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You could also potentially just upload the hex files for the firmware using the Atmel toolchain, or I believe that Arduino packs along some of the actual programming utilities with their IDE. A pre-compiled blob should work just fine unless Arduino is really messing up their toolchain. That said, if...

The power connector is replaceable. I believe it's this one. You should get ferrules and a crimper, and install them on the ends of the wires. Do not solder or tin the wires.

Thanks for the insights. My opinion would be that it would be easier to change the fan in the existing power supply. I might look into replacing the PSU fan. The problem with doing that is knowing if you still got enough cooling going on. Since the PSU doesn't have any temp readout's there is no wa...

Yes, you can test a thermistor with a multimeter. There are a few things to check. Make sure it is not shorting to the edges of the hole, that the solder joints are in good shape, and that the thermistor itself reads approximately 100K at room temperature.

It depends on your use case and failure modes. If slipping is a problem for you, a filament monitor can help a lot. Same with jamming. A simple switch only detects breaks, and running out of filament. Now, for say, a college using cuts off of spools, a switch handles most failure modes I've seen (as...

It looks like SeemeCNC may be using an older version of Duet web control. It's at least before 1.20, given the limit of 6 extruders was increased to nine for the Duet wifi then. If you were to update your Duet firmware, as well as Duet web control, such a column was released in 1.19a, released in se...

It sounds like your problem is one of adhesion now, and potentially Z-hop, or some other issue. If you could, check the first layer height in CURA, as well as the Z-hop (Z-lift) settings. It may also be that your bed temperature isn't great for your PLA (Is your bed temp setting different from the f...

If it's about a quarter inch off the plate while printing that G-code, it likely means that something is causing the probing sequence to give a bad calibration. Is the web interface showing a Z-position of 0 at this quarter inch deviation? what does the G-code console contain from startup until you ...

With the web interface open, there should be a box in the upper left corner that has the head position, as well as the Z-probe status (if the Artemis is using stock DWC, which I believe it is). What does it indicate the head position is? Does this change when you home it? what is the Z-probe status,...

I'll take it in order as much as practical: Kossel is a semi-generic name for a family of designs using an almost entirely aluminum extrusion frame to build a linear delta (There are also rotation, and extension/compression delta's, but those are more likely to see use in pick and place machines and...

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SMIRKB4/ref=pe_2518790_191490970_em_1p_0_ti and https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HPRYIL8/ref=pe_62810_168879190_em_1p_0_ti for ferrules and crimpers. IIRC, they come with a paper insert that says what gauges each one goes with, but the general rule of th...

Hey Scintilla. welcome to the forums. I'd like to point out that while this is a forum for delta printers, it's one for the printers of a specific manufacturer primarily. So while we can try to help, this forum in general won't necessarily have lots of people with Kossel's. Additionally, you're sayi...

It's a combination of the two. The drivers dictate the frequency to a degree, and the build quality can affect the whine from the coils. A Duet with similar drivers to the Rambo (IE a .8.5), won't have much noise improvement, but the newer trinamic drivers that the Wifi and Ethernet use are much qui...

The Max V2 is pretty easy to change over to Duet. I designed a board mount that is drop in with plenty of cooling fans, available for download here Should be either printable or laser cut (That's how I made mine). I also don't think it's likely adding another printer would get you tossed from the ho...

So, with the Rostock max 2, you can take the LCD panel off, then pull the controller mount forward to release it, and if you have slack in the wiring, remove it. Also, of note is that Allegro, and the majority of the SMD stepper drivers, are not designed with a usable thermal interface at the top of...

Can you post the STL or G-code? It may very well be that the slicer has a max radius setting, which may be the issue (If it's mattercontrol, which it looks like, IIRC, it does have one). It can also be that the slicer is choosing to ignore an errored, too thin, or otherwise unprintable area. This lo...

I've definitely done it, and more than once. The easy, and kinda crap route is to just cut the end of the old one cleanly, then feed another one in after it. The slightly less crap option is to wait for a section of infill or something else less critical, and pull the old length, then replace it. If...

Welcome to the forums Mike. I look forward to seeing any pictures of your build process (Admittedly, the builds have been getting more streamlined, so there's less reason to take pictures of the process), and seeing what you produce. What are you interested in making with it, since some of us have a...

https://repables.com/r/805/
At Repables.com, from JJ at SeemeCNC. Hope that's the one you need.

Except I'm pretty sure he's got an old style Seeme hotend with the PEEK section, given he mentioned changing out power resistors for a ceramic heater.

Easiest upgrade is to an M3 threaded thermistor, such as this one. It's not exactly one I've personally used, but it is from the successor company to the folks who made the ones I've used. Alternatively, get an E3D hotend (or an SE300 or similar from Seeme), so that you can keep nozzles available an...

And as far as the melamine itself, I believe it may be a Dakota product, as they are pretty much the only company I've found selling black double sided melamine.

McMaster-Carr has a decent selection of 3/32 balls, Steel, Stainless, Carbide, and Ceramic. The last two are rally expensive,,,, almost 9 bucks for 5 balls. If you know what you want, and need more than like 5-20, general rule of thumb is to order from a specialty supplier instead of MMC. I've paid...

I'd turn the retract length down to 2mm or so, and play with retract speeds down around 10-25mm/s

Welcome to the forums Per. It's great hearing that you're doing well with the printer, and we look forward to seeing more from you.