Hello yall. Alabama reporting in.

[mrt1069]

I'm the proud owner of a new Rostock Max V2. I have completed my assembly without any issues (besides snapping one of the black polycarbonate pieces for the base plate, and shattering my original glass print surface) a couple weeks ago and I've been printing non-stop ever since.

At first I was completely happy with my Max as it was, but I've caught the upgrade bug and I just put on a dyzEnd hot end that I'm looking forward to having up and running (I'm having trouble with the firmware and I'd appreciate any advice). http://shop.dyzedesign.com/product/dyze ... 26983.html This little guy is a great fit on the Max (if i can get it printing) and despite it's small size it manages to get up to a whopping 500C. I managed to get it to heat up for a while before receiving an error message and it wasn't on for about 10 seconds and it was already hot as hell.

I'm also putting together an enclosure (http://repables.com/r/447/) if anyone has any advice on that project just let me know. My printer is sitting out in our shop and the guys like it cold as hell, so I've been having trouble with drafts. Not to mention the damn humidity down here. Right now it's at a lovely 81F with 80% humidity. If anyone has any ideas to control the humidity inside the enclosure I would much appreciate the info.

I think the next upgrade after this is going to be some carbon fiber arms and maybe toss some LEDs on there and a webcam so I can view my prints while I'm at my desk.

I've also yet to configure my wifipi server and I could probably use advice on that as well. If I feel up to it, I may just tear apart some leftover Cat6 cables and a printer cable to run a hard wire directly to my desk.

I look forward to posting on the reg and can't wait to learn from and share ideas with yall!

[Windshadow]

Welcome to the list that provides the Best Delta printer support in the world.

Could you have over driven the Rambo getting that DYZE hot end up to 500? if you plug your original SeeMeCNC hot end back in does it still print? perhaps contact DYZE about it? this is the first I have seen about your DYZE hot end but perhaps others hear are using it.

in the last 2 weeks a combined lazy Susan covered filament dryer/ dispenser was announced i will see if I can find the details for you. but you can make your own (without the drying feature so you can dry the filament in the oven before use) out of a small lazy Susan disc and a plastic cake box
most of the experts here (Hi GeneB) that have used both the newer arms as you already have and the carbon fiber arms say the difference is slight. from my reading here the seem to benefit the original cheapskate/universal joint arm system the most... but I don't have a personal opinion as I too have the newer plastic cheapskate and ball joint arms and they seem fine to me.

[travelphotog]

Where abouts in Alabama? I am up in Huntsville at the Marshall Space Flight Center. Judging by your post I am guessing you are a bit more south than I am. Keep us posted on your projects and welcome to the board! You have started a great adventure and the Rostock Max V2 can take you great places!

[mrt1069]

Welcome to the list that provides the Best Delta printer support in the world.

Could you have over driven the Rambo getting that DYZE hot end up to 500? if you plug your original SeeMeCNC hot end back in does it still print? perhaps contact DYZE about it? this is the first I have seen about your DYZE hot end but perhaps others hear are using it.

in the last 2 weeks a combined lazy Susan covered filament dryer/ dispenser was announced i will see if I can find the details for you. but you can make your own (without the drying feature so you can dry the filament in the oven before use) out of a small lazy Susan disc and a plastic cake box
most of the experts here (Hi GeneB) that have used both the newer arms as you already have and the carbon fiber arms say the difference is slight. from my reading here the seem to benefit the original cheapskate/universal joint arm system the most... but I don't have a personal opinion as I too have the newer plastic cheapskate and ball joint arms and they seem fine to me.

Bit of a stupid late reply but I haven’t tried ramping up the hotend on the original to 500. I think the issue may come down to the heating element. I wouldn’t doubt that the stock one could withstand 500c for some period of time, but the Dyzend gets up to 500 fast as can be. After over a year of use I wouldn’t recommend the Dyzend unless you really love messing with your PID tuning. I have done some massive prints though with it and it can fly though material. It has no problem going high on the heat to increase the extrusion multiplier for high speed printing. I did have issues though with small nozzles and trying to dial in a really specific temp for precision printing. My next upgrade is going to be a dual extruder setup with the stock nozzle for lower temps and finer, slower prints.

[mrt1069]

Where abouts in Alabama? I am up in Huntsville at the Marshall Space Flight Center. Judging by your post I am guessing you are a bit more south than I am. Keep us posted on your projects and welcome to the board! You have started a great adventure and the Rostock Max V2 can take you great places!

Another late reply but better late than never. The Rostock is great and yeah I’m down by the beach. A late thanks for the welcome and well wishes.

[Xenocrates]

Welcome to the list that provides the Best Delta printer support in the world.

Could you have over driven the Rambo getting that DYZE hot end up to 500? if you plug your original SeeMeCNC hot end back in does it still print? perhaps contact DYZE about it? this is the first I have seen about your DYZE hot end but perhaps others hear are using it.

in the last 2 weeks a combined lazy Susan covered filament dryer/ dispenser was announced i will see if I can find the details for you. but you can make your own (without the drying feature so you can dry the filament in the oven before use) out of a small lazy Susan disc and a plastic cake box
most of the experts here (Hi GeneB) that have used both the newer arms as you already have and the carbon fiber arms say the difference is slight. from my reading here the seem to benefit the original cheapskate/universal joint arm system the most... but I don't have a personal opinion as I too have the newer plastic cheapskate and ball joint arms and they seem fine to me.

Bit of a stupid late reply but I haven’t tried ramping up the hotend on the original to 500. I think the issue may come down to the heating element. I wouldn’t doubt that the stock one could withstand 500c for some period of time, but the Dyzend gets up to 500 fast as can be. After over a year of use I wouldn’t recommend the Dyzend unless you really love messing with your PID tuning. I have done some massive prints though with it and it can fly though material. It has no problem going high on the heat to increase the extrusion multiplier for high speed printing. I did have issues though with small nozzles and trying to dial in a really specific temp for precision printing. My next upgrade is going to be a dual extruder setup with the stock nozzle for lower temps and finer, slower prints.

I would not do a dual extruder setup if you only plan to use one at a time. The ball cup arms make swapping a tool-head fast, and a with a pluggable connector, it means you don't have to deal with offsets, extrusion, leveling, and effector tilt. Just swap and go (I've swapped everything but firmware in less than 5 minutes, and that's layer fans, main power, sensor (and sensor type), peak fan, and Berd Air connector). All you really need to do is define a separate tool and activate it when you want it (and otherwise either leave the temp sensor plugged in, or have a dummy plug for it, to avoid the dreaded DEF errors), or use the same sensor and heater pins (which I can't do as my E3Ds use PT100 sensors, and my stock hotend has an M3 thermistor, which need different processing to give useful signals)