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TwoTone wrote:Never put tinned wires in a spring connector.

It really wasn't hard to open the spring release

Spring cage connections work well with tinned wires, unlike screw terminals, these connectors are designed for both solid, and stranded wires.

Use a push pin to open the spring works best. You can push it in and it will stay in place until you pull it out.

Jassper wrote:

TwoTone wrote:Never put tinned wires in a spring connector.

It really wasn't hard to open the spring release

Spring cage connections work well with tinned wires, unlike screw terminals, these connectors are designed for both solid, and stranded wires.

Use a push pin to open the spring works best. You can push it in and it will stay in place until you pull it out.

Actually what I use is a "straight pin" (snagged from wife's sewing stuff) works good. I think the head of a push pin would get in the way.
https://www.amazon.com/Singer-Pearlized ... words=PINS

I suppose a opened "safety pin" would work also.

Yes, like these, not the Thumb tac verity.
[img]https://tse1.mm.bing.net/th?id=OIP.aB0F ... g&pid=15.1[/img]

The brake spring from an XTR Trail brake works perfectly

On the Duet Wifi Diagram, you have the Hotend Pos/Neg going to E1 on the Duet board, that should be to E0.

djarmag wrote:On the Duet Wifi Diagram, you have the Hotend Pos/Neg going to E1 on the Duet board, that should be to E0.

Right you are, thanks for the catch!

So I'm finally getting the time to install my quickclip connector, and I have a couple questions. I'm working with a much upgraded RMax V1, so I obviously don't have a premade wire harness...all of my hotend power, thermistor, hotend fan, and layer fans, all have their own pairs of wires running down to the hotend. I did buy the wire harness to populate, but the fan power has me a little confused. According to the "harness side" part of the pinout guide (http://www.tricklaser.com/media/Quick_C ... _rev5).pdf), there's only a spot labeled "fan pwm", and on the SeeMeCNC documentation (https://seemecnc.dozuki.com/Document/23/.pdf) that spot is only for fan (-). If I'm reading the circuit traces correctly, the layer fans are powered by the hotend (+) wire, right? But then on the control board side of everything (not using my original rambo anymore, it died a while back and defaulted to a RAMPS 1.4), that means the fan power header only really gets the (-) wire connected...I'm guessing that it will still correctly manage the fan even so?

With the RAMBo boards, the "-" leg is switched, the "+" is common. (someone please correct me if I'm remembering this incorrectly!"

g.

sorry to raise an old post, but are these 24v compatible?

I can't get my LED ring to turn on....I know it works.
80mm ring, looks like it has a resistor already on it.

Anyone know if this is compatible with 24V power supply system? I'm planning to do a full 24V upgrade with the MeanWell SP-750-24 with E3D V6 24V hotend and I couldn't find specifics.

djarmag wrote: ↑Fri May 03, 2019 1:43 pm Anyone know if this is compatible with 24V power supply system? I'm planning to do a full 24V upgrade with the MeanWell SP-750-24 with E3D V6 24V hotend and I couldn't find specifics.

You may have the adjust the current limiting resistors for the LED's, but it should function otherwise.