Brand New Rostock v3 build stringing/oozing

[Gogonjdevil]

So I finally finished building my v3 yesterday and it went super smoothly. No problems at all. I plugged it in and the calibration cube printed OK...tweaked it with the delta calibration wizard and it printed perfectly. Then I tried to print a benchy and that's where I ran into trouble. As you can see from the pictures there's a lot of stringing/oozing. I tried lowering the pla temp from 210, to 200 to 195 and that didn't fix it. The pla is recommended from 195 to 215 so I'm not sure if I should go lower. I'm not 100% sure how to tweak the retraction settings. Right now they're what they are at default in matter control.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[kfonda]

I read this post on Mhackney's web site and it helped me a great deal with retraction settings.
http://www.sublimelayers.com/2016/10/so ... racts.html

[Gogonjdevil]

I just must be doing something wrong. I can't seem to get this dialed in. Everything else looks spectacular. Amazing first layer, amazing perimeters. It just strings and oozes. I calibrated the Hot End to be exact. It was a tiny hair off. I ran the Delta Calibration wizard to the point where my result was a .08. My current retraction settings are 2mm at 40 mm/s. My Z Lift is 2 mm and I lowered the minimum travel requiring retraction to 1mm. Everything else is default. Yet I still get tons of stringing on pieces that have gaps. The Calibration cube and anything without holes prints perfectly. I'm really confused

[Xenocrates]

I suspect a portion of it is the temperature and cooling settings, in addition to the retraction based on that specific filament being different than the general starting point we recommend.

[DeltaCon]

I would try going significantly lower in temp. The clearity of your printed part makes me think the temp is rather high. Usually the clear filament turns more opaque white'ish after printing. Try a thermocouple to see what temp you are "actually" printing, and calibrate your thermister settings accordingly. That makes talking a about temps on this forum a lot more sensible. Besides that I find myself printing at lower temps than suggested by manufacturers very often

[Gogonjdevil]

I was wondering if that could be the case. My inexperience is going to show now, but how exactly would I go about testing this? The thermocouple, is this like a device to check the temperature? I'm assuming something like this?

Also, how would I go about calibrating the thermister settings after getting the "reading".

Thank you very much for the help, I really do appreciate it.

[Xenocrates]

There's an old thread on this, here. Yes, that is a thermocouple. You can also get a multimeter with a thermocouple connector, which may be more useful if you don't already have a multimeter.

Once it's calibrated for accuracy, I would suggest setting it to print a few small pillars at a time, since you're testing stringing, and either alter the G-code to change the temperature, or just repeat them at different setting until you're satisfied.

[Gogonjdevil]

So apparently Matter Control was a huge culprit in this. I tried using Cura to slice and the piece came out 1000 times better. All rights the blobs are all gone and the only thing left now are really super fine strings. I'm going to try tweaking some retraction settings in Cura but it's a massive difference between that and matter control.