered a J-Head from hotends.com on Friday, I just don't recall if I got it before it sold out or not. Oh well!
I think I'm going to order some additional brass heads since it easy to take them out.
Its a learning experience! Thanks for all the help so far!
I think I'm going to order some additional brass heads since it easy to take them out.
Its a learning experience! Thanks for all the help so far!
Re: Best way to remove clog from Hot End
Here's how I unclogged PLA plastic from my nozzle.
Heat the nozzle with a blow torch or stove burner.
When it's really hot, drop it into a cup of alcohol, repeat a few times.
Try to scrape out any stuck plastic from the back of the nozzle using a pin/nail/tweezers.
Reconnect the nozzle to the heater and let it heat up.
Use the metal wire from a twist tie and push it up into the nozzle.
Let the nozzle cool a little bit and pull the wire out.
Try to extrude with the printer and repeat if necessary.
Those steps eventually worked for me.
Heat the nozzle with a blow torch or stove burner.
When it's really hot, drop it into a cup of alcohol, repeat a few times.
Try to scrape out any stuck plastic from the back of the nozzle using a pin/nail/tweezers.
Reconnect the nozzle to the heater and let it heat up.
Use the metal wire from a twist tie and push it up into the nozzle.
Let the nozzle cool a little bit and pull the wire out.
Try to extrude with the printer and repeat if necessary.
Those steps eventually worked for me.
Re: Best way to remove clog from Hot End
Thank you all for the suggestion! I was able to get the clog out and actually print! Only two and a half weeks after receiving the printer, it is done and printing! Bellow is a vid of it printing out my fourth print, a bridge test.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hsq4_DAXObw
I was able to remove the clog by doing the following:
1. Placing the brass nozzle in a toaster over set to 450 F
2. Removing as much plastic as I could without digging into it and damaging it.
3. Placing the clogged nozzle in acetone for a couple of days (Saturday Night to Monday Night)
4. Using a sewing needle to open a path in the nozzle
5. Replacing the nozzle in the printer, then extruding VERY SLOWLY at about 230 +. It was able to push out the junk and after a few millimeters was all clear.
Then came of the fun of figuring out the best temp for this ABS. I was surprised when I found the best printing temp was around 210 C. I got the least amount of bubbles and it flowed pretty well.
I ordered additional nozzles today in case I clog this one again, and I also have a J-Head on the way from hotends.com and a J-Head holder from trick laser.
Thanks again for all your help! I'll prob have some more questions later, like how to get these bridges to print nicely. Been using Slic3r, and I don't think it plays well with bridges.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hsq4_DAXObw
I was able to remove the clog by doing the following:
1. Placing the brass nozzle in a toaster over set to 450 F
2. Removing as much plastic as I could without digging into it and damaging it.
3. Placing the clogged nozzle in acetone for a couple of days (Saturday Night to Monday Night)
4. Using a sewing needle to open a path in the nozzle
5. Replacing the nozzle in the printer, then extruding VERY SLOWLY at about 230 +. It was able to push out the junk and after a few millimeters was all clear.
Then came of the fun of figuring out the best temp for this ABS. I was surprised when I found the best printing temp was around 210 C. I got the least amount of bubbles and it flowed pretty well.
I ordered additional nozzles today in case I clog this one again, and I also have a J-Head on the way from hotends.com and a J-Head holder from trick laser.
Thanks again for all your help! I'll prob have some more questions later, like how to get these bridges to print nicely. Been using Slic3r, and I don't think it plays well with bridges.