Want to try some 3D Printing

[Andre B]

I have been looking around and I really like the delta type printers. I was just about to order a Rostock MAX when after sleeping on it I figure maybe I should try something simpler first.

I have a Taig mill with a G540 controlled by EMC2. Seems that with a few more parts, extruder (cold and hot ends) and some way of controlling the hot end temp I should be able to do some basic printing.

Any recommendations on how to get started?

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Andre' B.

[Jimustanguitar]

The Rostock Max is my first printer, and I've been thrilled with it. Lots of people say it's a different animal, but compared to constant bed leveling and z-lash and all of that stuff, I have no desire to get a Cartesian printer. And calling it a different animal doesn't mean that it's better or worse or easier or harder, just different. I like the difference. Plus, I feel that I know it better because I assembled it myself. I like that about it.

Do what you think is best, but I wouldn't discourage a beginner from getting a Rostock at all. Good luck!

[JohnStack]

Ima thinking why reinvent a great wheel; plus you'll get enough challenges with just a Rostock. I think it kind of depends on whether or not you want to print stuff quickly (building a kit) or adapting your Taig. I guess that depends on how long you want your Taig down while printing plastic / vice versa.

[Jimustanguitar]

I have a Taig mill with a G540 controlled by EMC2. Seems that with a few more parts, extruder (cold and hot ends) and some way of controlling the hot end temp I should be able to do some basic printing.

How fast can the axes on your mill travel? The website spec says 30 inches per minute, which is only about 13 mm/sec. A normal print ranges from about 20mm/sec on the low end to 150 mm/sec or even faster if you have everything tuned just right. Those are printing moves, positioning moves can be even faster than that (200-500mm/sec). Depending on how quickly the mill moves, you may spend a disheartening amount of time waiting on prints to finish.

[jesse]

I have a Rostock Max and am considering making a Reprap Morgan as a backup.

If only I could find the parts as a kit.

http://www.3ders.org/articles/20130514- ... esign.html

[Andre B]

Yes it would be slow. I can reliably get 40 IPM (17 mmPS), 50 if everything is clean and freshly oiled but it is not a sure thing.

Still it may be worth trying if I can use it to make some parts for the delta.

From what I have found temperature control can be had with a modified version of this, http://www.apogeekits.com/thermostat.htm.

Then there is the extruder and hot end, not sure what to look for there. The SeeMeCNC EZStruder and their or some other hot end seems to be one of the more flexable ways to go. The QU-BD looks to be the least expensive one part number solution.


Also I am a bit confused on the software needed. The mill is controlled by EMC but I do all CAD/CAM stuff on Windows. Mostly use MasterCAM at work for anything I cannot bang out with a text editor and some macros.

Thanks,

Andre' B.

[Fiero2M6]

20 mm/s isn't too slow. I say give it a try. You can always decide to use your hotend for a dedicated printer later on. I'm guessing that you will simply for the convienance.

The original SeeMeCNC H-1 kits used that thermostat with a resistor change. The documentation is on this forum, and I'm still using it with no problems.

For hotends, there are two basic types available: all stainless steel metal or plastic and metal. All metal hotends are being used to print at higher temperature materials (>250C) like nylon. However, you can print nylon with a plastic hot end if you're careful and use a fan. I'd reccomend starting with a cheaper, proven design rather than trying a new metal hotend.

For the software, EMC/LlinuxCNC can be used to control the 3-D printer via the 4-axis G450. I'm using Mach3, but there is information about EMC/LinuxCNC on this forum. To generate the g-code, you can use a free CAD file slicing software called Slic3r among others. It can export EMC/LinuxCNC compatable g-code.

For example, my process looks like this:
CAD file (.stl) --> Slic3r (converts .stl into g-code) --> Mach3 (g-code) --> Stepper Driver --> Stepper moter

You should be able to make some neat 3-D prints without too much trouble. Good luck!

[Flateric]

I initially thought the same way as you, have even the same equipment as you g540 etc, I also have a much larger cnc router.

But after extensively researching the conversion/hurdles etc I think you would find that using what you have will actually be more difficult that building and learning a proper 3d reprap printer. Delta or otherwise.

It not just that it will be slow, in some instances it will actually be too slow for correct filament bonding and extrusion.

You may also if you are not in a big hurry check out the seemecnc announcement in the 3d printers section about a simple easy to use up and running fast 3d printer called the Grabber I believe.

[Andre B]

I think I will get the parts ordered so the next time I get a weekend free I can play around with it some. Looking at 12 hour plus days at work now for the next 3 or 4 weeks so not much ambition left on week nights.

I just downloaded and tried Slic3r I had tried Kiss slicer before. The gcode from Slic3r made a lot more sense, the extruder axis position was significantly larger at the end of the program. I must not have something configured properly in the Kiss program, the extruder axis numbers looked like they may be incremental moves while the XYZ were absolute positions.

Did find another temp controller http://cnc2printer3d.wordpress.com/ but I am not seeing a phone number or address, always makes me wonder if they have something to hide. More expensive but a lot more features like a display.
Kind of looks like I am on my way to researching my way away from the Taig mill and into a dedicated printer machine.

I will keep an eye on that Grabber machine. What has really got my attention is the work done by Werner Berry and the other guys working on the magnetic ball joint mods.

Thanks all

Andre'