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Also note that some firmware (I know that Marlin does this) limits your retraction speed even if you have firmware retraction set to "off". Note that hitting "retract" in pronterface was NOT being limited by this firmware limit. Totally crazy, but I verified it twice. I was runni...

I printed this exact item last week in ABS. The secret for small parts is to waft a small weak fan across the build plate. Yes, even for ABS. I have a small USB powered fan that I set up a good 30 cm from the edge of the plate, on low power. You just want a very gentle breeze across the plate, not a...

It's not perfect, but should be enough to get started. IMG_5254.jpeg Here are my settings. Note that it helps to have a very weak fan wafting a gentle breeze across the surface, when dealing with such small objects. Screen Shot 2016-02-02 at 4.09.16 pm.png Screen Shot 2016-02-02 at 4.09.36 pm.png Sc...

This is something that I'm starting to get more and more concerned about. Thanks for posting your ideas and experiences.

I just bought some fans to make some of these:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:125264" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Apparently they work well.

30 minutes? Cripes! I've used a heat gun with good effect previously, but there are other ways to make your heatbed get hot quicker: Increase power supply voltage Ensure wiring is up to snuff (16 ga or thicker, preferably silicone insulated multistrand) Insulate the bottom with cardboard/cork Insula...

Which model are you printing? I do most of my prints in ABS at 0.1mm height, I'm getting quite nice prints now if I do say so myself
I can share settings with you if you can provide the material used, and the model.

Hmmmm. I tried the birch plywood last night, and again the nylon peeled itself off after the first few layers. It seems that Nylon has even more of a warp-tendency than ABS. I find that hard to believe, but there you go. I'll try the PVA solution on top of the plywood next (don't really want to put...

Hmmmm. I tried the birch plywood last night, and again the nylon peeled itself off after the first few layers. It seems that Nylon has even more of a warp-tendency than ABS. I find that hard to believe, but there you go. I'll try the PVA solution on top of the plywood next (don't really want to put ...

I tried printing some nylon last night on my PEI bed. At 105 degrees bed and 240 nozzle, it stuck nicely. Until the second layer that is... Nylon looks to be a lot more fussy with regard to temperature than the other filaments I've tried. I have some R/C modelling birch plywood, it's really thin, an...

For what it's worth, I run 105 degrees first layer temp, then go down to 100 degrees for subsequent layers. The filament goes down at 0.2 layer height at 250 degrees for the first layer, then 240 degrees and 0.1mm layer height after that. This works exceptionally well for me. The models I print have...

You might have a broken hot end heater, or wires that go to the hot end heater. Inspect carefully, and measure the resistance of your hot end heater.

Just a well meaning suggestion, you may want to pick up a smaller nozzle for this small work. Once tuned in I think it will greatly improve your already great prints. Hmm I have 0.3mm and 0.2mm nozzles lying around ready to try... Have you tried printing detail like this with smaller nozzles? I've ...

As Run DMC once said, it's Tricky, tricky tricky. Temperature control is paramount, also I found that I had to lower the bridging flow ratio to 0.25 in slic3r to get his eyes looking halfway decent. Screen Shot 2016-01-12 at 2.21.02 pm.png This was printed with a 0.4mm nozzle in ABS, using 0.1mm lay...

What's your infill speed? Is it significantly higher than your external perimeter speed? If so then there's your problem. I've been chasing similar issues on my delta, and tracked it down to the speeds being too different. A high infill speed results in high pressure in the bowden cable, which leads...

I've done this before in slic3r, easy enough to do.

What layer height are you using? What slicer?

I use 250 degrees for ABS to get good layer bonding. It looks to me like your Z calibration, extruder calibration, or infill settings might be off.

Guaranteed your steps per mm is slightly off. I had the same problem. Get your steps per mm exactly right by using a digital caliper, and measuring how far your carriages move with a vertical movement of 50mm or so. Then measure your diagonal arms as accurately as you can (between centres) and plug ...

This might be a stupid question, but I've never heard of anyone using 5V to power the heatbed before... you're not doing that are you? Everyone uses 12V or 24V (Check what your heatbed is rated for).

Which way is your hot end fan blowing? I had a problem with certain long thin parts curling up when printing in ABS, which turned out to be the exhaust from my hot end fan blowing on the part. I put a shroud underneath the fan, and reoriented those parts to print at 90 degrees to the exhaust directi...

Looks like lots of room inside for all sorts of goodies. One thing I'd mention is to make sure that you don't support the VTx antenna just by the brass fitting on the end. Support it by using a cable tie around the coax of the antenna. This means that when you crash, the antenna bends instead of bre...

Ditch the spinners and use nyloc nuts to hold your props on. Those spinners are usually horribly unbalanced and don't stay on.

Apart from that it's looking good

Buy a sheet of PEI. Best investment you'll make for your printer.

Can't you just create a GCode file to extrude a certain amount of filament?

ie:

Not sure if it helps, but I find I have to home first before extruding when I first turn the machine on.

+1 on bumping up your retraction length.

Mine was set to 4mm, and I had wicked spiderwebs all over my parts. I bumped mine to 5mm and all is well with the world (mine is a bowden though).