Print starting before Hotend heats

[Harblar]

So, My printer started acting goofy tonight. Sliced up a file in Slic3r and shot it off to Octoprint like I've done many times before. The bed heated up to temp and then the print started... before the hotend started heating!

I have made some changes to my printer within the last week. I added a titan extruder (no issues after that mod) and then a PT-100 temp sensor this last weekend (has been working fine till tonight, to the best of my knowledge, but I may have had things preheated before I started the last several prints due to changing filament types/rolls).

To get the PT-100 working I hooked it up to the analog 3 pin and changed the ext0 temp pin to 3 in config.h. I then swapped the thermistor 1 table in the extruder.cpp file to a pt-100 specific table I found elsewhere on this forum. and finally changed the ext0 temp sensor type to 1. Everything is working great as far as heating up and holding temp nicely, etc...

The only wonky thing is what it did tonight. The only other thing of note I did this evening before the issue popped up was to setup Octoprint on a different computer. The printer went a little goofy on me and I had one crash. After I reset, reconnected, and rehomed is when I started noticing the temp issue. Since then I've tried reslicing with slic3r, printing older gcode files (that I know were good), printing from simplify3d, printing from the SD card with USB Cable attached and unattached at the board and pc, reflashing the firmware. getting a stock version of 92.2 firmware and tweaking the few necessary settings only. Clearing eeprom and flashing again. (tried with 1.6.0, 1.6.1, and 1.8.5) Same result with everything. It's almost like something maybe went haywire on the board itself, but I wouldn't have a clue what, since everything else seems to be working good

here's the gcode readout I got during one of the attempts:

Code: Select all

READ: T:24.37 /0 B:49.27 /50 B@:255 @:0
READ: T:24.37 /0 B:49.32 /50 B@:255 @:0
READ: T:24.37 /0 B:49.32 /50 B@:255 @:0
READ: T:24.69 /0 B:49.46 /50 B@:202 @:0
READ: ok
SENT: M105
READ: TargetExtr0:235
READ: ok
READ: TargetExtr0:235
READ: T:24.37 /235 B:49.50 /50 B@:255 @:255
READ: T:24.37 /235 B:49.55 /50 B@:255 @:255
READ: ok
SENT: M105
SENT: G28 
SENT: G1 E-6.5000 F6600
SENT: G1 Z0.525 F1200
SENT: T0
READ: T:25.00 /235 B:49.60 /50 B@:189 @:255
READ: ok
READ: T:25.00 /235 B:49.60 /50 B@:189 @:255
READ: ok
READ: SpeedMultiply:100
READ: X:0.00 Y:0.00 Z:355.800 E:0.0000
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X-67.370 Y-11.309 F9000
SENT: G1 Z0.225 F1200
READ: ok
SENT: G1 E6.5000 F1980

As you can see, the bed heats normally and then when the extruder starts to heat the printer apparently says, " close enough" and just starts going for it, even though it's 210C from it's actual target.

I'm trying a slic3r print through octoprint atm with some known settings just to make sure that's the only issue I'm having and it looks like the extrusion might be a little inconsistent compared to what it normally is. Hopefully these aren't signs of a dying board? Any thought's or suggestions on what might fix it?

[Harblar]

Weirder yet...

Swapped filament to a roll I know I had dialed in well. Had the hotend preheated @ 240. Started the print, which called for a first layer @ 220. The Bed heats and then the printer waits as the hotend reduces the 20 degrees before printing. So... if the hotend is under temp it just starts printing, If it's over temp it waits. That seems like some setting in the firmware is swapped or something or maybe I got the PT-100 connection to the e3D board flipped or something?

Any thoughts? This is just baffling to me... I'd just go the full Duet Swap, but I dropped about that same amount of cash into upgrading to this he280 accelerometer board a year ago, and I'm still hesitant about scrapping it (I know... should've just gone the duet route a year ago, but I didn't really stumble across that option until I already had the he280 installed and was looking for calibration guides for it.)

So yeah... Any help would definitely be appreciated.

[Xenocrates]

That is really weird. Could you check what value you have in configuration.h for

Code: Select all

SKIP_M109_IF_WITHIN

Mine with a working firmware with PT100's(but not probing), is set to 2. You may also be able to set it to 0. And you can confirm that there are M109 codes to set the hotend temperature, yes?

