Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

You probably have it plugged into the wrong port on the RAMBO, remember there are 2 Z stepper connectors next to each other that get the same signals.

I did notice the two times that I unclogged it that I had melted ABS in the PEEK tube. However, the thermistor read that it was at the temperature that I wanted. If the thermistor is reading off, is there a way to correct for it in the firmware or something? This is indicative of too aggressive a r...

Relative extrusion is somewhat overrated, I agree it's the better solution overall, but it's not a significant improvement because almost every slicer resets the extrusion to 0 at every layer change, so errors only accumulate in a layer. IEEE floats have 26 bits of precision in the mantissa so even ...

Funnily enough I finally connected my Duet (0.85) to a printer over the weekend, and I have to say I was very impressed, one of the smoothest setups I've been through. Outside of the initial firmware flash and copying on config files to the SDCard I did everything from the web interface. I really li...

This post has the part numbers in it http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=55&t=1001&p=4209&hilit=Littlefuse#p4209 I got the part # from the wiki from the link above and ordered 10 of them from Digikey. Hopefully they ship 1st thing tomorrow and arrive Wednesday. MN to MA priority h...

This post has the part numbers in it
http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... fuse#p4209

You have to pull it out of the board and test it with a meter, they don't look any different when they are blown.

CNCZone is the big one, they have forums for hobby level machines as well as the commercial stuff.
It's actually where I first heard about SeeMe who at the time were crowd funding the H1.

I can't talk to the V3 I'm sure it's much better than the V1 I have was to build. But there is no comparison between even the RMax V1 Kit and the H1 Kit. The H1 was really just a collection of parts based on the Huxley design, with no real thought for how you would turn them into a functional printe...

This is a pretty common issue with autotune results.
Reduce I and D.

Be very careful with SD cards, they don't all work on the arduino based readers like RAMBO. They are required to support an SPI interface and not all cards do, and there is no way to tell from the cards themselves. The interface to the cards on the Rambo is pathetically slow (it's 1 bit serial) so I...

Wow. After my stock hotend meltdown I went with an e3d v6 and haven't had any of these issues. Even with my ghetto temp mount while printing a proper mount! https://goo.gl/photos/AQfVzokkteV1Foyw6 Many people had issues, specifically with PLA and pre V6 E3D hotends, some worked perfectly others wou...

I've used both LinuxCNC and Mach, the only issue with Linux CNC is their poor support for manual tool changes, I always ended up breaking the process into multiple files (1 per tool). Mach 3 has plenty of warts of it's own. I haven't tried Mach 4 so I don't have an opinion.. I'e also not used one of...

I have an XCarve, I'd buy the Shapeoko if I were doing it again, in retrospect I prefer the X-Axis design, the XCarve uses 2 parallel extrusions, which makes it prone to twisting under load. There are a lot of end user hacks to stiffen the axis, but really for the 1000mm version it's just not stiff ...

I think they are 20x60 which is probably total overkill, the printers smaller than a Max 10 inch build plate and I think 12 inch build height. You could certainly use taller extrusions, I have no idea what brand he's using (if I had to guess I'd guess Misumi), I haven't seen it in the flesh yet, but...

The arms are CF rods, I would imagine they flex considerably less than the nylon Max arms. It also is <1/2 the price of a Metal Max, though that didn't really factor into my purchase decision. I know the designer through interactions on the RepRap forums, and I respect his work so I thought I'd supp...

I have one of these arriving tomorrow, I'm interested in how it goes together. It'll be interesting to see how easy it is to get the towers aligned correctly and how much error there is in the extrusion lengths, but the build is supposed to be extremely simple. The top and bottom plates are cast alu...

There are machines doing many colour printing using a Diamond hot end and Duet electronics. See this claimed 300 colour print http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?166,647072 for an example. The main issue seems to be that the Diamond doesn't mix the filaments very well. If we could sort that out, then...

Your probably slightly overextruding, It's somewhat difficult to see from the images you posted. The extra plastic gets pushed around by the nozzle, and it will later hit a high spot. Your better off slightly under extruding as a starting point. It could also be belts not being tight, as the head ch...

Agreed, the E3D looks to be incorrectly assembled in the video.

I'm going to guess you modeled something with a 0.5mm wall and the sliver is doubling up on it. Depending on what you are trying to print, if you just want a thin wall the best way to do that is create a solid object and set the infill to 0 and the perimeters to 1. Thin features are handled differen...

Auto tune I find to be about as useful as a random number generator.
It's usually an OK starting point, but I always end up manually tweaking the results, you can get <1C variation with some messing about.

PID stands for Proportional Integral Derivative, not Power Interval Damping. Everything is based on the difference between the target temperature and the actual (the error), P basically is multiplied by the difference to give a direct relationship, I is based on the integral, in this case that's the...

From the source code it looks like PIDDriveMax is the maximum allowable PWM setting i.e. it clamps the output of the PID calculation.
PIDMax scales the output of the PID calculation i.e. it's some sort of normalization.

Both are 0-255 255 is always on for the PWM pin.

It's far more likely the wiring for the thermistor is shorted, or open than the thermistor being damaged. The most common failure I've seen is people breaking the legs. just disconnect the thermistor from the board and measure the resistance. Most of the time shorts are against the heater block, and...