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thingevery
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Long time no see

Post by thingevery »

Hey guys,

I bought a Rostock Max (v1) in 2012 and assembled it. But as luck would have it, before I could ever get a single print off of it, we had a child and I suddenly had no time for 3D printing.

Well now I've decided it's time to get back into it. I got my MakerBot Thing-O-Matic up and running the other day. I still need to experiment with the settings, but I've gotten a few somewhat decent looking prints off it so far.

However, I'm not having great luck with my Rostock. I have very little knowledge when it comes to electronics. I just put it together by following the instructions. Everything seems to be in working order, but I can't get it to push any plastic. If I set the hot end to 220C for ABS, it only reads around 150C with the IR thermometer.

So I'll probably be asking some questions on here soon as I try and troubleshoot this thing. Wish me luck!

geneb
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Re: Long time no see

Post by geneb »

You may have a power supply problem or one of the heating resistors has been cooked. The power supply should read 12V when you're heating both the bed and the hot end.

g.
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thingevery
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Re: Long time no see

Post by thingevery »

Hey Gene!

Thanks for the reply. I think I have 3 problems now that I'm trying to fix. If I should post this in a different forum, please let me know and I will.

Temperature
I wasn't sure where to check the power supply voltage, but I tried the screws on top of the connecter where the hot end plugs into the RAMBo and got 11.24V. I did the same on the heated (Onyx) bed connecter and got 8.9V.

When the LCD says the NOZ is 200C, the thermometer reads 83.6C. However, the LCD says the BED is 65.9C and the thermometer reads 71.8C.

I almost suspect that I'm just not getting a good reading with the thermometer because the hot end is hot enough to burn my finger and when I heated it just now, a little plastic started to ooze out.

Inverted Homing
For some reason, when I send it a G28, the Y tower goes down while the others go up. I haven't changed any wiring, but I did reinstall the firmware (Repetier 091).

Extruder
When the end is hot and I tried to extrude, the gears turn but no plastic comes out. I inspected the cylinder with the grooves that advances the filament and noticed it's not turning. So I'll probably take that apart tomorrow and see if I can figure out what's wrong.

I appreciate your attention and would welcome suggestions and advice for any of the above matters. Thanks!

geneb
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Re: Long time no see

Post by geneb »

Your power supply is toast. At full load, a "low" reading would be 11.9v. This is causing your heating & extruding problems.

Your homing issue is due to the Y axis needing to be inverted in the firmware. You need to tweak the spot in Configuration.h where it lists the model of printer you've got - that should correctly set the axes. Also, you need to make sure you don't use a version higher than 1.6.0 of the Arduino IDE for compiling the firmware.

g.
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thingevery
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Re: Long time no see

Post by thingevery »

Ok, great. I've got a new power supply on the way.

In the meantime, I edited the Configuration.h file and it looks like it worked. I couldn't find a line to choose the printer model, but I found a section labeled "Inverting axis direction", so I changed the Y axis from false to true and now it homes properly.

Code: Select all

// Inverting axis direction
#define INVERT_X_DIR true
// #define INVERT_Y_DIR false
#define INVERT_Y_DIR true
#define INVERT_Z_DIR true
Note: I'm using the 'Repetier-091-ROSTOCKMAX-master' firmware (https://github.com/seemecnc/Repetier-091-ROSTOCKMAX). I also have the newer 'Firmware-master' (https://github.com/seemecnc/Firmware) which lists the various printer models, but there's no entry for the Rostock Max v1.

I couldn't get it to compile on Arduino 1.6.0, though. It gives me an error:

Code: Select all

Error while uploading: missing 'recipe.cpp.o.pattern' configuration parameter
But I was able to get it to compile and upload on a newer version (1.8.13) after making the following edit to the HAL.ccp file:

Code: Select all

// long stepperWait = 0;
volatile long __attribute__((used)) stepperWait = 0;
So once I get the new power supply hooked up, I'll test it all out again and report back. Thanks again!

geneb
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Re: Long time no see

Post by geneb »

That older firmware may work ok with the newer compiler. The "Firmware-master" is so large that if compiled with something after 1.6.0, it can become unstable and do weird things. The suspicion is that something in the compiler itself changed with 1.6.1+. There's no compelling reason to upgrade to that firmware unless you want to install an HE280 hotend with the built-in z-probe.

g.
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thingevery
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Re: Long time no see

Post by thingevery »

Ok, good to know. I noticed the HE280 page says it's not recommended to install on a v1. But since I'm upgrading to an industrial power supply, would I be ok then, to follow this guide? https://seemecnc.dozuki.com/Guide/Rostock+Max+v1-v2+HE280+Hotend+Upgrade/49#s402

Also, when using the newer firmware, what `#define PRINTER` option would I set for the v1?

Code: Select all

/*
Printer Model List as used throughout this firmware
Orion            = 1
Rostock Max V2   = 2
ERIS             = 3
Rostock MAX v3   = 5
Hacker H2        = 6
*/

geneb
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Re: Long time no see

Post by geneb »

Rostock Max v2 would be closest - you may have to tweak one of the axes even then. Sorry, it's been too many years since I've worked with a stock V1.

The guide you listed is the one you want if you've got an HE280. If it's in your budget, I'd jump to an SE300 and a Duet3D controller. You can get the SE300 & wiring whip from SeeMeCNC and the controller from filastruder.com.

g.
Delta Power!
Defeat the Cartesian Agenda!
http://www.f15sim.com - 80-0007, The only one of its kind.
http://geneb.simpits.org - Technical and Simulator Projects

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thingevery
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Joined: Mon Dec 24, 2012 5:22 pm

Re: Long time no see

Post by thingevery »

Those would be awesome upgrades, but it'll probably be a while before I can justify the purchase. I'm having such a difficult getting this thing to run as it is.

BTW, I threw in a new 12V 29A 350W power supply and rechecked all connections. However, when I check the voltage while heating the hot end and bed, I still get similar readings as before. I even busted out the bench multimeter just to be sure. But I've got the extruder working well enough now to push out some plastic, so it must be getting hot.

Anyway, now I'm struggling with the firmware. I've tried a few different ones and nothing seems to work. I'm going to start a new post in Troubleshooting about it.

Thanks for your help so far!

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