Need help find the information

[TwoTone]

I have an e3d v6 waiting to install, but can't find any posts on any setting changes that may be needed vs. the stock hot end.

I've tried searching, but apparently e3d v6 is mentioned in a lot of threads on here.

Just need a little nudge in the right direction- thanks

[Tincho85]

Hi, hope it helps:

#define MAXTEMP 300

#define MIN_DEFECT_TEMPERATURE -10

#define MAX_DEFECT_TEMPERATURE 300

#define UI_SET_MAX_EXTRUDER_TEMP 280

#define EXT0_TEMPSENSOR_TYPE 1 (don't know the one for the stock E3Dv6, I'm using a threaded thermistor)

That's what I've changed, I don't recall if there is something else to be done.
Do a pid auto-tune after installing it, and make sure to heat it before tighten it completely.

[rehabmax]

You can also go the Matterhackers web site. Go to the store, search hot ends, and the E3D 12 volt will come up. scroll down the page until you see the Rostock Max printer. then there is a link to assembly and installation. i have had a few issues but I am getting past them now. it is important to do an extra tightening of the nozzle against the heatbreak when the hot end is preheated. Have a pliers and a socket wrench on hand. Hold the hot end with the pliers BEFORE you start the preheat. This must be done unmounted, then a slight turn with the socket wrench to fully oppose the nozzle to the hot heatbreak. Also I would always remove the bowden tube to change the filament on the stock hot end. Don't do this because the bownden tube has to slide into the top of the heatbreak and it can be difficult to line up again. Preheat and then use the retract command to get the filament back up out of the heatbreak. Also E3D ships with a .4 mm nozzle. The stock one is .5 mm. This is 20% narrower. It is more important than you might think. With PLA it is easy to over cool the filament easier and yor print will fall apart. I have 3 layer fans on and I am still working on how much to reduce the output. I am finding the temperatures to be significantly higher on the E3D to get good prints. i have ABS melting st 240º C and 90º bed heat. I am still playing around with the correct PLA temperature but it may be up in the 230º C range.
I really wanted to get away from the stock hot end with the resistors, copper silicone, all the kapton tape. i especially disliked the thermister just being shoved in the hole in the side of the heater block with nothing securing it.
Once you get the E3D calibrated I think you will find it much more reliable in the long run. At least i hope so