Potentially reset the EEPROM values to your uploaded ones? send M502 then m500? (this is destructive to EEPROM values, so back them up before this)

[Harblar]

SKIP_M109_IF_WITHIN is set to 5. so I'm really guessing this isn't the case. When it came down from 240 to 220 I want to say it started at around 225. (Can't remember offhand).

I've tried manually adding the m109 to the gcode in the slicer and nothing. This is a new out of the blue problem. I've tried multiple slicers that I've been using for years, with slicing settings that I haven't had problems with or changed since I dialed them in months ago. One day it was working fine, the next weirdness!

I'm really starting to think there is an issue with the Rambo or the accelerometer board somewhere. I just put some 3mil PEI on my steel heat bed plate and now I can't get it to calibrate at all! I'm using (and have been successfully for quite awhile) geneb's autocalibration plugin for octoprint. I can't get it to complete a calibration without crashing the probe into the bed (already nicked some nice big gouges out of my new pei.... ) I used to be consistently around .1 -.15 deviation and now it's all over the place, if it finishes the calibration at all. I've seen it complete one clean cal @.11 and on a followup calibration crash it so hard it disconnected the printer. I like to do at least 2 iterations of the calibration with similar results (2 back to back calibrations with a deviation at around .13 for each was my normal) before I print. Now I'll get a calibration in that normal range and the next one will show .8-.9 down from like 8.0 or 9.0! Back to back calibrations... they should be the same! wtf is going on?!?!

This thing is becoming a joke and a half! I'm so close to taking a bat to the whole damn thing, but I already got too damn much money invested in it and now it looks like it's going to cost me at least another $280 to get the functionality and repeatability out of it that I want. What really irks me is I've already put that much, or more, into it over the last year or so that we'll be completely useless if I upgrade to a duet/fsr setup.

[Harblar]

Uggghhh... threw the glass bed on quick and that calibrated fine. Don't tell me the Accelerometer board has a problem with PEI? Worthless if that's the case.

[img]https://pa1.narvii.com/6516/78a57a0aec4 ... c70_hq.gif[/img]

[Xenocrates]

Yeah. It was a known, and discussed issue early on that it doesn't like calibrating on PEI or other bed surfaces (buildtak, etc). I think Fablam works, but isn't as durable as PEI is.
I have pretty little clue what to do from here (since I dumped the Rambo a while ago for a Duet, I don't have as much experience with Repetier as I might like), other than advising you give Seeme support and perhaps the Repetier devs a shout about it.

[Harblar]

What's weird is that I've been using it very successfully with a Geckotek plate for over a year. The coating got worn out so I scraped it off and was going to replace it, but they changed their whole deal to a new material and but a Premium price on it... So I figured I'd go PEI since my new prusa mk3 was my first experience with it (and it works great for PETG) got two 3 mil pieces of PEI (glossy and matte) and covered each side of my spring steel sheet.

Really sucks that the accelerometer probe doesn't like it... even when it's that thin of a layer. In an attempt to save myself $2-300 in the short term, I tried a calibration with a thin piece of aluminum foil layed across the bed. Figured, what the hell. Worth a shot and if it works it should be close enough to at least make it useable. Amazed to say that it worked perfect! Ran two back to back calibrations (first to .12 and the second to .11). Manually set my z Height and it's currently printing a part in Makergeeks Raptor PLA at around 50-60 mm/sec with zero problems and a nice looking first layer (Really nice since the bottom surface was corrugated, so lots of retracts and two wall lines!) Anybody else ever tried it with the tinfoil before?

The print temp thing is still annoying, but livable since It doesn't take that much effort to manually preheat things... as long as I remember. lol

[Xenocrates]

You could always set the startup temperature for the duet to be your higher temperature, or potentially see if adding another M109 helps at all.

[rootboy]

You could try sending it a M116 command first (M116 - Wait for all temperatures in a +/- 1 degree range)

And what do you have "#define PRINTER_FLAG1_ALLOW_COLD_EXTRUSION" set to? In my Repetier it shows 128. It's in the "Printer.h" file.