RoStock Max V2 with heated enclosure - gotta go

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RoStock Max V2 with heated enclosure - gotta go

Post by Stevolution »

Hello all

Need to make some space and wave goodbye to my currently non-working RoStock Max V2 printer.
The hotend clogged, died and never got repaired. It might be retrievable, but I have just not had the time or parts to replace the hotend.
Personally, I would just buy a new hotend, as they are pretty cheap.

The printer was modified when built with various extra functions... here is a brief rundown:

Purchased 15th September 2015

A very carefully assembled and modified RoStock Max V2 printer. No expense spared when building it.
Installed a modular Corsair 750w PSU at the beginning. The extra power helps with heating and makes for a much tidier installation.

The print head is mounted on a set of carbon fibre 300mm arms (ordered from TrickLaser - USA).
Astrodyn dampers fitted on all the stepper motors.

Upgraded cable size on the hot bed.
I also fitted anti-backlash bands on them.

Full RGB led lighting throughout, controlled by a pair of IR remote controls. Lighting mounting in both the top and bottom enclosures.
Also a custom Arduino driven Adafruit 24 RGB Led ring mounted under the hot end. This monitors the chassis RGB leds and copies their colour. I usually have it set to white to help with monitoring the print.
They do strobe very slightly, but that is due to the data speed of the Arduino Mini Pro that runs them. It really doesn’t make much of an impact on their performance.
You could always wire them to be simply 'On' if you wished.

The RGB ring is held in position by 3x ABS printed fan ducts for part cooling. These house 3x 30mm fans that can run at full 100% and not take heat away from the hot end.
I also fitted a 40mm cooling fan in a printed ABS case on the extruder stepper motor.
The Hotend has be 'edited' quite a lot, and currently has a breakout board with all the connections on it mounted across the arms so that there is easy access to the connections.

The top has a free-standing replacement spool holder. Basically the drums rotate on 4x bearings. This plate also includes a strain gauge which give a weight reading.

I also installed a panel mounted USB port on the side to allow the USB to be removed. There is a short USB lead inside the machine to the Rambo.

On the side (by the USB port) is a 25 way ‘D’ plug. This is wired for remote control of the RGB leds + 12v for remote equipment. I will supply a diagram of the wiring if you want to use it.
Also, there is a 5 pin programming port for the Arduino Pro Mini that runs the 24 RGB led ring.

All the chassis edges are primed and painted metallic blue, as are the carriages on the XYZ pillars.
All then finished with a coat of lacquer.

Other improvements include an Illuminated on/off switch and all the internal cables are heat-shrink covered.

It has a prototype laser beam print fail unit attached. If the print moves, then the printer stops:

The printer is housed in a custom heated enclosure. All a bit experimental, but it did heat up nicely and works very well. I would watch the Youtube video about it.
The only part of it I never added was the fire extinguisher feature that is present in the menu as a shut-down option.

So, to sum this up... the printer needs the hotend sorting out and then recalibrating.
The cabinet works off this Max V2. If you are handy, you could alter your RoStock to work with enclosure. Arduino programming would be a handy skill to have.

Any offers. For both printer and enclosure, or I might split them. They kind of go together to be honest however.
Would need a van to collect as its quite a beast in its enclosure and damn heavy. Collection (or possibly delivery from) Wiltshire.

You could just purchase the top half of the heated cabinet, as its two parts, This would just give you the heated enclosure and not the lower storage cupboard.

Feel free to ask questions and make offers!!!
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