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ms-logo.png A few months ago, I went to a 3d Hubs meetup and found out there is a filament company called MakeShaper that's located in Sanford NC, just a few towns over from where I live. Naturally, I was interested - I've been on the hunt on-and-off for a quality American-made filament source, and...

I doubt the nylon has anything to do with it in the way you suggest. What seems most likely is that you accidentally loosened up the heater connection as you were removing the nylon glob.

The thermistor is probably fine if it's still reading plausible temperatures.

The hack voids the warranty, does it not?

Awesome, glad you solved it!

Have you looked at the gcode to see if it's setting the bed too high? What does the LCD say the target is when the bed is heating?

I also wonder the same things.

If you do build an enclosure, at least it won't HURT anything. But if it will be helpful, who knows.

I can post my settings when I get back home. Yours are pretty reasonable though. The only thing I see is that your minimum travel is a bit high, I think mine is 3mm.

It depends on the filament but I'd up the temp to 240ish and increase your retract. If memory serves, I think you can't retract PLA very var before it starts jamming; ABS doesn't have that issue so much. Maybe try retract in the 5-6mm range, that's what works for me.

Temperature 280?! That is wayyyyy too hot for most designs. Try 260 at most, or 245 is probably more reasonable generally.

I think a lot of people that have success printing with ABS (myself included) have sealed enclosures for their printers. That really helps on the warping / delamination front.

Yeah, I should've explicitly asked if the light turns on when you purposefully turn the bed heat on.

How is it possible that the bed is heating if the light isn't on?

Are your cheapskates nice and tight to the towers?

At what point in the video do you show how you installed the heater? I skipped the part where you clean the hotend with the stove, otherwise I watched the whole thing. Is this the type of heater you're talking about? http://www.amazon.com/Kats-24100-Watt-Universal-Heater/dp/B000I8VL3O" onclick=...

When in doubt, leave a lot of slack wire. Then you can wrap it up around some post or some printed frame to tidy things up.

Are you just asking about the v6 versus the v6 lite?

If you wind up getting either one, you won't need a threaded thermistor.

By the way what do you model your design with? We tend to use OpenSCAD. I started learning on OpenSCAD and it's a really great tool. However lately I've been preferring DesignSpark Mechanical. It's straightforward to use, powerful, free, and did I mention straightforward? OpenSCAD can do some reall...

You don't need to have a printer connected, you just have to have one configured. It asks for connection details and such, but if you have no interest in ever actually connecting, the settings won't matter.

It looks like it's an archive within an archive, extract them both and run the shell script or just install the deb file. I think the syntax is dpkg -i whatever.deb

Oh gotcha, I see it now, thanks!

I'm still seeing the traditional carriages on the main page, and also on the Max's product page.

This looks cool, but what is it I'm looking at? Is it just a new cheapskate carriage? Part of a Max v3? The final piece of the Eris puzzle?

Travel speed, you said you have it at 300, 150 is more reasonable for large-footprint prints.

Yeah, when any of the steppers misses a step, you're exactly right - your calibration is hosed. The carriages are no longer in the position the printer thinks they are, and anything can happen. Print in midair, collide with the print, collide with the tower... until next time the printer re-homes, t...

If you think it's bowden friction that's the problem, you can oil the filament with canola oil. Works wonders.

I don't know, but I'm interested if there's any way to slice it, either directly or by extracting the model from the PDF somehow.