Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

ER25? You're not mucking about, are you :) Be very interested to see how your spindle assembly turns out. Something I'd love on my machine is to be able to lock the tool spindle (or run it live) and have an A axis that ran like a lathe at speed with some guts behind it, or as a servo drive for a nor...

I dunno, Eaglezsoar... Personally I think they introduce extra steps (ie chances of stuffing it up), time and expense without much advantage for permanent connections like this. I'd rather take a little longer making sure my Phoenix screw connection onto twisted wire was solid, without strays or exp...

The best way to terminate wires connected to the Phoenix connectors like what is used on the Rambo is to terminate the wire with pin connectors that are crimped to the wires with special crimpers. Commonly known as "bootlaces" in the game. We use them for multistrand wire into screw conne...

Jeez, 626pilot: not feeling the love in here! Damn it's tempting. ITS GOT FIVE AXES FOR LESS THAN $30,000!!!! And they've obviously worked hard to get a small machine cheap. But seriously, if I were in that price range and that teensy size were acceptable, I'd be looking at a Taig CNC setup for 3 or...

My impression watching it as it's developed are: It's a cute toy. And expensive for what you get. Very small work envelope, gutless spindle, slow as hell (40ipm will be for rapids, and it's pretty slow for them), gutless motors (NEMA17). Leadscrews? FFS - those figures for accuracy etc are pretty op...

KAS - local electronic supplier. Bought a 300x300mm sheet of single side copper clad blank PCB for about twenty bucks. Threw it in a cnc mill, drilled a 5mm grid of 0.7mm holes (that's a lot of holes) then ran it through the bandsaw and linisher to get a circle and knock the burrs off the copper. Co...

Given that it's both thermistors and it's at room temperature on an idle machine, it kinda rules out interference from motors, heaters and so on.

I'd be pulling out the power and thermistor connectors and having a really close look at them, particularly how well the ground is connected.

Problem is as the top layers cool, they shrink, which pulls them in, which in turn tends to pull up the edges. You can only defeat that by getting sufficient bed adhesion and, if the force exceeds what the glass can cope with, it'll pull chunks out. My original glass bed had this issue, the replacem...

As has been said, it's the proximity of the join on the resistor to the hot area that causes the problems. Most cartridges have a decent length of lead. My printer has heater, fan and thermistor leads all running up a braided sheath which is clipped to the bowden tube. Up by the extruder I use an ol...

Jimustanguitar's got it right I reckon - and I do the same for switching ABS and nylon too. Just whack it up to the temperature of the 'hotter' of the materials and extrude until the colour changes, next step is print :) I run ABS at 255-260º but not on the stock hot end (using an E3D) and it makes ...

Were the three SD cards the same type? I believe "SD" is about as standard as "CAR" or "CHICKEN". There's several different comms protocols they use, particularly on the super duper high speed high capacity cards, and not all SD controllers downscale sufficiently to sui...

Johncoffee, I'm on the other side of the country from my machine for work at the moment or I'd tell you which page the first layer % setting was on. Have a good dig around in the settings, it's there I promise!

Glad to hear you're up and running a bit happier.

Stevolution, I hear you. Mine's settled down now for most of the printing I do. Small parts generally, centred on the bed, which are much easier to get to not lift at the corners etc. But it's far from perfect. Even if it was, the very nature of these machines and what they create leaves layer artef...

To quote from "The IT Crowd": Have you tried turning it (the computer) off and turning it back on again? Usually that error occurs, not because of a dodgy connection, but because some software has opened the COM port in Windoze and not released it. Usually it's the host software that hasn'...

Good call, that worked nicely.

Wow. So much room to grow and collect!

Nope, still wants me to sign into google to see them. :/

The behaviour you're describing is quite normal, but if the head striking a curl is knocking the first loop loose then you need to improve your bed adhesion. I usually find that re-levelling the bed and making sure I have some ABS juice down sorts it out, that normally it happens because the nozzle ...

And in three months' time, need a part that you can't get around the corner (or at all), drag the printer out and wish you'd spent the time this week getting it dialed in so it behaves.

These things can take a lot of dicking around to get right but, once you're there, they behave pretty well.

Printing it with the front face in thedoble's image will mean no supports required. Printing it as shown will need support of some kind. The difference between using the automated support and bridging across a perimeter wall is speed - your printer will spend plenty of time printing support one way,...

Plenty of room for a bigger shed then!

That looks pretty much like the spindle on my X2200L. Heaps of grunt and the ER-20 collet means I can go up to 1/2" tool shanks. It might be a bit heavy for throwing around on the machine in this thread, though. I'd look at the 800W equivalent, probably. http://www.aliexpress.com/item/800w-spin...

Very Cool I have seen an antique tablet with i guess a similar mechanism there was a huge fad for morphing furniture in the 19th century i understand.... it looks to be a very challenging project will you be doing exotic veneers as well? the antique i recall was all in solid oak but it had a lot of...

One point to bear in mind regarding occasionally screwy behaviour with MatterSlice or MatterControl: the guys at Matter Hackers are really responsive. If a print goes runny on you, tell them. Export your MatterControl (which includes the slicer) settings and send that with your part file as you brou...

Biggest problem I have with white prints is that because of their porous and textured finish (fairly unavoidable result of printing) they get real dirty real fast and they are impossible to get clean.

I use the white ABS from doodaddoes.com.au, I believe it's extruded by a Melbourne company.

It's pretty white.

Dunno how it compares to anything else though. Perhaps you could as Isaac for a sample?