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You'll find several threads here on modifying the EZStruder. Basically, the black part is drilled out to allow the bowden tube to reach all the way up to the hobbed gear. End of the tube gets shaped to tuck right in between the gear and bearing, providing full support for the filament. It does requi...

I would just replace the whole thing. with this http://www.filastruder.com/products/lite6" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; or this http://www.tricklaser.com/Prometheus-Metal-Hot-End-PROMHOTEND.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; You will also need a ...

So you've printed yourself a frame... Add: motors propellers propeller adapters (maybe) ESCs (electronic speed control) receiver for aircraft (and transmitter for pilot) multirotor control board (like Naze32) battery and then for FPV use, add onboard camera video transmitter + antenna video receiver...

I'd suspect the bowden tube is getting pinched/kinked/deflected when the print height grows high enough. I found it took some careful study to get the hot end umbilical shaped so that it never snagged on the arms/fans and kept the filament path smooth.

Should ok to unplug = but do not plug in again until print is finished. The USB enumeration that takes place upon connection would cause the RAMBo to reset, killing the print.

On that very large (covers most build of plate diameter) object, make sure your non-printing "travel" movement speed is not more than about 150mm/s.

Slice model in MC. Save gcode on computer. Stick SD card in computer and copy gcode to SD card. Move SD card to printer. If printer was on when SD card was inserted, will automatically open file selection directory. Otherwise go to Select File... It is also possible to export gcode from MC to SD car...

Step 1. Go back and print the first little thing (the one that printed correctly). If it prints correctly again, then you will know the problem is with the other model file or settings when it was sliced. If you can no longer print the first thing correctly, you'll know something about the printer h...

Please post your config.h file.

Now see them at MCM and Newark.

I don't see anything tricky about the STL. It's been a long time since I used MatterControl (since mhackney turned me on to KISSlicer). Does MatterSlice have an adjustment for infill extrusion width? Something is haywire with the infill. What is the print speed you are using for sparse infill? Layer...

Going to have network for file transfer and monitoring anyway.

I've seen lots of cheaper 7" screens for Pi, but best price I've seen on "official" product is $79.95. What/where are you seeing for $60?

The 7" Pi touchscreen looks to be about $80.

I hope somebody writes an app so a $50 Fire tablet can serve as the OctoPi UI.

If another object (test cube) prints ok, problem is likely in the model (STL file) or an issue in slicer settings. Post your STL and gcode files if possible. Picture looks like first layer(s) went down alright and maybe just an infill problem. What kind of filament?

Glacian22, Need to know what board version your RAMBo is. There are differences in how various subsystems (logic, motors, fans, etc.) get their power, so troubleshooting fuses by symptom is version specific. In the meantime, I'd check the following: Continuity of each fuse (I'll suggest removing fro...

Ikarius wrote:In my case it's more than a little noise unfortunately...
On the other hand the little speakers on the RAMBO board stay quiet no matter what i do.
Any ideas on that?

Not aware of any speakers on RAMBo. Beeps come from the LCD display panel.

As I understand it, you should not change the Horizontal Radius. That is the horizontal distance between the pivot on the effector and the pivot on the carriage, when the effector is centered. This value would not change when only the length of the diagonal rod is altered. HR would only change if th...

Need to change temperature sensor type for EXT0 from 97 to 8, per Prometheus instructions.

Have not heard of a new effector to go along with the new cheapskates so I tend to think they are the same dimension between the arms. Perhaps something got assembled incorrectly during this build? As Jim said, pictures would probably reveal the answer.

Most likely problem is blown fuse. Fuse F4 (the 15A automotive type blade fuse) is for the heated bed circuit.

Check those fuses again. One of them should be blown. The RAMBo will likely be fine once the fuse is replaced.

Hot end is not traveling as far as instructed by gcode.

Could be missing steps - maybe reduce the travel speed.
Could be loose pulleys.
Does everything move smoothly and easily - no overly tight belts or carriages?

I would be concerned about the stability of a small diameter effector. The vertical distance between the center of mass of the hot end and the horizontal center line of the effector needs to be a minor fraction of the effector diameter. Reducing the diameter of the effector makes the fraction larger...

Would the effector lift as it swings in a negative angle directly under the tower? I think the firmware is okay with an arm swinging past vertical. As long as the firmware can do the math correctly and nothing mechanical is binding, the effector will remain level. The negative impact of moving the ...