I have been reading a lot about different 3D printing technologies. I read somewhere that the heated beds are not really needed.
Is this true for some material and not others? What is the source of that info?
Right now I just ordered a 24VDC supply and a DC to DC SSR to get more control of my heat bed. However, if I don't need it for every material or could do printing without it I would love to know about it. I have also solved the non sticking issues by using a Acetone ABS slurry for my prints. I really prefer that method versus glue stick because I am actually recycling bad prints this way.
Demolishun wrote:I have been reading a lot about different 3D printing technologies. I read somewhere that the heated beds are not really needed.
Is this true for some material and not others? What is the source of that info?
Right now I just ordered a 24VDC supply and a DC to DC SSR to get more control of my heat bed. However, if I don't need it for every material or could do printing without it I would love to know about it. I have also solved the non sticking issues by using a Acetone ABS slurry for my prints. I really prefer that method versus glue stick because I am actually recycling bad prints this way.
PLA can be printed onto an unheated bed if the bed is covered with blue painters tape.
Some printers are actually sold without a heated bed to print PLA exclusively.
“ Do Not Regret Growing Older. It is a Privilege Denied to Many. ”
Ive been printing both PLA and ABS(w/gluestick) on bluetape. Both with heated beds @ 70c mainly for the z height , I havent tried yet but Im sure ABS could print without heat , as long as you have good z height dialed in and adhesion. Using the blue-tape saves me from having to clean the bed and why not have the same print surface for both , easier transition.
A lot has to do with the size of the part. If you're printing something the size of a quarter, you'll likely get reasonable results with a wide variety of surfaces, heated or not. But the bigger it gets, you have to do more and more to combat curling and keep things stuck to the bed.
^ I agree with that. I think bigger than anything is maintaining a constant ambient temp for abs and solid bed temp. After building some walls (cheap) and easily removable, I quit having abs curling issues.
I stopped using my heated bed within a few months of having my Rostock. I print almost exclusively in Nylon, and the heat actually makes the glue stick peel off of the glass with the nylon stuck to it. I really should experiment more though. My thermistor input for the heated bed is dead.
I'm going to try extruding hot glue sticks into filament, then printing with that stuff as a first layer so Nylon will stick to it.
Realized kinda going off course. The main thing is , its most likely already been tested , and when thinking about the issues just with abs curling makes sense that heat would just be an easy way to maintain a point where the print stays in a somewhat relaxed form and doesn't shrink.
Or you have some kind of extreme hold , which result in Major pain in the ass to remove and or damage glass plate , if using.
I once tried turning off the heat during an ABS print - after about 10mm - 15 mm, my print came off. I haven't tried it with print surfaces other than glue stick but I didn't want to try again - too many other challenges to take on.
Technologist, Maker, Willing to question conventional logic http://dropc.am/p/KhiI1a" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
No HBP for PLA... I use Aquanet Unscented Super Extra Hold. MUCH cleaner release then the glue stick NO TAPE AT ALL!! 3-4 VERY thick coats... make a big bead with the plate in the sink.... let each layer dry. A hair dryer actually improves the hold. Then right before printing a quick tiny burst... The foundation layers should last for months. I use 1 can for 6 months of use.
If the part does not come easily put the glass plate in the freezer for about 10 minutes.
BTW it also works GREAT for ABS and the HBP.
This and MANY more awesome tips are available from the 3D Printing Today podcast!!
Make sure your glass is super clean before coating with hairspray, I use 3 light coats.
~*Brian V.
RostockMAX v2 (Stock)
MAX METAL "ShortyMAX"
MAX METAL Rostock MAX Printer Frame
NEMESIS Air Delta v1 & v2 -Aluminum delta printers
Rostock MAX "KITT" - Tri-Force Frame
GRABER i3 "Slim"
+1 on Auquanet. Garnier Fructis Style Extreme Control in the green can also works great. I don't use hairspray often, but when I do, it's one of these two.
Sublime Layers - my blog on Musings and Experiments in 3D Printing Technology and Art
When a group of technically minded people gather on an internet based forum and discuss the adhesive qualities that separate hair-spray brands... It's beautiful and I'm glad to be here
