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So I am trying to reduce the stringing on my Rostock Max v3, but I seem to be getting nowhere fast, so I thought I would get some opinions from those more experienced than I.

The filament I'm using: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01BZ5 ... UTF8&psc=1

1
Extrusion
Temp: 200 C
Extrusion Multiplier: 1
Retraction
Length on Move: 2.5 mm
Speed: 100 mm/s
Minimum Travel Requiring Retraction: 10 mm
Speed
Speed for non-print moves: 200 mm/s

2
Extrusion
Temp: 190 C
Extrusion Multiplier: 1
Retraction
Length on Move: 2.5 mm
Speed: 100 mm/s
Minimum Travel Requiring Retraction: 10 mm
Speed
Speed for non-print moves: 200 mm/s

3
Extrusion
Temp: 200 C
Extrusion Multiplier: 1
Retraction
Length on Move: 3.5 mm
Speed: 100 mm/s
Minimum Travel Requiring Retraction: 10 mm
Speed
Speed for non-print moves: 200 mm/s

4
Extrusion
Temp: 200 C
Extrusion Multiplier: 1
Retraction
Length on Move: 4.5 mm
Speed: 100 mm/s
Minimum Travel Requiring Retraction: 10 mm
Speed
Speed for non-print moves: 200 mm/s

5
Extrusion
Temp: 180 C
Extrusion Multiplier: 1
Retraction
Length on Move: 4.5 mm
Speed: 100 mm/s
Minimum Travel Requiring Retraction: 10mm
Speed
Speed for non-print moves: 200 mm/s

6
Extrusion
Temp: 180 C
Extrusion Multiplier: 1
Retraction
Length on Move: 2.5 mm
Speed: 100 mm/s
Minimum Travel Requiring Retraction: 2mm
Speed
Speed for non-print moves: 200 mm/s

7
Extrusion
Temp: 200 C
Extrusion Multiplier: 1
Retraction
Length on Move: 2.5 mm
Speed: 100 mm/s
Minimum Travel Requiring Retraction: 2 mm
Speed
Speed for non-print moves: 200 mm/s

8
Extrusion
Temp: 200 C
Extrusion Multiplier: 0.9
Retraction
Length on Move: 2.5 mm
Speed: 100 mm/s
Minimum Travel Requiring Retraction: 2 mm
Speed
Speed for non-print moves: 200 mm/s


9
Extrusion
Temp: 200 C
Extrusion Multiplier: 0.8
Retraction
Length on Move: 2.5 mm
Speed: 100 mm/s
Minimum Travel Requiring Retraction: 2 mm
Speed
Speed for non-print moves: 200 mm/s

10
Extrusion
Temp: 190
Extursion Multiplier: 0.8
Retraction
Length on Move 2.5 mm
Speed: 100 mm/s
Minimum Travel Requiring Retraction: 1 mm
Speed
Speed for non-print moves: 250 mm/s
First Layer Speed 15 mm/s
All other print speeds: 30mm/s

Updated the information to show the correct info.

Your post does not make sense.

joe wrote:Your post does not make sense.

What's your malfunction Joe? I'm just looking for help and you post garbage like this?

Well realistically, it doesn't. The text before each image is exactly the same. The only time the reader would see a difference is if they clicked each google drive link to see what the image was. You might want to try attaching the images directly to the post - and make sure the descriptive text is different.

I don't have the time to do the whole click-wait-view-read dance, so I'm going to suggest that you have a rapid travel speed of 250mm/sec, 2.5mm retraction length, and a 4mm Z hop/lift. You might also want to back off the temp a little bit - say 190 and work your way up from there. Keep your print speed around 30-40mm/sec - you can run it faster once you've got a good handle on how it works when printing slowly. (the whole walk first, then run trope. )

g.

geneb wrote:Well realistically, it doesn't. The text before each image is exactly the same. The only time the reader would see a difference is if they clicked each google drive link to see what the image was. You might want to try attaching the images directly to the post - and make sure the descriptive text is different.

I don't have the time to do the whole click-wait-view-read dance, so I'm going to suggest that you have a rapid travel speed of 250mm/sec, 2.5mm retraction length, and a 4mm Z hop/lift. You might also want to back off the temp a little bit - say 190 and work your way up from there. Keep your print speed around 30-40mm/sec - you can run it faster once you've got a good handle on how it works when printing slowly. (the whole walk first, then run trope. )

g.

Thanks Geneb, I hadn't realized I pasted in the same setting for for each one. Joe was a fantastic introduction to these forums, making think maybe I should seek out friendlier, more helpful, less obtuse arena for support. Your reply is helpful though as it a) identified my mistake, and b) gave some helpful pointers in spite of that.

I'll try the settings you suggest above when I get home.

drewaustin wrote:

joe wrote:Your post does not make sense.

What's your malfunction Joe? I'm just looking for help and you post garbage like this?

Touchy. I merely stated I could not make sense of what the content of the post implied. I'm sorry you took offence.

Joe, part of the problem was your appear to have been a little too terse with your response. Pointing out the shown settings are the same, or that the pictures don't show well would have been more helpful, and largely better received. And while brevity is the soul of wit, small-talk is the heart of conversation.

Nah, the main problem as that the original post does not make sense, and Drew, instead of editing his post to make it clearer, goes off on Joe. Joe gave a short reply, Gene took the trouble to explain the problem with the post. Drew has not clarified his post.

Mac The Knife wrote:Nah, the main problem as that the original post does not make sense, and Drew, instead of editing his post to make it clearer, goes off on Joe. Joe gave a short reply, Gene took the trouble to explain the problem with the post. Drew has not clarified his post.

Way to break it down Mac. Glad you're on the case.

drewaustin wrote:

Mac The Knife wrote:Nah, the main problem as that the original post does not make sense, and Drew, instead of editing his post to make it clearer, goes off on Joe. Joe gave a short reply, Gene took the trouble to explain the problem with the post. Drew has not clarified his post.

Way to break it down Mac. Glad you're on the case.

Nice of you to check in. Did you get your problem solved?

It's very common to have a "hockey puck" because the bowden tube didn't make it all the way down.

http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... 25#p100897

Mac The Knife wrote: Nice of you to check in. Did you get your problem solved?

Alas no. I tried the settings recommend by geneb but am still getting all kinds of stringing on any piece that lots of peaks