E3D has released new hotends!

[mhackney]

Hot steppers means too much current. So first you need to reduce that in configuration.h. It is not setable in eeprom in fortunately.

Honestly, the lcd panel support is poor and not worth wasting time on. Use repetier host while you get things up and running.

[wkinne]

I have never used repetier, is it a lot different? I kinda hate change lol Is it still loaded with Arduino? And I see the pages to get it but it wants a lot of questions i am not sure of the answers to.

Where do I change current settings in conf h file and what would I set them to?

[mhackney]

Use matter control or prionterface if you prefer. I just say repetier because it's what I use.

Do a search here on "current" and. "Stepper" and you'll find info on where it is. Open the file in arduino ask and search current. There is info on how to set it.

[wkinne]

Thank you, making progress!

[mhackney]

Do you know how to use the Repeater firmware online configuration tool at http://www.repetier.com/firmware/v092/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; ?

You really need to dig in and use it. The newest version of repeater firmware has excellent support for the Cyclops, including the ability to configure 2 extruders with a single hot end and a set of virtual extruders that deliver pre-set mixes of filament. For instance, I have a virtual extruder #4 set to mix 20% of 1 extruder and 80% of the other. Great stuff.

[enggmaug]

Mchackney, Do you know if the Cyclop could be adapted to the water cooling system of the kraken easily ?

(I understood you have both)

[mhackney]

I don't know if the Kraken cooling block has the same spacing for the heat breaks. But making a water jacket for the Cyclops would be easy. I do have both.

[enggmaug]

I don't know if the Kraken cooling block has the same spacing for the heat breaks. But making a water jacket for the Cyclops would be easy. I do have both.

What do you mean by "easy" ? I do not own a CNC, and I don't have access to that many tools for processing metal, other than a dremel and a couple of hammers (one for each hand).

[mhackney]

No CNC is necessary. Far too many people forget that things USED to be made one at a time by hand with simple tools. Unless you are planning to scale to large # production, building 1 to a few of something by hand is usually more time efficient than designing CAD, programming CAM and all the associated work there.

One could build a Cyclops water jacket with a drill press (or hand drill if you take your time) and hacksaw in 30 minutes. With the proper drill bits of course. The Kraken cooling block does not have intricate cooling channels, it is basically a U that was drilled to connect the channels and then the ends capped off.

[Xenocrates]

Hey, you don't need to do CAD/CAM to do CNC. I write most of my programs by hand. It's simple and quick, and teaches you G code, as well as how to optimize tool paths. The only hard part is not misplacing decimals.

[mhackney]

Yup, I know that. Conversational CNC is also great for some things. But again, it comes down to what you are making whether even that is worth the investment in time and effort.

[Xenocrates]

True. Most of what I work with, by the time you've figured out where to put the tool, you're 98% of the way to having a program written (I think so at least, but my peers disagree, and think it's unnatural that I can write them as quickly as I do), and you needed to figure that out to make a part by hand anyways. For something like a U cooling channel, it's likely quicker to just toss it on a drill press then tap it. If you have need of dimensional accuracy, doing it by hand is a pain, as most bridgeports and so on have ~.007 of backlash in my experience (these are old buggers mind you, but they have nice enough glass scales.) The only manual tool I've not had backlash issues with is an old Monarch lathe. Been going since WW2, and boy did they know how to build them. note that this is all imperial, not metric.

[enggmaug]

One could build a Cyclops water jacket with a drill press (or hand drill if you take your time) and hacksaw in 30 minutes. With the proper drill bits of course. The Kraken cooling block does not have intricate cooling channels, it is basically a U that was drilled to connect the channels and then the ends capped off.

You mean I wouldn't even need my hammers ?

I will need to observe more thoroughly how was the kraken cooler made, and think this over.

[Windshadow]

I wish I had learned G code now.

Back when I added a high end DRO to my Bridgeport I went with a Hiendenhien 855 and so learned their language. it looks like this (it is the same one used in their full controls just simplified)
0 BEGIN PGM 30 MM Start of program, program number, unit of measurement2 X+20.000 R0
1 Z+20.000 Clearance height
3 Y+10.000 R0 X coordinate of recess point slot ➀ Y coordinate of recess point slot ➀
4 CALL LBL 1 Call subprogram 1: execute blocks 12 to 16
5 X+40.000 R0 X coordinate of recess point slot ➁
6 Y+50.000 R0 Y coordinate of recess point slot ➁
7 CALL LBL 1 Call subprogram 1: execute blocks 12 to 16
8 X+60.000 R0 X coordinate of recess point slot ➂
9 Y+40.000 R0 Y coordinate of recess point slot ➂
10 CALL LBL 1 Call subprogram 1: execute blocks 12 to 16
11 Z+20.000 Clearance height
12 LBL 1 Start of subprogram 1
13 Z–10.000 Recess to slot depth
14 IY+20.000 R0 Mill slot
15 Z+2.000 Retract
16 LBL 0 End of subprogram 1
17 END PGM 30 MM Program end, program number and measuring unit

and knowing this language will do me no good now and the older I get the harder it is to pound new stuff into my skull

[Xenocrates]

Hey wind, I can take a few photos of things like my G and M code reference sheets, and I have something resembling coherent notes of the codes and their parameters (in Haas's use) typed up already. You can also likely pick up a Haas CNC manual, or some other manual, or even just look at the Rep-rap wiki if you want printer specific code, and reference that while you write programs at first. I got a copy of the Haas manual for about 30$ through my school as part of the course pack. Considering the size of it, it's not a bad price per page, and it comes with example programs, illustrations, and explanations for most G codes and canned cycles.

[mhackney]

This is the primary reference for g and m code for the main controllers/firmware for RepRap printers: http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Every firmware has its own dialog - just like each CNC mill, router or lathe has its own. GCode is really easy to learn, especially if you know another language. There are some great free tutorials too - google gcode tutorial

[Windshadow]

Thanks guys having that help here is important to me I will printout chunks of that riprap wiki for reading on the throne.
the kicker is when I was doing the Bridgeport in the 90s I looked and newer CNC bridgeport but I went with the early 50s J head in part due to the glass scales of its 1970s vintage (nixi readouts) heidenhain DRO and the fact that i did very little repetition work.
my shop was aimed at repair and restoration and prototype work for a local inventor.... when the 855 came out and I learned that I could use my existing high quality scales and by adding another z scale to the kneed (I had one on the Quill) I had the floating zero feature for the Z axis....
it was a very good choice for what I was doing back then as I stated getting jobs for 20 and one time 50 off of special brass items for a local architect and the mansions he was building and I could writ programs that the 855 would feed me the spin the wheels till the cursor for that axis is in the box and then auto step to the next instruction... I joked that it was semi CNC with my hands taking the roll of the steppers or servos....