Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

Are you printing off of the SD card, or over the USB cable?

You state that the old hotend heater doesn not come on automatically,,,, Does it come on when the RamBo calls for heat?

When Mosfets fail, they normally fail "On", causing the heater to be on all the time.

warm the hotend to around 200 C, then re tighten the nozzle before you print.
the aluminum heat block expands more than the nozzle, and heat break, which causes the nozzle to loosen and leak.

They have all appeared to flock to facebook,,,,,, Not a very good repository for specific problems and solutions.

Let's start with what are your current retraction settings?

I would try printing with a brim attached to the print,,, possibly as high as 3 layer thick.

Gene has a video on youtube showing how to replace the resistors with a heater cartridge in the hotend. Myself, I installed two,,,,, to keep the hater block balanced.

I was going to post that that you need to tighten the power supply connections at the RamBo, but you say you've already done that.

A new hotend? And after you installed a new hotend you started to have a problem?

It appears that there is more traffic by SeeMeCNC people on their Facebook page than there is here. You might get a faster response there.

Nice looking storefront. Except for the "Currently out of stock" items!!!!!

I sent a request in for a bed platform for my Folgertech FT-5 R2, a month ago, and haven't heard anything back.

I bought the IWISS 28B, Ratcheting crimpers off of Amazon. They work really well. http://a.co/jiewv7g

I've had to trim the end of the ptfe back a little bit so that the connector would have fresh material to bite into, otherwise I would have a hockey puck form causing my jam. I use a heat break from my V2 hotend, and a razor blade to trim the tube square so it seals.

No, there isn't, but installing a new hotend isn't hard,,, That is if you're installing a stock hotend.

Even better, your question is looks to be better suited in the Ramps section of the forum,,,, http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewforum.php?f=30

My take away from watching that clip is that it will not perform the same as the Duet 2, and tailored more for the OEMs,,, But I nominate you to get back with us on your impressions. The Duet 3 on the other hand,,,,,

My opinion would be that it would be easier to change the fan in the existing power supply.

For print leveling to work, the controller needs to have a sensor to notify it that the nozzle has touched the bed. What you show does not have a sensor. The Arms the previous owner put on appear to be by Trick Laser. He shows 300 mm for the arms he currently sells,,,, You have the old style, but th...

Unless the previous owner added a sensor of some sorts, print leveling will not work,,, and you would have to adjust it manually. Post some pictures, it may help identify what you got there.

McMaster-Carr, One stop shopping and I can get it next day.

McMaster-Carr has a decent selection of 3/32 balls, Steel, Stainless, Carbide, and Ceramic. The last two are rally expensive,,,, almost 9 bucks for 5 balls.

Here's the picture for the springs,,,, see my other thread for the McMaster-Carr part number,,,, and I had to snip the ends to change them from a loop, to a hook. Also attached is the eeprom file,,,,, I think that's where I made the changes for the auto calibration? change .txt, to .epr when you dow...

Switching from the RamBo to the Duet for the big printers, prolly stubbed someone's toes,,, and perhaps minimized the price break SeeMeCNC got for the Mini RamBo. DC42 will just have to come up with a mini Duet,,,, or just run the Eris on an umbilical cord from a controller brick,,,,, put the powers...

I'll post up a picture of them tonight. And I'll try and find my firmware file for it as well. Once I took out the slop with the springs, I had to make some changes, I think to the sensor sensitivity?, so that the auto calibration worked.