Rostock Max V3 P001 Layer Fans

[miaviator]

These layer fans....

They will work great for average users, home users and hobby users.

So we ripped them off after the first print.

After migrating the old layer fans 3 x https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:747053 the prints come out a bit cleaner, see photos, there really needs to be a good three fan solution which concentrates air directly at the end of the nozzle. Once the printer hits 125-200mms with PLA especially in vase mode everything goes to crap. Usually 260-300C on the hotend with PLA which requires a lot of cooling. The prints shown are at default temps/speeds. 60mms/60c bed/210c hotend/vase mode.

I believe the new flat layer fan design increases the distance the arms can travel without crashing. It doesn't increase the overall cooling and seems to decrease the diameter of print cooling available.

Looking for a design that keeps the fans inwards a little more and concentrates air at the nozzle just below the heat block. Similar to this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:228055

I'll give a .05BTC reward to anyone who designs a working tri-fan mount (or three individual mounts).

[Noircogi]

Did you look at the one I posted?
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1792867

My goal was to move the fans in to allow a tight enclosure, but it also directs the air below the nozzle.
If you want the airflow more concentrated, it would be trivial to modify the design to have the duct go right up to the nozzle.

[DeltaCon]

I am no airflow specialist, but I think the resulting print has nothing to do with airflow, so I am typing this anyway

The layersurface in the upper layers is so small, that the layer has not enough time to cool down to reasonably sustain the next one. Instead of giving it more airflow (and I think that concentrating at the nozzle does not help for that!) and risk layer adhesion problems, I think it is best to introduce a pause between layers to give a layer more time to cool. Most slicers have settings for that. An other approach would be to print more of these items at once, if that fits.

[miaviator]

I am no airflow specialist, but I think the resulting print has nothing to do with airflow, so I am typing this anyway

The layersurface in the upper layers is so small, that the layer has not enough time to cool down to reasonably sustain the next one. Instead of giving it more airflow (and I think that concentrating at the nozzle does not help for that!) and risk layer adhesion problems, I think it is best to introduce a pause between layers to give a layer more time to cool. Most slicers have settings for that. An other approach would be to print more of these items at once, if that fits.

This is generally true and for anyone having similar print issues the above is great advice! Slowing the print speed and lowering the temperature will solve the print issue.

Oddly our goal is not solve the issue with slower prints, in fact making this print is a breeze and we have several sliced files for ABS, PLA, PETG, PolyCarb which work fine with speed and temperature changes at select points along the print. This was done at 60mms with a .5mm nozzle. Our final goal is printing 125 mms + with a .8mm nozzle. Getting sufficient cooling to the tip of the nozzle is the only way to hit those speeds at that extrusion. We run PLA at 180-195 normally, for the high speed high flow prints we run 270-300, you cannot run filament that fast and hot without direct cooling as soon as the filament leaves the nozzle.

As for layer adhesion, that is again not an issue once you get the temp out of the nozzle high enough the layers work fine (So long as you use non-warping PLA which is generally non-american sourced PLA unfortunately).

[miaviator]

Did you look at the one I posted?
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1792867

My goal was to move the fans in to allow a tight enclosure, but it also directs the air below the nozzle.
If you want the airflow more concentrated, it would be trivial to modify the design to have the duct go right up to the nozzle.

I did look at your design and it is a very good solution for casual printing. Adding an extension to push the air to the tip of the nozzle will increase the pressure and reduce the airflow (cfm) lower than would be needed. Using the BFB0312HA fans is a better solution to start with as they put out much more air. Oddly I'm more concerned with the airflow than the enclosure as we plan to redo the old method and cold bend lexan and screw it to the base. It will leave room for larger fans.

[Jrjones]

Have you seen this? http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=100&t=8926

[miaviator]

Have you seen this? http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=100&t=8926

I had not thank you. I was thinking in order to move past 150mms something using high pressure air would be required this looks like it could work after a few revisions. Although it's not very practical since it can't use standard cooling fans?

[Jimustanguitar]

Toot, toot! (that's my own horn)

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1167280

[Qdeathstar]

Have you seen this? http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=100&t=8926

I had not thank you. I was thinking in order to move past 150mms something using high pressure air would be required this looks like it could work after a few revisions. Although it's not very practical since it can't use standard cooling fans?

It comes with the pump it needs and you can control it right from the rambo fan output. I'm using it now... best $25 i've spent on my printer.

[adarcher]

Toot, toot! (that's my own horn)

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1167280

Is there a model file for that (or the remixed one) ?

I'd like to try a remix on it, but I've been using onshape.com and it doesn't load the stl in a way that I can work with it :/

[Jimustanguitar]

Toot, toot! (that's my own horn)

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1167280

Is there a model file for that (or the remixed one) ?

I'd like to try a remix on it, but I've been using onshape.com and it doesn't load the stl in a way that I can work with it :/

Does an OBJ work?
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bxa2n ... nhELXVVd1E

[miaviator]

Toot, toot! (that's my own horn)

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1167280

And the remix for the V3 https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1284511

[Jimustanguitar]

Toot, toot! (that's my own horn)

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1167280

And the remix for the V3 https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1284511

That's somebody else's remix, I don't have the source.

[TwoTone]

Toot, toot! (that's my own horn)

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1167280

And the remix for the V3 https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1284511

My son is using this one, so far so good.

[adarcher]

Toot, toot! (that's my own horn)

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1167280

Is there a model file for that (or the remixed one) ?

I'd like to try a remix on it, but I've been using onshape.com and it doesn't load the stl in a way that I can work with it :/

Does an OBJ work?
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bxa2n ... nhELXVVd1E

Thanks for the obj, sadly, both of those formats just turn into triangle meshes that can't really be used... not sure what the point of their import feature is... I've inported stls from some other programs and been able to work off them, but I'm not sure what the pattern is for success.

[lightninjay]

Is there a model file for that (or the remixed one) ?

I'd like to try a remix on it, but I've been using onshape.com and it doesn't load the stl in a way that I can work with it :/

Does an OBJ work?
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bxa2n ... nhELXVVd1E

Thanks for the obj, sadly, both of those formats just turn into triangle meshes that can't really be used... not sure what the point of their import feature is... I've inported stls from some other programs and been able to work off them, but I'm not sure what the pattern is for success.

I know when importing to Autodesk, I get surfaces, which I can combine and convert to 3D objects which can then be altered.

[Jimustanguitar]

Sketchup (which is normally awful) has a plugin called Cleanup3, that does a nice job of de-crappifying nasty STLs.

[miaviator]

Sketchup (which is normally awful) has a plugin called Cleanup3, that does a nice job of de-crappifying nasty STLs.

Link? Please?